Subframe connectors

Try Me · 11-06-2001, 04:36 PM

I rodered MAC subframes - any comments on the brand i chose?

Also when they are installed, (they will be welded in) does the car have to be "loaded" as in on the ground of is it ok for the car to be on a hoist?

Try Me · 11-06-2001, 07:37 PM

So, does anyone know the answer to this question?

91LX2Bfast · 11-07-2001, 08:53 PM

I would assume you would want it done while the car is "loaded." Most shops should have a lift that you pull onto.
But I am only responding because nobody else has. I would put subs on my Tbird, but its heavy enough already and I was trying to think of ways to save weight, lol.

------------------
1997 Thunderbird 4.6L: Dynomax cat-back, MN-12 perf. offroad downtubes and Y-pipe w/ Magnaflow resonator, 80mm MAF with cone filter, B&M trans cooler, Inject-Tech chip, MAC U/D pulleys, KVR front brake upgrade, SVO 70mm TB. 15.2 @ 91 w/ just chip and MAF. 14's next time to the track.

No Longer own: 91 LX 5.0L 5 spd

JRowlette · 11-07-2001, 09:31 PM

I would recommend having the car loaded and in its natural position. The guy who welded my steeda subs on lifted my car up and set it back down on blocks about 2 feet tall and then welded them in.
When a car is on a lift, it could be slightly twisted and not straight as it is when it's sitting on the tires. The unibodies are prone to that, as I'm sure you know.
As to your other question, I don't know anybody who has MAC subframes, I have the Steeda's w/x-braces and I am very happy. It made a huge difference in my car.

97snakedriver · 11-08-2001, 01:13 AM

You deffently want the weight of the car on the wheels and you deffently want to weld the subframe connectors in. Bolt-ins will eventually work loose as the body flexes. The Mustang chassis is very flexy...

If its not too late check out Maximum Motorsports full legnth subframe connectors:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/

Subframes connectors are pretty darn cheap really (and sorely needed), might as well do it right the first time around.

11-08-2001, 08:02 PM

If you want the full court press on sub-frame connectors, you should have the frame squared prior to installation. Install the connectors on the car in its fully loaded condition, running gear, stereo, driver, half tank of gas, spare and so on.

My personal experience is having the franes installed on a loaded car makes sense, but Ive never had any problems installing them on a car without checking the frame first. Its your choice. I can see where installing frame connectors on a tweaked chassis would ensure screwy handling, but if you don't suspect the frame, you can probably save yourself $200-$500 dollars to have it checked.

11-06-2001, 04:36 PM	#1
Try Me Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 465	Subframe connectors I rodered MAC subframes - any comments on the brand i chose? Also when they are installed, (they will be welded in) does the car have to be "loaded" as in on the ground of is it ok for the car to be on a hoist?

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Vert Subframe Connectors? Help?	xxxBlakexxx	Modular Madness	3	02-08-2004 12:41 AM
Subframe connectors for a vert!	93yello1	Windsor Power	3	05-28-2002 03:34 PM
Which Subframe Connectors?	90LxDroptop	Windsor Power	1	01-26-2002 04:27 PM
A bottom-line questioning topic on subframe connectors.	SlowStang2	Windsor Power	3	08-15-2001 05:39 PM
full length or standard length subframe connectors?	84stangLX	Windsor Power	4	04-23-2001 03:48 PM

11-06-2001, 07:37 PM	#2
Try Me Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 465	So, does anyone know the answer to this question?

11-07-2001, 08:53 PM	#3
91LX2Bfast Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Warrington, PA Posts: 694	I would assume you would want it done while the car is "loaded." Most shops should have a lift that you pull onto. But I am only responding because nobody else has. I would put subs on my Tbird, but its heavy enough already and I was trying to think of ways to save weight, lol. ------------------ 1997 Thunderbird 4.6L: Dynomax cat-back, MN-12 perf. offroad downtubes and Y-pipe w/ Magnaflow resonator, 80mm MAF with cone filter, B&M trans cooler, Inject-Tech chip, MAC U/D pulleys, KVR front brake upgrade, SVO 70mm TB. 15.2 @ 91 w/ just chip and MAF. 14's next time to the track. No Longer own: 91 LX 5.0L 5 spd

11-07-2001, 09:31 PM	#4
JRowlette Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Bowling Green, KY Posts: 95	I would recommend having the car loaded and in its natural position. The guy who welded my steeda subs on lifted my car up and set it back down on blocks about 2 feet tall and then welded them in. When a car is on a lift, it could be slightly twisted and not straight as it is when it's sitting on the tires. The unibodies are prone to that, as I'm sure you know. As to your other question, I don't know anybody who has MAC subframes, I have the Steeda's w/x-braces and I am very happy. It made a huge difference in my car.

11-08-2001, 01:13 AM	#5
97snakedriver Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Blacksburg, VA Posts: 1,526	You deffently want the weight of the car on the wheels and you deffently want to weld the subframe connectors in. Bolt-ins will eventually work loose as the body flexes. The Mustang chassis is very flexy... If its not too late check out Maximum Motorsports full legnth subframe connectors: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/ Subframes connectors are pretty darn cheap really (and sorely needed), might as well do it right the first time around.

11-08-2001, 08:02 PM	#6
mleboeuf Guest Posts: n/a	If you want the full court press on sub-frame connectors, you should have the frame squared prior to installation. Install the connectors on the car in its fully loaded condition, running gear, stereo, driver, half tank of gas, spare and so on. My personal experience is having the franes installed on a loaded car makes sense, but Ive never had any problems installing them on a car without checking the frame first. Its your choice. I can see where installing frame connectors on a tweaked chassis would ensure screwy handling, but if you don't suspect the frame, you can probably save yourself $200-$500 dollars to have it checked.