Thanks Blake.

Ok... I think this is the final draft of mods to come...

Before mods: @ the fw: 260hp & 302 ft/lbs
@ the rw: 230hP & 280 ft/lbs
Mods:
* K&N air filter & intake silencer cut + 5HP
* Comp Cams - Xtreme Energy (mild street/strip) + 15HP
* Exhaust - Single chamber Flowmaster's + 5HP
* Royal Purple motor, tranny & rear end fluids + 3HP
* BBK 1701 or 1703 75mm TB & C&L Plenum + 8HP
* Densecharger TB pipe + 2HP

After mods: @ the fw: 298 hp
@ the rw: 253 hp (fwhp - 15% drivetrain loss(45hp))

I know I used slightly high numbers.. I understand that each item one at a time will not give it's listed hp gain... however the numbers above should represent the estimated hp after ALL is done :)

Am I more accurate with my numbers now? (explicitone) hehe

And yes I know there are a lot of if's but's and maybe's involved... but the ending rwhp should be somewhere close to that. Right?

Should be the perfect mix of everything working together smoothly, and good planing for the future. (So I wont be on ebay selling crap I didnt need.. haha)

Thanks again :)

Jess:

I think those numbers are right on the money. If you are high, not by much. (so close to the magical 300 hp number).

What did you decide to do about gears? I forget.

Not gonna do gears.
Dont want an even shorter lasting 1st gear. And I like where the rpms are while doing 70 on the freeway :)

I think all those mods will give me enough pull in the low rpms through 4th & 5th

Thats all I was after... just a bit more freeway passing power (without down shifting)

And I still dont get what "power induced" means..

Can someone please give a link to do some reading on the PI and non-PI mod motors

thank you :)

QUestion about the C&L. I've been trying to get to the bottom of this.

If I have a stock intake... and I had the 75M TB plenum ... should I also change the 'plumbing' and MAF for the total effect, or will the plenum work on it's own?

What do you guys think a Mac Power Chamber w/ HiPo Cats and Flowmaster 40 series give for extra power over stock? Looks like I am gaining about 1.5MPH on my traps.

If you look above you'll see that you should change out the pipe that runs from the throttle body to the maf.

check out densecharger.com and click on "ordering" then at the top click on "here"

You'll see the pipe you need there.
that'll give you a good gain.

The larger TB and plenum wont give you all that it can until you put a larger pipe in there too :)

But no you do not need a bigger MAF sensor.

Ok. So if I do the whole intake. ...and I have a good portion of the exaust done... - i.e. I am getting unrestricted flow of air, should I consider some bigger injectors? Or are those really more for Force Induction application?

No, you dont need bigger injectors.

Only when you get up to around 280-300 rear wheel horsepower
thats far far away from your stock 220 at the rear wheels :)
And then you'll need to dyno tune a chip in order to use larger injectors.

I am going through the same steps you are going through :)

Have you read through this whole thread?
Because the latest info is a gathering of all the input of a bunch of people (in a lot of threads) who have already done all the bolt on's and learned all the lessons for us.. haha

I was a newbie a few weeks ago and now I've learned so much from these guys!

Yah. I've used more information from modulardepot (*or something like that).

...but I know I always get straight talk from the boys here at the 'works.

FYI. On your list you mention some Flowmasters - alone... they don't give you anything for extra power.

Heres the other part.

I plan on getting pulleys, timing adjuster & the C&L 75MM TB. I already have cat back exaust. (Are Long Tube headers worth it for the price?)

Would you guys get the Timing Adjuster or the Diablo Delta Chip (specifically if I get 3.73 in the near future?)

So with those mods... I should be approaching the 270RWHP? no?

If you're planning on gearing it, then go with a chip for the timing, it'll also correct your speedo. So get the gears done before having the chip burned.. either that or you can just have them include the gearing changes, and then your speedo will be a little off until you gear it for real.

And the exhaust does add hp.. it's dyno proven, especially when there are other mods... having a better than stock exhaust brings out more potential power from the other mods :)

It all adds up.. lots of little small things complimenting eachother in the end :)

And these guys are gonna tell you not to waste time on 3.73 gears, go straight to 4.10's (I dont agree because I am not gearing mine... lol)

As far as headers go... the long tubes are the only choice, shorties arent worth buying, for power adders anyhow. They have nothing over stock manifolds. So, yes.. long tubes are worth the money.

Personally I dont think pollies are a good idea... It's just a matter of personal opinion though. I'd rather keep my accessaries spinning at the correct speeds. AND if you ever supercharge it you'll have to remove the ud pollies.

Supercharger might be in my future, so thats another reason I decided against it.

You said that your gonna get the 75mm TB, but you didnt mention a Plenum... I would get the C&L Plenum, and the BBK or Accufab TB... best combos, per modulardepots plenum showdown results, and all the input here from the racing guys :)

Also... are you sure you want to time it, with gas prices like this??? You'll have to run 92+ octane, you know that right?
so that is an ongoing charge everytime you fill up the tank... I just dont know if that gain in hp is worth it.

but then again.. I dont know the details of how much you are gonna time it, and I dont dont how much you'll gain from that.

Oh yeah... and that densecharger pipe I told you about... well C&L makes one too, I dont know which is better, but they're cheap and both are better flowing than the stock one.

depending on how much timing you're planning on giving it.. my guess is you'll be around 250 - 260rwhp

same as me... with out the timing! :)

(this is funny, I feel like I am standing at a party listening to a conversation. Then, at this point is where I butt in).

Hey, just a point of clarification. If you want gears AND to advance your timing to run high octane, but are concerned about fuel prices then go with a chip or a programmer. The programmer will allow you to make changes whenever you want. If you get the right chip, you can have multiple programs. I have three settings for my chip. There is a toggle switch that I mounted by my cigarette lighter:

1 - Totally stock!

2 - Programmed for my mods, timing is advanced, and speedo is adjusted for gears.

3 - Same as #2, but timing is not advanced. Can run 87 Octane.

If I ever need to make changes, I can send it back and have it reburned. (for a fee, of course).

I went with 3.73 mostly because I plan on adding nitrous in a few months.

Lizard King - good to see you back around here. I remember you from when you had the green car ripping off stock 1/4 times that nobody could believe. I was coming off owning a 5.0 Mustang and had just bought my 1st '97 T-bird 4.6L and was new to the whole modular game, so I trolled around the modular forum more than anything, never really posting. But needless to say, I remember that car and your driving skills being talked about all over the web.

The pulleys are going to give you power, period. Not 13rwhp like the old 5.0's, basically because ford is getting more agressive with their own pulley specs, but power non-the less. So for the price, they are a great bang for the buck. You won't have any charging problems or anything. Worst case senario, driving at night time in the rain with the stereo and A/C blasting, you might bog down the alt at idle, but thats about it.
I personally agree with the other guys and would let the timing be controlled with a chip or tune. Right now I think the best game in town is SuperChips Custom Tuning. This isn't the plain Superchips thats still around, this is 100% better. Either hook up with them for a dyno tune, or check out their stuff HERE.
As stated, Long tubes are really the only option as far as headers go. Now whether or not they are worth it depends on what you want out of your car. Thats up to you.
The 75mm TB should be matched with an aftermarket upper plenum.

For what it's woth, I wish I had gone with a custom programmer. I got cheap. Superchips makes the best based on my research and Diablo has one for the cobra only. But supposed to have one soon for the rest of us.

I've ran at multiple tracks in my vert. On everything from street tires to slicks, w/ only a helmet.

My car is a consistent 13 second car also, and a vert to boot....

Never been asked to tech, or leave.

Stock, I ran a 14.5

-Will

TARZAN... will you please post all the mods you've done??

A 13 second car is awesome! And posting the specs will help us who are just starting out with the mods :)

Thanks!

I ran 14.1 stock in my vert, and now it's running 13.5s@101-102

GTvert... whats mods have you done? to be running 13.5's :)

So far I have :

Hypertech Power programmer
Steeda Underdrives
4.10s
bbk o/r xpipe
magnaflow catback
full syntehetics(reaching, I know)
pro 5.0
some cheap Cai I got off ebay for like $40

that's all for now, I have a two wheels like yours that I bought to put some drag radials on, but I'm hoping to get them for my birthday in a couple of weeks so I have to wait I guess.I'm also getting ready to put a new plenum and tb on. Have you gotten to the track yet? Practice is the most important part of good 1/4 mile times.:D

I noticed you have the same interior that I have, did you consider white face gauges?I can take a pic and post it if you want.I know it's not going to hepl performance, but is does break up the interior a little bit.