1968 mustang corner carver?

vetteeatr · 11-18-2002, 06:17 PM

I remember seeing gone in 60 seconds and that car seemed to handle rather well. But I have little expierience on set-ups.

I was wondering due to lighter weight woudl this car actually perform a little better in autocrossing?

What would I need to do to pull 1 G on a skid pad?

Just a thought please comment

drudis · 11-20-2002, 09:02 AM

I am not familiar with the older suspension Mustangs, but take a look at www.griggsracing.com for some examples...

musrcng · 11-20-2002, 11:21 PM

check out www.totalcontrolproducts.com they have a coil over conversion and a rack and pinion plus other goodies

vetteeatr · 11-21-2002, 05:15 PM

i was reading the griggs site and htey actaulyl said the 65 to 70 models have more potential then then even the newer ones...

I was wondering about wheelbase and weight.

could someone explian how weight and wheelbase affects handling?

musrcng · 11-21-2002, 08:13 PM

I am no expert but I will try to help here. Weight is a big factor because the more weight you care in to a corner the harder it is to turn because that weight wants to go straight. Hence the lighter the car the easier it is to turn. That of course is simplified then you can start including weight ratio's like front engine rear wheel drive. As far as wheel base I don't think it affects it as much as front and rear overhang. You want your wheels as far out to the corners as you can get. Thats why Dodge would brag about there cars wheels being as far apart as they could be and Pontiac saying wider is better. This is an old concept though. The Mini Cooper has been doing this since the 50's. I am really starting to learn alot about road cars because I currently live in Germany and my daily driver is a Mini Chelsea and it is a blast to drive. I live in a deep valley and the roads out are steep and twisty. My wife's SHO can run uphill but as soon as it levels out I lose her quickly. Well I hope I was able to help you alittle take care and enjoy

vetteeatr · 11-23-2002, 12:03 AM

ok so do you guys think it has more potential or not?

So are you saying that if the 65-66 msutangs are lets say 100 lbs less but 3 inches narrower i should go with those but i could just flare my fenders and get that width back by makign the tires stick out form teh original body dimensions thus widening my width of tire by around 4 inches give or take?

Also I have a really important question. I kinda wanna still eb able to take on cars on the street but if im runngin aroudn wiht 18's or so im jsutthinkign all i will do is spin with all taht power?

Ive read 17's are becomign pretty common and have larger widewall on some tries makgin teh "flex" similar to a 16 inch rim.

Do they even make tires that are jstu really really sticky but also are great for auto-crossing?

Also i realyl kinda like the look of the tires top edge kinda beign wrapped by the fender covering it. kinda like a lowrider. But i really dont want rubbing anyone know abotu this or shoudl i egt tires first then kinda adjust?

2FastLX · 12-07-2002, 09:16 PM

A wider wheel base will essentially work like lowering your center of gravity. The lower the center of gravity, the less body roll you will have which will in turn keep all the tires planted better for more traction. Griggs seems to be the best at making killer handling components for our Mustangs so I'd check out what they have to offer in the GR350 package.

I had a 65 and a 66 Mustang when I was in high school and driving those cars is a total blast. If I could find a 65-68 to build for a corner carver I would definately do it. They just feel like they are lighter than the newer Mustangs. Kind of like an overgrown go-cart.

I say go for it. Then when you get it done come by and give me a ride in it

hobgoblin351 · 12-08-2002, 09:47 AM

Have you read the book "how to make your car handle" ? Prety much every parts house sells it. It's a good book to start with. Now I'm reading one on chasis design. But , i cant remember the name, and it's out in the car! lol I'll get it for ya it's a really good one.
I've got a 1970conv, with a boss 351. Yeah it's a brute. I'm having trouble keeping it on the road. Thus all the books on handeling. Our early Stangs suspensions although crude by todays standards have great potential. A few bolt on mods will see great results. Stiffen the frame, Export braces and monte carlo bars, sub frame connectors. They are not high tech but the less body flex you get, the more power can be put into the corner. "Boss 302 Chassis Modification" another good book. The same principles used to stiffen the 70's frame can be applied to the earlier Stangs. I didnt know this until doing alot of reading. Our solid axle lo-tech rears, when set up properly, and run on a smooth track, can put more power to the ground than all those high tech indedpenant rear suspensions! I'm now trying to figure out how to add a 4-link suspension with coil overs. I'll get this thing to pull1G in a corner yet! Good luck

11-18-2002, 06:17 PM	#1
vetteeatr Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Olney, Illinois, USA Posts: 212	1968 mustang corner carver? I remember seeing gone in 60 seconds and that car seemed to handle rather well. But I have little expierience on set-ups. I was wondering due to lighter weight woudl this car actually perform a little better in autocrossing? What would I need to do to pull 1 G on a skid pad? Just a thought please comment __________________ !988 GT World Windsor Sr.'s, Harland sharpe rockers, 3.73 gears, pulleys, no ac, hurst shifter, 10:1 pistons, BBK full length headers and H-pipe with flows. Under extensive work for porting and fly cutting to accept my new cam and to match my soon to have systemax intake DROOL Best E.T. 13.20 with edelbrock RPM intake and 70mm TB

11-20-2002, 09:02 AM	#2
drudis Moderator Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Livonia, MI, USA Posts: 1,194	I am not familiar with the older suspension Mustangs, but take a look at www.griggsracing.com for some examples... __________________ Darius Rudis, Moderator Corner Carvers Delight 1989 Mustang LX - Open Track Car http://www.dariusrudis.com

11-20-2002, 11:21 PM	#3
musrcng Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Indiana Posts: 26	handling check out www.totalcontrolproducts.com they have a coil over conversion and a rack and pinion plus other goodies __________________ 1970 Mustang Mach 1 351C pushing for 500 HP LOST it in the divorce

11-21-2002, 05:15 PM	#4
vetteeatr Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Olney, Illinois, USA Posts: 212	i was reading the griggs site and htey actaulyl said the 65 to 70 models have more potential then then even the newer ones... I was wondering about wheelbase and weight. could someone explian how weight and wheelbase affects handling? __________________ !988 GT World Windsor Sr.'s, Harland sharpe rockers, 3.73 gears, pulleys, no ac, hurst shifter, 10:1 pistons, BBK full length headers and H-pipe with flows. Under extensive work for porting and fly cutting to accept my new cam and to match my soon to have systemax intake DROOL Best E.T. 13.20 with edelbrock RPM intake and 70mm TB

11-21-2002, 08:13 PM	#5
musrcng Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Indiana Posts: 26	I am no expert but I will try to help here. Weight is a big factor because the more weight you care in to a corner the harder it is to turn because that weight wants to go straight. Hence the lighter the car the easier it is to turn. That of course is simplified then you can start including weight ratio's like front engine rear wheel drive. As far as wheel base I don't think it affects it as much as front and rear overhang. You want your wheels as far out to the corners as you can get. Thats why Dodge would brag about there cars wheels being as far apart as they could be and Pontiac saying wider is better. This is an old concept though. The Mini Cooper has been doing this since the 50's. I am really starting to learn alot about road cars because I currently live in Germany and my daily driver is a Mini Chelsea and it is a blast to drive. I live in a deep valley and the roads out are steep and twisty. My wife's SHO can run uphill but as soon as it levels out I lose her quickly. Well I hope I was able to help you alittle take care and enjoy __________________ 1970 Mustang Mach 1 351C pushing for 500 HP LOST it in the divorce

11-23-2002, 12:03 AM	#6
vetteeatr Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Olney, Illinois, USA Posts: 212	ok so do you guys think it has more potential or not? So are you saying that if the 65-66 msutangs are lets say 100 lbs less but 3 inches narrower i should go with those but i could just flare my fenders and get that width back by makign the tires stick out form teh original body dimensions thus widening my width of tire by around 4 inches give or take? Also I have a really important question. I kinda wanna still eb able to take on cars on the street but if im runngin aroudn wiht 18's or so im jsutthinkign all i will do is spin with all taht power? Ive read 17's are becomign pretty common and have larger widewall on some tries makgin teh "flex" similar to a 16 inch rim. Do they even make tires that are jstu really really sticky but also are great for auto-crossing? Also i realyl kinda like the look of the tires top edge kinda beign wrapped by the fender covering it. kinda like a lowrider. But i really dont want rubbing anyone know abotu this or shoudl i egt tires first then kinda adjust? __________________ !988 GT World Windsor Sr.'s, Harland sharpe rockers, 3.73 gears, pulleys, no ac, hurst shifter, 10:1 pistons, BBK full length headers and H-pipe with flows. Under extensive work for porting and fly cutting to accept my new cam and to match my soon to have systemax intake DROOL Best E.T. 13.20 with edelbrock RPM intake and 70mm TB

12-07-2002, 09:16 PM	#7
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	A wider wheel base will essentially work like lowering your center of gravity. The lower the center of gravity, the less body roll you will have which will in turn keep all the tires planted better for more traction. Griggs seems to be the best at making killer handling components for our Mustangs so I'd check out what they have to offer in the GR350 package. I had a 65 and a 66 Mustang when I was in high school and driving those cars is a total blast. If I could find a 65-68 to build for a corner carver I would definately do it. They just feel like they are lighter than the newer Mustangs. Kind of like an overgrown go-cart. I say go for it. Then when you get it done come by and give me a ride in it __________________ Project: 1988 Coupe - EFI 5.8L Twin Turbo with Victor intake, Canfield heads, F303 cam, March aluminum underdrive pulleys, TKO (or T56 if funds permit), PBR twin piston calipers and 13" rotors up front, 94 Cobra rear calipers and 12" rotors on the rear, 3.73's, Griggs K-member, tubular front control arms, torque arm and panhard bar, polished 99 Cobra wheels. "The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance." Griggs Racing ICQ# 42269241

12-08-2002, 09:47 AM	#8
hobgoblin351 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: NYC Posts: 245	Have you read the book "how to make your car handle" ? Prety much every parts house sells it. It's a good book to start with. Now I'm reading one on chasis design. But , i cant remember the name, and it's out in the car! lol I'll get it for ya it's a really good one. I've got a 1970conv, with a boss 351. Yeah it's a brute. I'm having trouble keeping it on the road. Thus all the books on handeling. Our early Stangs suspensions although crude by todays standards have great potential. A few bolt on mods will see great results. Stiffen the frame, Export braces and monte carlo bars, sub frame connectors. They are not high tech but the less body flex you get, the more power can be put into the corner. "Boss 302 Chassis Modification" another good book. The same principles used to stiffen the 70's frame can be applied to the earlier Stangs. I didnt know this until doing alot of reading. Our solid axle lo-tech rears, when set up properly, and run on a smooth track, can put more power to the ground than all those high tech indedpenant rear suspensions! I'm now trying to figure out how to add a 4-link suspension with coil overs. I'll get this thing to pull1G in a corner yet! Good luck

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