Suspension Choices?

tra9379 · 12-17-1999, 09:50 PM

How is the PST suspension rebuild kit (polygraphite) and how are the KYB shocks and struts and the Catapult Control arms (upper & lower rear). I'm trying to keep it inexpensive and have good quality what do you think? And I would like to order the whole suspension from one place as a system that works together not a pieced together suspension. Thanx

------------------
90 LX Coupe - MAC Headers, Off-Road H-Pipe, MAC Cat Back, K&N Cone, Built AOD Tranny.

Skankin · 12-20-1999, 10:52 AM

I did the PST kit last year as part of a budget rebuild. One of my ball joint covers had been torn for some time, so I thought "what the hell". In actuality, I only had 140K KM on it, and I really didn't need the ball joints or tie rod ends. It is a good kit though.

In retrospect, instead of going with the polygraphite lower control arm bushings, I'd get some offset bushings from elsewhere. I've heard you can get the Del-alum's for $35. This will give you more caster (better feel, and a better camber curve), as well as better weight distribution... all of which will tone down the understeer.

Either way, the firmer bushings really improved steering response (turn-in), and you won't loose as much negative camber from deflection.

All of my swaybar bushings were totally worn, so they are certainly a good investment.

I put the KYB GR-2 shocks and struts on, and I was very happy. The rebound was pretty much gone on the stock S&S. Much better handling, and decent ride too. I put the Gas-a-just quads on as well. In my opinion they're a little stiff, but they do provide superior axle control.

It depends what your purpose is... if you wanna improve in the 1/4 mile, definitely go for the Gas-a-just quads and the control arms. If you're looking for handling, stay away from the control arm. The bushings are stiffer, so there's even more bind. You may remove any "snap oversteer", but it will be at the expense of ride and compliance on less than perfect surfaces.

I should also add that I went with the FMS5300 B springs... but in retrospect, I'd go with the C's. These are a little stiffer, but you'll already get more Noise, Vibration and Harshness with the LCA bushings, so go for the stiffer springs. They'll help keep your inside front tire down on the corners, and reduce some of the roll.

Problem is, there are so many band-aid solutions out there, and none of the cheaper kit's are really that great. If you were going for a complete kit, I could only recommend Griggs or IPS, but they are probably both out of your price range.

What I'd suggest:

I guess Global West has some more appropriate entry level stuff. You could go with their lower control arms (I'd leave the uppers stock), offset front lower control arm bushings (I think they offer), and caster camber plates (if budget permits). Pick up some FMS 5300C springs and front control arm bushings.

I also highly recommend subframe connectors (GW are also decent). They really reduce the floor pan flex, and give you much better response, and the car will transition like a real car!

A sub chassis brace will also do wonders for steering response (not sure if GW offers this).

On the other hand, if you've got a lot of miles on it, you might want the ball joints and tie rod ends... if so, order the 93 tie rod ends... they improved them over the years...

------------------
Skankin

'89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 140Km (Never seen a Canadian winter), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, Ram Air, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, 180 therm, 3 core rad, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, and Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors.
http://phystutor.tripod.com/stang/index.html

12-17-1999, 09:50 PM	#1
tra9379 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Burbank, IL Posts: 249	Suspension Choices? How is the PST suspension rebuild kit (polygraphite) and how are the KYB shocks and struts and the Catapult Control arms (upper & lower rear). I'm trying to keep it inexpensive and have good quality what do you think? And I would like to order the whole suspension from one place as a system that works together not a pieced together suspension. Thanx ------------------ 90 LX Coupe - MAC Headers, Off-Road H-Pipe, MAC Cat Back, K&N Cone, Built AOD Tranny.

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12-20-1999, 10:52 AM	#2
Skankin Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,349	I did the PST kit last year as part of a budget rebuild. One of my ball joint covers had been torn for some time, so I thought "what the hell". In actuality, I only had 140K KM on it, and I really didn't need the ball joints or tie rod ends. It is a good kit though. In retrospect, instead of going with the polygraphite lower control arm bushings, I'd get some offset bushings from elsewhere. I've heard you can get the Del-alum's for $35. This will give you more caster (better feel, and a better camber curve), as well as better weight distribution... all of which will tone down the understeer. Either way, the firmer bushings really improved steering response (turn-in), and you won't loose as much negative camber from deflection. All of my swaybar bushings were totally worn, so they are certainly a good investment. I put the KYB GR-2 shocks and struts on, and I was very happy. The rebound was pretty much gone on the stock S&S. Much better handling, and decent ride too. I put the Gas-a-just quads on as well. In my opinion they're a little stiff, but they do provide superior axle control. It depends what your purpose is... if you wanna improve in the 1/4 mile, definitely go for the Gas-a-just quads and the control arms. If you're looking for handling, stay away from the control arm. The bushings are stiffer, so there's even more bind. You may remove any "snap oversteer", but it will be at the expense of ride and compliance on less than perfect surfaces. I should also add that I went with the FMS5300 B springs... but in retrospect, I'd go with the C's. These are a little stiffer, but you'll already get more Noise, Vibration and Harshness with the LCA bushings, so go for the stiffer springs. They'll help keep your inside front tire down on the corners, and reduce some of the roll. Problem is, there are so many band-aid solutions out there, and none of the cheaper kit's are really that great. If you were going for a complete kit, I could only recommend Griggs or IPS, but they are probably both out of your price range. What I'd suggest: I guess Global West has some more appropriate entry level stuff. You could go with their lower control arms (I'd leave the uppers stock), offset front lower control arm bushings (I think they offer), and caster camber plates (if budget permits). Pick up some FMS 5300C springs and front control arm bushings. I also highly recommend subframe connectors (GW are also decent). They really reduce the floor pan flex, and give you much better response, and the car will transition like a real car! A sub chassis brace will also do wonders for steering response (not sure if GW offers this). On the other hand, if you've got a lot of miles on it, you might want the ball joints and tie rod ends... if so, order the 93 tie rod ends... they improved them over the years... ------------------ Skankin '89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 140Km (Never seen a Canadian winter), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, Ram Air, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, 180 therm, 3 core rad, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, and Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. http://phystutor.tripod.com/stang/index.html