Painting tips..thoughts and ideas wanted.

Shotgun28 · 02-13-2001, 12:00 AM

Well this actually isn't for my stang but one of our daily drivers....I noticed some rust underneath the weather stripping on my driver's side door and was wondering what the best way to remove the rust, seal it so it will not return and to repaint it, without it looking horrible. I cannot afford to have someone do it, but I do have the needed tools, sprayer, etc and can spend the money on some quality car paint and was wondering what the best way of prepping and painting. I am going to just do the whole lower 1/4 of each side and front bumber. sand and rocks chips and some slight fade. I know to sand the rust down to bare and an inch out from the last detected rust, but what about the spots that are still glossy and look good, how do you prep that. I will be using the same color, just thinned out to match the present paint as much as possible. All thoughts and ideas appreciated. Thank you in advance.

------------------
91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip and just purchased some GT40P heads, looking at exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus on it's way...

1989GT · 02-13-2001, 12:12 AM

After you remove of all the rust. Spray it with a quality automotive primer. Then wet\dry sand the entire area with 400 grit sand paper. The parts the still look good just scuff with 400 grit sand paper. That way the paint will have something to "grab" onto. Make sure you get remove all the wax\grease that is still on the parts to be painted.

------------------
89GT,T-5Z, D.S.S. 306 shortblock w\main support, B-303 cam, Cobra intake, GT40P heads, 1.72rr, MAC "P" headers, MAC off-road H-Pipe, MAC true-fit w\tips, 373's...and the list goes on!
Throttle Junkie Powered by Ford!
12.824 @ 107.05 MPH
PVT Blankenship leaving for BCT 14MAR01
MOS 67 Romeo

98yellow stang · 02-13-2001, 10:28 AM

ditto 1989GT

------------------
My 98 yellow stang

Mods:
Magnaflow cat-back

2FastLX · 02-13-2001, 11:07 AM

Whenever you go to bare metal, especially in a rusted area, it is best to use some acid etch on the metal. Primer will stick to bare metal, but will stick better after the acid etch. You can get acid etch at the paint store.

Also, remove the weather stripping to make sure you get all the rust out from under it otherwise it will come right back. Get some 3M contact adhesive for the wether stripping if it is stick on type stuff.

Then prime the area then use a sealer, then paint.

[This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 02-13-2001).]

Shotgun28 · 02-13-2001, 02:06 PM

okay primer,sealer, and then paint. what is the sealer exactly? I thought the primer was the sealer. And yes I was planning on removing all of the weatherstripping. I think it was the cause of the rust. started to pull away from the door, and I think water would get trapped in the door. Thanks for your help. Any ideas on clear coat and paint brands....how much would a pint cover? anyone know how much is needed, how many coats,etc. Thanks everyone who responded.

------------------
91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip and just purchased some GT40P heads, looking at exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus on it's way...

Green92LX · 02-13-2001, 04:01 PM

This isn't a cheap shot, but bring it to somebody who knows what they are doing. You'll pay for it, but they will do a better job. If you care about what the car looks like, then you will take my advise. You can't just spray it in your back yard and make it look mint. Its a long tedious process to do mint paint work. I work at my buddies shop where I dabble with my own $hit on the side, and it aint easy in the beginning. You need the right equipment, the right environment, and most importantly the know-how (like knowing the difference between primer and sealer). Sorry if you think I'm being harsh, but its the truth...

------------------
1992 5.0 LX, Edelbrock 6037 Heads, Cobra Intake,E-303, 1.6 Roller Rockers,65MM Holley TB, 75 MM Pro M Mass Air, 190 LPH FP w/ 24 lb injectors,BBK equal length shorties,offroad h-pipe,Mac Flowpath Mufflers, Pro 5.0, 3.73's,Motorsport "C" springs,welded subframe connectors, Ponies w/ 225/50 Nittos, 93 Cobra Spoiler

Daily driver: 89 Coupe with 205K plus, BBK shorties,offroad h-pipe,2-chamber flowmasters with dumps, cut and welded stock shifter...and it runs like a champ.

pro88 · 02-14-2001, 10:38 PM

Sounds like you know how to remove the rust. Now go and get some sealer, follow the dilution ratio and spray it first. Wait a minute, the areas that are still glossy, just get some 600 wet/dry paper and scuff it up really good, then spray the sealer. What kind of gun are you using? A gravity feed or a siphon gun. If you use a gravity feed, run you pressure at around 35psi., if you're using a siphon gun, run your pressure at around 50 psi. After you spray the sealer you can wet sand it lightly with 800 paper after it's cured. Now you're ready to paint, mask off the car and start spraying. Spray your tack coat first (light coat), wait 30 min. and then start on your color coats (heavier coats). By the way, are you spraying base/clear or acrylic enamil? If you're spraying base clear, shoot your base (this stuff is hard to get a run in it), wet sand with 800 so it's nice and smooth. Wipe wax and grease remover all over it and let it dry really good and shoot your clear. Be carefull because this stuff is easier to get runs. After you're happy with the coats of clear, let it cure and color sand it with 1500 grit and buff it. Acrylic enamil on the other hand is an easy single step paint process. Prep the car the same, spray your tack coat and go with your color coats. Watch for runs though. Practice on an old door or something first. You'll be suprized how simple painting a car really is. Have Fun!! Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions.

XZILR8TION · 02-15-2001, 09:59 AM

you can also use some self etching primer over the bare metal. scuff it off with a red scuff pad. put down a coat of good primer, wet sand it with 600.follow with your top coat. dont forget to wipe it down with wax and grease remover after you do your initial stripping.. good luck

02-15-2001, 10:15 PM

If this were my car, heres how I would go about it. First I would sand around the areas that are rusted with 400grit.(this will save you time later) Then I would sand all the areas that are rusted to bare metal, and the 1" past like you mentioned. Be sure were the bare metal and paint meet that you FEATHER EDGE the existing paint. This way you will not have a hard line when its painted. Spot prime the bare metal areas with a SELF ETCH PRIMER.You just need 1-2 light coats of this. This is not a sealer, nor a surfacer, but it will help prevent the rust from returning. I would then spot prime the areas of bare metal with some high build primer, often called PRIMER SURFACER. Get the urethane type, DO NOT GET LACQUER, the laquer has really poor build quality. 2-4 wet coats of the urethane surfacer should get it back to level. Once the Surfacer has dried wet sand the entire panel with 500grit, I would use some guide coat to make sure that the panels are perfectly straight. Then if you want you can use a sealer, its up to you. Once its primed,sanded and if you choose sealed, you are ready to paint. Wax&Grease remove the all the panels, but as you wipe the Wax&Grease remover on, WIPE IT RIGHT OFF, DO NOT LET IT DRY ON THE PANEL. I would personally spray base/clear. Get the brand of paint you want. I like PPG or Sikkens. Its up to you. THen just follow the mixing ratios for the base and clear and be sure to respect your flash times. IF you have anymore questions just email me. GOOD LUCK

02-13-2001, 12:00 AM	#1
Shotgun28 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: New Hope MN USA Posts: 276	Painting tips..thoughts and ideas wanted. Well this actually isn't for my stang but one of our daily drivers....I noticed some rust underneath the weather stripping on my driver's side door and was wondering what the best way to remove the rust, seal it so it will not return and to repaint it, without it looking horrible. I cannot afford to have someone do it, but I do have the needed tools, sprayer, etc and can spend the money on some quality car paint and was wondering what the best way of prepping and painting. I am going to just do the whole lower 1/4 of each side and front bumber. sand and rocks chips and some slight fade. I know to sand the rust down to bare and an inch out from the last detected rust, but what about the spots that are still glossy and look good, how do you prep that. I will be using the same color, just thinned out to match the present paint as much as possible. All thoughts and ideas appreciated. Thank you in advance. ------------------ 91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip and just purchased some GT40P heads, looking at exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus on it's way...

02-13-2001, 12:12 AM	#2
1989GT Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Cincinnati,OH Posts: 1,511	After you remove of all the rust. Spray it with a quality automotive primer. Then wet\dry sand the entire area with 400 grit sand paper. The parts the still look good just scuff with 400 grit sand paper. That way the paint will have something to "grab" onto. Make sure you get remove all the wax\grease that is still on the parts to be painted. ------------------ 89GT,T-5Z, D.S.S. 306 shortblock w\main support, B-303 cam, Cobra intake, GT40P heads, 1.72rr, MAC "P" headers, MAC off-road H-Pipe, MAC true-fit w\tips, 373's...and the list goes on! Throttle Junkie Powered by Ford! 12.824 @ 107.05 MPH PVT Blankenship leaving for BCT 14MAR01 MOS 67 Romeo

02-13-2001, 10:28 AM	#3
98yellow stang Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Erie PA USA Posts: 38	ditto 1989GT ------------------ My 98 yellow stang Mods: Magnaflow cat-back

02-13-2001, 11:07 AM	#4
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	Whenever you go to bare metal, especially in a rusted area, it is best to use some acid etch on the metal. Primer will stick to bare metal, but will stick better after the acid etch. You can get acid etch at the paint store. Also, remove the weather stripping to make sure you get all the rust out from under it otherwise it will come right back. Get some 3M contact adhesive for the wether stripping if it is stick on type stuff. Then prime the area then use a sealer, then paint. [This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 02-13-2001).]

02-13-2001, 02:06 PM	#5
Shotgun28 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: New Hope MN USA Posts: 276	okay primer,sealer, and then paint. what is the sealer exactly? I thought the primer was the sealer. And yes I was planning on removing all of the weatherstripping. I think it was the cause of the rust. started to pull away from the door, and I think water would get trapped in the door. Thanks for your help. Any ideas on clear coat and paint brands....how much would a pint cover? anyone know how much is needed, how many coats,etc. Thanks everyone who responded. ------------------ 91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip and just purchased some GT40P heads, looking at exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus on it's way...

02-13-2001, 04:01 PM	#6
Green92LX Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: North Haven,CT Posts: 336	This isn't a cheap shot, but bring it to somebody who knows what they are doing. You'll pay for it, but they will do a better job. If you care about what the car looks like, then you will take my advise. You can't just spray it in your back yard and make it look mint. Its a long tedious process to do mint paint work. I work at my buddies shop where I dabble with my own $hit on the side, and it aint easy in the beginning. You need the right equipment, the right environment, and most importantly the know-how (like knowing the difference between primer and sealer). Sorry if you think I'm being harsh, but its the truth... ------------------ 1992 5.0 LX, Edelbrock 6037 Heads, Cobra Intake,E-303, 1.6 Roller Rockers,65MM Holley TB, 75 MM Pro M Mass Air, 190 LPH FP w/ 24 lb injectors,BBK equal length shorties,offroad h-pipe,Mac Flowpath Mufflers, Pro 5.0, 3.73's,Motorsport "C" springs,welded subframe connectors, Ponies w/ 225/50 Nittos, 93 Cobra Spoiler Daily driver: 89 Coupe with 205K plus, BBK shorties,offroad h-pipe,2-chamber flowmasters with dumps, cut and welded stock shifter...and it runs like a champ.

02-14-2001, 10:38 PM	#7
pro88 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: roseburg, oregon Posts: 87	Sounds like you know how to remove the rust. Now go and get some sealer, follow the dilution ratio and spray it first. Wait a minute, the areas that are still glossy, just get some 600 wet/dry paper and scuff it up really good, then spray the sealer. What kind of gun are you using? A gravity feed or a siphon gun. If you use a gravity feed, run you pressure at around 35psi., if you're using a siphon gun, run your pressure at around 50 psi. After you spray the sealer you can wet sand it lightly with 800 paper after it's cured. Now you're ready to paint, mask off the car and start spraying. Spray your tack coat first (light coat), wait 30 min. and then start on your color coats (heavier coats). By the way, are you spraying base/clear or acrylic enamil? If you're spraying base clear, shoot your base (this stuff is hard to get a run in it), wet sand with 800 so it's nice and smooth. Wipe wax and grease remover all over it and let it dry really good and shoot your clear. Be carefull because this stuff is easier to get runs. After you're happy with the coats of clear, let it cure and color sand it with 1500 grit and buff it. Acrylic enamil on the other hand is an easy single step paint process. Prep the car the same, spray your tack coat and go with your color coats. Watch for runs though. Practice on an old door or something first. You'll be suprized how simple painting a car really is. Have Fun!! Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions.

02-15-2001, 09:59 AM	#8
XZILR8TION Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: FRANKFORT,KY Posts: 11	you can also use some self etching primer over the bare metal. scuff it off with a red scuff pad. put down a coat of good primer, wet sand it with 600.follow with your top coat. dont forget to wipe it down with wax and grease remover after you do your initial stripping.. good luck

02-15-2001, 10:15 PM	#9
mikos chris Guest Posts: n/a	If this were my car, heres how I would go about it. First I would sand around the areas that are rusted with 400grit.(this will save you time later) Then I would sand all the areas that are rusted to bare metal, and the 1" past like you mentioned. Be sure were the bare metal and paint meet that you FEATHER EDGE the existing paint. This way you will not have a hard line when its painted. Spot prime the bare metal areas with a SELF ETCH PRIMER.You just need 1-2 light coats of this. This is not a sealer, nor a surfacer, but it will help prevent the rust from returning. I would then spot prime the areas of bare metal with some high build primer, often called PRIMER SURFACER. Get the urethane type, DO NOT GET LACQUER, the laquer has really poor build quality. 2-4 wet coats of the urethane surfacer should get it back to level. Once the Surfacer has dried wet sand the entire panel with 500grit, I would use some guide coat to make sure that the panels are perfectly straight. Then if you want you can use a sealer, its up to you. Once its primed,sanded and if you choose sealed, you are ready to paint. Wax&Grease remove the all the panels, but as you wipe the Wax&Grease remover on, WIPE IT RIGHT OFF, DO NOT LET IT DRY ON THE PANEL. I would personally spray base/clear. Get the brand of paint you want. I like PPG or Sikkens. Its up to you. THen just follow the mixing ratios for the base and clear and be sure to respect your flash times. IF you have anymore questions just email me. GOOD LUCK