Subframes???

StoplightWarrior · 01-22-2001, 03:17 AM

I'm thinking about ordering steeda's subframe connectors for my stang. I have 2 questions. First, will I even notice a difference in handling? Also, how tough is the install? Are they strictly bolt on, or do I have to weld em in? Thanks.

------------------
Black 2000 GT
Magnaflow Catback, K&N

97snakedriver · 01-22-2001, 03:58 AM

Yes. And you CAN bolt them in (with some drilling) but don't. You can get a muffler shop to weld them in for very cheap. Weld ins will work MUCH better.

The only things to consider is that they will pretty much preclude a lowered car with a side exhaulst. And check out Maximum Motorsports' and Griggs' subframes first. Depending on your goals the Steedas are fine, just pointing out the alternatives. Subframes are wonderful for the price.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/ http://www.griggsracing.com/

Stefan · 01-22-2001, 09:23 AM

Hey 97 Snakedriver,
You said a lowered car with side exhaust doesn't work with subframes but what about just side exhaust? My car isn't lowered and I wondered if there were any subframe kits out there that would work with my setup. I have the Borla Rebel 500 side exhaust that you said was pretty much like the kar kraft setup without the skirts. Just curious.

------------------
66 Tahoe Turquoise Coupe
Laser Red 96GT Ragtop
Both are slow but easy on the eyes!

97snakedriver · 01-22-2001, 12:20 PM

Subframe connectors will cost you roughly an inch (depending on brand) of clearence where the pipes come out. If you have enough room to move the pipes down that far then you'd be okay. Really subframes don't completely preclude side exhaulsts, but ground clearence becomes a serious issue.

Dirk · 01-22-2001, 03:36 PM

I'm also thinking about subframes.
I think the Steeda subs are one of the best, because of the round tube design, but I think I'll go with the Kenny Brown subs. They are the square tube design and I hope the car won't be as low with them.

------------------

SMOKE · 01-23-2001, 06:20 AM

97snakedriver is on the money with the side exhaust/sub frame issue.

That's why I went with the V6 Sport body kit to keep welded subs in.

Clearance does become an issue.

StoplightWarrior Check into the others he mentioned. They may fit your application. I swear by STEEDA in most things but there are options out there.
Go weld ins... Better.

Stefan · 01-23-2001, 09:09 AM

That's cool. In all honesty I probably can do well without them as it's not a track car and I don't drive it real hard on the street. It's more of a show car although I want to give it some bite when I can afford it. I'll just concentrate my suspension and real power mods when I get a Cobra.
Thanks for the info.

------------------
66 Tahoe Turquoise Coupe
Laser Red 96GT Ragtop
Both are slow but easy on the eyes!

StoplightWarrior · 01-23-2001, 06:46 PM

Thanks for the help guys. If I do get them, I'll be sure to weld em in.

Mustang92 · 01-24-2001, 09:20 AM

Just a side note for those of you looking at sub frames. I've seen the round tube design rip off the dog ears that are welded to them. The square tube design seems to be structurally better and off more support. Just my opinion based on my past experience.

------------------
00 GT, MAC Offroad H, Pullies, 4.10’s, Flows, UPR shifter, subframes, LCA’s, air filter, Weld Pro Stars, Nitto DR’s 13.19@103.86 (1.82 60ft) 244.6 RWHP
M/M 100
88 LX coupe X-FHP, 12pt Cage, UPR K-member, 31 spline rear, full spool…

01-22-2001, 03:17 AM	#1
StoplightWarrior Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Nor-Cal Posts: 1,311	Subframes??? I'm thinking about ordering steeda's subframe connectors for my stang. I have 2 questions. First, will I even notice a difference in handling? Also, how tough is the install? Are they strictly bolt on, or do I have to weld em in? Thanks. ------------------ Black 2000 GT Magnaflow Catback, K&N

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Help with subframes	Rocket 99GT	Modular Madness	1	02-13-2002 05:18 PM
Welding in subframes and removing front sway bar . What should I run??	Dark_5.0	Windsor Power	4	10-27-2001 03:06 AM
Mac Subframes and Control Arms??	jrfaraci	Windsor Power	1	07-08-2001 07:55 PM
Round tube subframes for 87-93?	Mad Horse	Windsor Power	7	04-02-2001 09:00 PM
bolt-on subframes	stanger8172	Windsor Power	2	02-16-2001 11:47 AM

01-22-2001, 03:58 AM	#2
97snakedriver Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Blacksburg, VA Posts: 1,526	Yes. And you CAN bolt them in (with some drilling) but don't. You can get a muffler shop to weld them in for very cheap. Weld ins will work MUCH better. The only things to consider is that they will pretty much preclude a lowered car with a side exhaulst. And check out Maximum Motorsports' and Griggs' subframes first. Depending on your goals the Steedas are fine, just pointing out the alternatives. Subframes are wonderful for the price. http://www.maximummotorsports.com/ http://www.griggsracing.com/

01-22-2001, 09:23 AM	#3
Stefan Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Manhattan, KS 66502 Posts: 599	Hey 97 Snakedriver, You said a lowered car with side exhaust doesn't work with subframes but what about just side exhaust? My car isn't lowered and I wondered if there were any subframe kits out there that would work with my setup. I have the Borla Rebel 500 side exhaust that you said was pretty much like the kar kraft setup without the skirts. Just curious. ------------------ 66 Tahoe Turquoise Coupe Laser Red 96GT Ragtop Both are slow but easy on the eyes!

01-22-2001, 12:20 PM	#4
97snakedriver Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Blacksburg, VA Posts: 1,526	Subframe connectors will cost you roughly an inch (depending on brand) of clearence where the pipes come out. If you have enough room to move the pipes down that far then you'd be okay. Really subframes don't completely preclude side exhaulsts, but ground clearence becomes a serious issue.

01-22-2001, 03:36 PM	#5
Dirk Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Dortmund, Germany Posts: 1	I'm also thinking about subframes. I think the Steeda subs are one of the best, because of the round tube design, but I think I'll go with the Kenny Brown subs. They are the square tube design and I hope the car won't be as low with them. ------------------

01-23-2001, 06:20 AM	#6
SMOKE Old School ROUSH Join Date: Nov 1999 Location: Stockbridge, GA Posts: 531	97snakedriver is on the money with the side exhaust/sub frame issue. That's why I went with the V6 Sport body kit to keep welded subs in. Clearance does become an issue. StoplightWarrior Check into the others he mentioned. They may fit your application. I swear by STEEDA in most things but there are options out there. Go weld ins... Better.

01-23-2001, 09:09 AM	#7
Stefan Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Manhattan, KS 66502 Posts: 599	That's cool. In all honesty I probably can do well without them as it's not a track car and I don't drive it real hard on the street. It's more of a show car although I want to give it some bite when I can afford it. I'll just concentrate my suspension and real power mods when I get a Cobra. Thanks for the info. ------------------ 66 Tahoe Turquoise Coupe Laser Red 96GT Ragtop Both are slow but easy on the eyes!

01-23-2001, 06:46 PM	#8
StoplightWarrior Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Nor-Cal Posts: 1,311	Thanks for the help guys. If I do get them, I'll be sure to weld em in.

01-24-2001, 09:20 AM	#9
Mustang92 Drag Racer! Join Date: Nov 1999 Location: Lake Worth, FL USA Posts: 757	Just a side note for those of you looking at sub frames. I've seen the round tube design rip off the dog ears that are welded to them. The square tube design seems to be structurally better and off more support. Just my opinion based on my past experience. ------------------ 00 GT, MAC Offroad H, Pullies, 4.10’s, Flows, UPR shifter, subframes, LCA’s, air filter, Weld Pro Stars, Nitto DR’s 13.19@103.86 (1.82 60ft) 244.6 RWHP M/M 100 88 LX coupe X-FHP, 12pt Cage, UPR K-member, 31 spline rear, full spool…