brakes.......

dinomite · 02-21-2001, 09:29 PM

On and 87-93, any suggestions? I think that I am going to convert the rear to discs, any suggestions on kits? Also, on the front; Can I get away with just getting drilled/slotted rotors of the stock size (10in) or should I buy one of those (expensive)upgrade kits (11 or 13in), in which case I will also have to get 17in wheels (expensive)?

Thanks! Ya'll are great.

spinemup · 02-26-2001, 01:25 PM

you can upgrade the fronts for mild autocross and street by upgrading to 73mm calipers. but for heavy duty track usage your gonna have to go with a complete kit like baer or brembo or the ford m-2300-k kit.

drudis · 02-26-2001, 09:04 PM

The fronts should get the 11" upgrade, its not that big of deal.
The 73mm caliper is an "ok" idea, depending on who you ask. Sure its "better" but bang for the buck, and effort, not really IMOHO.
The rear brakes, drums gotta be converted to disks, mentality is not really true either. I race on my drum brakes for 3 years before I upgraded. Sure, they sucked, but its the fronts that do 70% of the stopping power.
Save your pennies for the M2300K brakes. These have 13" rotors and 11" rotos, and will require 17" wheels, and $$$ These are nice brakes, not as good as Brembos, which are even more!
Biggest short term gain is 11" front rotors. Then Performance Friction "Z" pads from Pep Boys or Autozone for $60. These are better than the typical $30 pads, and have a lifetime warranty (I used once/year). The last thing is VENTING. Yes, get some airducts and aim them at the rotors. This is the single largest gain on stock brakes. A fresh bleed with Ford HD brake fluid, and your set for weekend playing.

------------------
Darius Rudis
Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-)
My Mustang Page

dinomite · 02-26-2001, 10:43 PM

I saw that m2300k kit, it looks pretty complete. Is it as good as it looks? How hard is it to install? and on cooling, I think that i can rig somethign up with dryer hosing in the front, but what about the rear?

97snakedriver · 02-26-2001, 11:29 PM

The M2300K is a good kit, especially for the money. Its not particularly hard to install. Standard hand tools plus a flared nut wrench ($5 maybe), a driveway, and a weekend with good weather.

moosejaw · 02-27-2001, 02:40 AM

And a Double flaring tool and a welding machine and an additional fitting not included in the kit. Don't forget the standard drilling and tapping for various mounting brackets also.

Aside from that it is quite complete. It is certainly not for those persons who pee their pants if a brake line doesn't line up by 1/4".

Mike

Skankin · 02-27-2001, 02:44 AM

17" wheels don't have to be expensive. www.stangparts.com has take-off 99 wheels & tires for $850.

I got some 99 cobra wheels with 2 tires for $650 (2 tires were smoked)... love the wheels... now I gotta get the stuff together to get them on.

I think they've stopped making the ford conversion kit. Kinda makes sense... it's pricie... a lot of the parts are available at the wreckers... and the other stuff can be purchased over the counter.

The stock 94+ brake calipers are better than the 73mm stuff, and they have 20% more surface area too. Swap on the stock stuff with steel lines, slotted rotors & good pads, and they should be more than adequate for the light fox. The 13" cobra setup would be nice, but it'll cost you at least $500 for the rotors & calipers.

Get the 94/95 spindles... 96+ are offset, moving the wheel 1/4" out... and they might rub the fender.

Out back, 94+ mustang axles & brakes... and don't forget a master cylinder. The stock brake booster will give you some nice pedal feel, but if you think it's too firm, you can pick up the booster too...

------------------
'89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 155K Km (No winters), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, Mr. Gasket 180 therm (HP balanced), 3 core rad, MarkVIII fan, Variflow controller, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. Re-ringed bottom end, conv. motor mounts, melling oil pump, FMS-C50 waterpump, GT40P heads (blended, polli

dinomite · 02-27-2001, 03:35 PM

Thanks a lot. I will probably ask some more questions when I get all the stuff.

02-21-2001, 09:29 PM	#1
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	brakes....... On and 87-93, any suggestions? I think that I am going to convert the rear to discs, any suggestions on kits? Also, on the front; Can I get away with just getting drilled/slotted rotors of the stock size (10in) or should I buy one of those (expensive)upgrade kits (11 or 13in), in which case I will also have to get 17in wheels (expensive)? Thanks! Ya'll are great.

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02-26-2001, 01:25 PM	#2
spinemup Registered Member Join Date: May 2000 Location: middleboro,ma, usa Posts: 734	you can upgrade the fronts for mild autocross and street by upgrading to 73mm calipers. but for heavy duty track usage your gonna have to go with a complete kit like baer or brembo or the ford m-2300-k kit.

02-26-2001, 09:04 PM	#3
drudis Moderator Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Livonia, MI, USA Posts: 1,194	The fronts should get the 11" upgrade, its not that big of deal. The 73mm caliper is an "ok" idea, depending on who you ask. Sure its "better" but bang for the buck, and effort, not really IMOHO. The rear brakes, drums gotta be converted to disks, mentality is not really true either. I race on my drum brakes for 3 years before I upgraded. Sure, they sucked, but its the fronts that do 70% of the stopping power. Save your pennies for the M2300K brakes. These have 13" rotors and 11" rotos, and will require 17" wheels, and $$$ These are nice brakes, not as good as Brembos, which are even more! Biggest short term gain is 11" front rotors. Then Performance Friction "Z" pads from Pep Boys or Autozone for $60. These are better than the typical $30 pads, and have a lifetime warranty (I used once/year). The last thing is VENTING. Yes, get some airducts and aim them at the rotors. This is the single largest gain on stock brakes. A fresh bleed with Ford HD brake fluid, and your set for weekend playing. ------------------ Darius Rudis Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-) My Mustang Page

02-26-2001, 10:43 PM	#4
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	I saw that m2300k kit, it looks pretty complete. Is it as good as it looks? How hard is it to install? and on cooling, I think that i can rig somethign up with dryer hosing in the front, but what about the rear?

02-26-2001, 11:29 PM	#5
97snakedriver Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Blacksburg, VA Posts: 1,526	The M2300K is a good kit, especially for the money. Its not particularly hard to install. Standard hand tools plus a flared nut wrench ($5 maybe), a driveway, and a weekend with good weather.

02-27-2001, 02:40 AM	#6
moosejaw Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: St.Louis,MO Posts: 274	And a Double flaring tool and a welding machine and an additional fitting not included in the kit. Don't forget the standard drilling and tapping for various mounting brackets also. Aside from that it is quite complete. It is certainly not for those persons who pee their pants if a brake line doesn't line up by 1/4". Mike

02-27-2001, 02:44 AM	#7
Skankin Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,349	17" wheels don't have to be expensive. www.stangparts.com has take-off 99 wheels & tires for $850. I got some 99 cobra wheels with 2 tires for $650 (2 tires were smoked)... love the wheels... now I gotta get the stuff together to get them on. I think they've stopped making the ford conversion kit. Kinda makes sense... it's pricie... a lot of the parts are available at the wreckers... and the other stuff can be purchased over the counter. The stock 94+ brake calipers are better than the 73mm stuff, and they have 20% more surface area too. Swap on the stock stuff with steel lines, slotted rotors & good pads, and they should be more than adequate for the light fox. The 13" cobra setup would be nice, but it'll cost you at least $500 for the rotors & calipers. Get the 94/95 spindles... 96+ are offset, moving the wheel 1/4" out... and they might rub the fender. Out back, 94+ mustang axles & brakes... and don't forget a master cylinder. The stock brake booster will give you some nice pedal feel, but if you think it's too firm, you can pick up the booster too... ------------------ '89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 155K Km (No winters), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, Mr. Gasket 180 therm (HP balanced), 3 core rad, MarkVIII fan, Variflow controller, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. Re-ringed bottom end, conv. motor mounts, melling oil pump, FMS-C50 waterpump, GT40P heads (blended, polli

02-27-2001, 03:35 PM	#8
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	Thanks a lot. I will probably ask some more questions when I get all the stuff.