what a difference!
 

hey, i used to have a 1994 mustang gt with automatic transmission and recently traded in for a 2000 mustang gt with manual transmission. just wanted to say it feels much more refined. the suspension is smoother, and at the same time it handles better. acceleration is a night and day difference and the mod motor feels alot smoother and eager to rev. wow, what a car.

Welcome to the Modular motors. I hope you enjoy your stay. My fiance has a 2001 GT. REally a neat little car. I am in the middle of doing a P&P job on her intake. What are your plans for mods?

not too sure yet, i don't want to change many things. i'd like to keep the 3.27's. possibly exhaust work in the future, but nothing noisy. mabey a bullitt intake manifold also. i've read in a book that the bullitt intake manifold makes only 5 more horsepower, but torque peaks at a much lower rpm. something like that would be good.

first off I will have say congrates
and welcome to the mod motor world

is there a reason you would like to keep the 3.27 gears?

and if its gas(MPG) then I will tell you this I have 4.10s and I get better MPG around town then I did with the 3.27s and highway I lost maybe 2 MPG

if looking for a cat back but not to loud then look into magnaflow
but remember on a stock n/a car a cat back wont give much power if any just sound.

Welcome to the Mod world where things are getting better and cars getting faster.

3.27's
 

3.27's are a good all around gear, i'm happy with them. i'm thinking maybe short-tube headers and intake manifold, along with mass-air meter and throttle body. by the way, what would be the right sizes for mass-air and throttle body for more horsepower/torque. i'm going to the book store to see what i can find. i knew alot about the 302, it's like i'm starting over with the modular. is the exhaust manifold on these motors efficient?

The Bullit intake is really expensive for very little gain on a stock car. Also, shorty headers are almost not worth the price and the pain of installing. Throttle body won't give you anything unless you get an aftermarket upper plenum. The more effective bolt-ons for modular GTs are underdrive pullies, timing adjuster, x- or h-pipe, plenum, longtube headers, etc.

i was looking through a 4.6 performance book and wasn't impressed with the performance gains for throttle body, mass-air, exhaust etc.. i think i'll leave the car the way it is for now. i also looked in a mm&ff magazine at a camshaft test. the aftermarket camshafts were pretty much the same as factory, with 10 more horsepower in the higher rpm's. definitely not worth the money and hassle. i'll wait to see if something decent becomes available.

i would say that there are already decent mods available.

the motors dont need help with mass air becuase it is sufficent for the car as it is, go with the mods listed above, or in my sig, and i think you will be happy and not break the wallet.

the mods they listed are definetly worth while. i dont think you could take a 5.0 and spend 1300 bucks and run 13.50s N/A.

Plenum and TB - 350
X-pipe & Catback - 450
Shifter - 160-180
4.10s - 350 installed ( the other parts can be installed yourself)

I agree 100% with blue00GT. Also you may want to look into the jlt cold air intake. it is only $150 with GREAT GAINS!!! www.jlttruecoldair.com is his website. The GT CAI is not on there but will be on there next week.

my car does low 14's from the factory, mid 13's isn't much of a difference for all that work.

a mid 13 is a hell of a lot of difference ..i wish i could run a mid 13 with my car all motor

well, of the things mentioned above, i would possibly change the throttle body and plenum, and also the exhaust system. i'd rather not deal with gears. i had them done on my 1994 mustang and the backlash was out of adjustment, causing them to make noise when i let off the gas. 3.27's are a good all around gear anyhow, and i won't be racing at the track. does anyone have dyno numbers for aftermarket exhaust and throttle body/plenum? any magazine article quotes?

Write-up on Testing TB and Plenum

i've read on modulardepot guys with longtubes, midpipe, catrback, pullies, plenum and tb and CAI and a tuner(diablo/SCT) are pulling around 270-280 rwhp

Welcome to the board by the way....3:27's are Granny gears!!!

Why? the 4.6's power band is more usefull in the upper RPM range...3:73's OR 4:10's will get you there much quicker. As you gain more experience with the 4.6 you will know that GEARS will be the best bang for the buck, besides supercharging...:)

Cams are not a bad mod either...not only should you look at the HP gain, look at the operating range / power band at which they generate HP/TORQUE...much different / efficient than stock.

It's your car. Make it the way you want. Everyone has different goals and situations.

Catbacks can add measurable power. There is some great info at Mach 1 registry where three different catbacks were tested on an otherwise stock Mach 1. SLP and Magnaflo were two of them I believe. The gains were 8 - 12 hp as I recall.

Plenum and TB combos are a proven 10 - 12 hp. There has been tons of studies done on these...it's a no brainer. You have to decide if the $350 for both is worth it.

I also must agree that gears such as 4.10's are a great mod. They will make the car feel more like a 5.0 by adding power down low and make the car scream that much more at peak.

So, here is a list of common mods, price and hp gains:

1 - Catback...$300 - $500...10 hp
2 - Under Drive Pullies...$200 installed...8 hp
3 - Plenun/TB...$350...10 hp
4 - CAI...$80 - $250...0 - 8 hp
5 - 4.10's...$500 installed....0 hp (but seems like 40 hp)

thanks, blake. the only other thing that i would consider are headers. any idea how much long tubes or short tubes would add?

Like any mod, some headers work well, others don't. Some leak a lot too. But, 15 hp seems to be about what you can get with them. I would generally suggest long tubes. They cost about $500 - $700. Not sure what short tubes run, though. They are a pain to install as sometimes require to pull the motor. I have no plans for headers unless I would need to pull motor anyway.

i've heard of having to push up on one side of the motor, but not completely moving. with the mods you have, did you notice a big difference? did you run at the track before or after? i would go to that car show, but i'm in new york.

Hey, I just noticed where you live. I have been there tons of time to your town, but not in a while. You are about 3.5 hours from me.

My car is night and day different from when it was stock. Unfortunately I have no track times yet. I have most likely taken 0.75 to 1.0 seconds off my 1/4 mile though since I started.

I will have times by the end of the week.

ok, keep me posted.

1 thats a 4v not a 2v the catbacks on a 2v maybe 5hp max
2 I only seen 4hp on a dyno form my u/d pullies(same day dyno)
3 togather you might see 10
4 cai save your money they are only worth 2-3hp and you can get that from a drop in k&n

now put them all togather then yes you see some gains

and headers unless there longtubes on the mod motors are not worth it and no you wont gain 15hp headers on the stock long block

yeah, i just got the pro-m and c&l plenum yesterday and put them on. not sure if i can tell the difference, but i know flow must have improved. as far as mufflers go, i think the stock mufflers are loud enough when going through the rpm's. i was thinking of getting a steeda timing adjuster, but i don't want to lose my traction control option. will the adjuster affect it? i don't want underdrive pullies because i don't care to slow my charging and cooling systems. the only other thing i'm planning on getting is a 75mm throttle body.

the timing adj has nothing to do with the traction control and the underdrives will not cause ANY charging or cooling problems. thats was a problem on the fox bodys

that T/B on your car which is stock is a waste of money
I run 12s will almost all the bolt ons and dont use a 75mm t/b I use a 70mm

not to sound rude but what do you want to do? you come on here asking ?(which is cool) but everything people say you respond with a reason why you dont want to do that

i wish you'd list the bolt-ons in your profile so i can see what they are. i put a c&l plenum and pro-m on mine a few days ago. i wasn't even considering a shifter until today. i went to the mustang show at jack byrne in mechanicville and someone with a mach 1 told me to try it out. i couldn't believe the difference in travel. part of what the traction control system does is retard timing. could it still do that with the timing adjuster? i don't see how. well, i'm also now considering gears, 3.73's or 4.10's because it feels like forever going through the gears. i'm happy with the sound of the exhaust system. i don't want anything too loud. how much will my rpm's differ with 3.73's or 4.10's? i'm guessing about 300 or 400 rpm.

how the timing adj works is by adding a new trigger wheel and moving the sensor so the computer is not being trick or locked out so it can still retard the timing. and yes the t/c will still work with a t/a.
mine no longer works cause of my spooled rear end

the dif. between 3.73 and 4.10 is only a few hundred rpm but performance is night and day

and yes if you have a 5-speed stang I would get a shifter
I would go with a steeda tri ax or pro 5.0

funny you mentioned shifter, i've just ordered a pro 5.0 from ebay. i went to the mustang car show in mechanicville today, and someone there had a 2003 mach 1 and asked me to sit in it and work the steeda tri-ax shifter. i couldn't believe the difference in travel. oh, by the way, i meant the difference in rpm's between 3.27's, and 3.73's or 4.10's. forgot to mention my stock gear ratio. i also didn't know about the steeda and 5.0 being spring loaded for easier 3rd. i ran into that problem more than once. it's kind of irritating.

I dont know the diff between them
but here with my 4.10s at 80 im at 3000
I get about 19-21 mpg on highway
20-24 city (I can use 5th at 30mph)

I will tell this I have owned 3 other mustang before this one and I have to say I made the mistake of not doing gears right away .

on this one 1st mod I did gears and will say this the car loves the 4.10s the 3.73s are a waste in the 99+ mod motor cars unless you going with a roots style blower

ok, so at 70 are you at 2500 with the 4.10's? i'm at 2000 at 65 with 3.27's. i was watching an old horsepower tv show and they put a flowmaster cat-back exhaust system on a 1996 gt, and picked up 16 horsepower. would the gains be the same on the PI mustangs, or alot different?

16 hp is A LOT from a catback. But, as a general rule, the more power the motor produces, the more you will gain from an intake or exhaust mod.

As a response to a previous post in this thread, my car ran 14.3 a few weeks ago, 970 feet altitude, 85 degrees and 94% humidity. Corrected, that's a 13.8.

I removed no weight, and left tire pressure stock, and granny shifted. Don't forget, I have a heavy-ass vert as well. However, I had hoped for better. Usinf my corrected time, I have shaved about .4 - .6 off my times stock I would think.

My 60 foot times were 2.0X. I need to drop some tire pressure and launch higher. I think I can drop my 60 foot to 1.8. With cooler temps, I am hoping get mid 13's if possible.

i hope you can do it, it would give me something to shoot for. the lowest e.t. i've seen from a completely stock car is a 13.7 in a mm&ff magazine. the magazine said it had clocked that time someplace else, but mm&ff was only able to get a 14.1. still, very good. in another issue of the same magazine, a completely stock mustang got a 14.1, but it was equipped with automatic transmission. not sure if they used any tricks, different tires etc. in addition to the mods in my signature, i have a pro 5.0 shifter on the way, and i also plan on getting a 75mm throttle body and port matching it to my plenum. possibly a power programmer and cat-back exhaust also. maybe i'll just get a mid-pipe with two converters, i think the extra two converters is where most of the power is lost. the stock mufflers sound pretty good. quiet at idle, and a nice tone under acceleration. i'm not into the noisy mufflers, i'd rather hear my radio and i'm only losing maybe 2 or 3 horsepower with the stock mufflers. i'm not getting pullies, as the 1994 i used to have didn't charge the battery when i was at idle. i had the fan on high, and my car almost didn't start because of the slow alternator speed. wow, i think this my longest thread ever. i hope you don't get eye strain reading it!

No worries about the thread being too long. We are just getting started. (lol)

I would not worry about the pullies on these later model cars. There are virtually no gripes about them. Stay with a good brand and you will have no trouble.

Magazine 1/4 mile times can be missleading as weather, tires, altitude, and driver can make a big difference. I saw most of the GT's running mid 14's that night. I was actually the fastest late-model NA GT their that night. A car on NOS was running 13.5.

what is a good brand for underdrive pullies? i had march on my 1994. if i get a good brand, can i sit at idle with the fan on max without charging problems? that's what i'd like to avoid. i don't race at the track, and i sit in traffic often.