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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Camp LeJeune, NC
Posts: 16
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![]() I own a 96 GT thats pretty much bone stock. Im in the Marine Corps so I dont have a ton of money. I want to know what mods i can do to get me to at least the 300 hp mark without supercharging and nitrus. Like I said funds are limited. Also, does anyone know a good place I would be able to take my care to get worked on if need be around the Raleigh, NC area?
Thanks |
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#2 |
AKA "Dr. Evil"
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: South Fork Ranch
Posts: 1,721
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![]() Welcome to our newest jarhead...
![]() Seriously, Some 3.73 gears, pullies, and an H\X pipe would be a good start... If you're looking for some REAL HP gains without forced induction, its time to start saving for a PI head swap...
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Uncle Sam "What the hell is up with all the gauges? Calling Captain Kirk, your ride awaits... Phasers on stun...." |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Lawton, OK
Posts: 56
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![]() yeah, those 96-98 heads are lacking.... ALOT of potential.
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Camp LeJeune, NC
Posts: 16
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![]() About how much money and work am i looking at for that head swap?
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 8
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Texas/California
Posts: 16
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![]() Devil Dogg,
The choice of up-grading parts are vast for the 96-98. The 99-02 heads are a good step {50+hp} to start with after opening your car up to breath. Ford Mustang "street" racers find it adequate to apply off road H and X pipes to a one chamber flowmaster or dynomaxs' new race muffler. Gears are good to go but apply the ratio to the type of car(i.e. 4.10's[quarter mile racing]or 3.55's[everyday driving]) I personally have 3.55's in a 400 plus hp vehicle with a 150 squirt of nitrous as a minimal power adder, but this is also the same car I drive day in and day out to college and work. A C&L MAF would be good for your stallion as well. Look into upper and lower intakes. You'll want to hold your power by changing that stock clutche of your too. SPEC and Centerforce has been good to me. MSD makes a good DIS for your car...squash Jacobs Electronics. I personally have found that Longtubes are the way to go rather than the equal lengths{shorties}. I would recommend a traction research for you in tires, wheels, control arms, bushings, axles, shocks, braces, track bars, etc. Depending on how serious you are looking to apply that horse. You can have all the power in the world but if you can't hold it, squat (weight transfer), or use it in a manner of moving in rapid acceleration of gaining space to achieve distance...a LS1 with a big mouth will sh*t talk till bowties fly. Being that I was stationed in N.C. for a while and Camp Pen. I have knowledge of a very good place in N.C. who applied my bag of tricks. California has more than enough to offer if you get shipped over there. Modular Mustangs are not as simple as the old age ponies. Read sources for knowledge and take more than five opinions on parts. You should spend alot of time at your nearest track and get "chummy with the old guys" because in the end...they've been there and done that. The fundamentals are the same, although advance technology has turned heads away from the known 5.0 days. Hey Jarhead, if you want to shoot the **** or ask questions...feel free to email me at jmjett01@yahoo.com Note: this is the first time I have been on this web site...so I am fairly new to this forum but it does seem to serve its purpose. Take it easy brother, John
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"The bullshit stops when my right foot drops" |
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