Drum Brakes question...

Power · 05-19-2001, 01:35 PM

Being as I am in the military and don't have too much available to me at my house, I called to see how much it would cost have my brakes re-done at a local Midas. They quoted me over $300 to do the brakes. Is this a reasonable price or should I just quit being lazy and do it myself. I was just dreading having to jack each corner and then fight the drums. Anybody else ever heard of a price for this??

Rev · 05-19-2001, 02:01 PM

Seems high to me Power. But I haven't paid to have a brake job done for a long time. Unless you have to have a new drum, master cylinder, or wheel cylinders, I can't see why it would be that high. Why don't you get another estimate at Brake Check or some place like that?

Rev

------------------
'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

Power · 05-20-2001, 12:35 AM

I'll try calling a few more places and see what they say. I'll probably end up just doing it myself though. Its just such a headache to do with limited resources and neighbors turning you in after your allotted 1 hour a day of vehicle maintence. I think the MP's have been to my house average of about every other weekend.

Same old story, spilled a little fluid there, someone complained about the noise, etc. Whiny bitches that live around here....

Mercury · 05-20-2001, 12:38 AM

Actually if you needed new drums and/or mastercylinder, the cost to have any shop do it would be ridicouls. I had to get new drums all around for mmy 64 1/2. There were worn WAY past minimum thickness, like 120 thousandths wear.

Drums alone cost me 145 dollars, and I did the work myself. If you throw in the usual 15% mark up, and labor, it would probably be close to 400$.

Do the brake job yourself, but check your drums closely to see what the wear is on them. I have seen a drum break apart before, it was so worn and it cracked, then broke to pieces when the braked were applied. Also be weary of those damn star adjusters.

------------------
64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, 3:1 rear gear. Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 windsor valves, 11:1 comp, 1.7:1 sled rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, modified autolite 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. And to many others to list

2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. BBK Underdrive pulleys, Flotech off-road H pipe. Hurst T-Handle

64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. Auto. project car.

Power · 05-20-2001, 12:42 AM

I wanted to do the drum to disk conversion but was told I had to have 15" or greater wheels to do it. I only have 14's on there now and don't want to blow the money on the Torque Thrust II's yet. Have to do other stuff to the car first. I found a kit that will do it on www.mustangsplus.com for only $860, but I still need those bigger rims. Oh well, I guess I'll wait a little longer......

Rev · 05-20-2001, 01:34 AM

Power, I got a front disk (Granada) conversion kit from Jim's Mustangs in El Cajon Ca. New MC, rotors, pads, lines, and proportioning valve. Did need one mod for safety (e-mail me). All for about $600. I did get 15" steel rims from little local Mexican tire shops. 6" for the front and 6 1/2" for the rear. $10 a piece. I ordered BFG radial TA's from the Tire Rack. 215/60/15's for the front and 235/60/15's for the rear. Minor massaging needed at the rear to prevent tire rub. Painted the rims glossy black, chrome trim rings from Pep Boys, and chrome lug nuts. Looks pretty nice and not too much $$$. I like how mine turned out.

Rev

------------------
'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

05-19-2001, 01:35 PM	#1
Power Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Oregon Posts: 420	Drum Brakes question... Being as I am in the military and don't have too much available to me at my house, I called to see how much it would cost have my brakes re-done at a local Midas. They quoted me over $300 to do the brakes. Is this a reasonable price or should I just quit being lazy and do it myself. I was just dreading having to jack each corner and then fight the drums. Anybody else ever heard of a price for this??

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05-19-2001, 02:01 PM	#2
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Seems high to me Power. But I haven't paid to have a brake job done for a long time. Unless you have to have a new drum, master cylinder, or wheel cylinders, I can't see why it would be that high. Why don't you get another estimate at Brake Check or some place like that? Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph 1/4 mi.

05-20-2001, 12:35 AM	#3
Power Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Oregon Posts: 420	I'll try calling a few more places and see what they say. I'll probably end up just doing it myself though. Its just such a headache to do with limited resources and neighbors turning you in after your allotted 1 hour a day of vehicle maintence. I think the MP's have been to my house average of about every other weekend. Same old story, spilled a little fluid there, someone complained about the noise, etc. Whiny bitches that live around here....

05-20-2001, 12:38 AM	#4
Mercury The Redneck James Bond Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Fayetteville NC Posts: 1,707	Actually if you needed new drums and/or mastercylinder, the cost to have any shop do it would be ridicouls. I had to get new drums all around for mmy 64 1/2. There were worn WAY past minimum thickness, like 120 thousandths wear. Drums alone cost me 145 dollars, and I did the work myself. If you throw in the usual 15% mark up, and labor, it would probably be close to 400$. Do the brake job yourself, but check your drums closely to see what the wear is on them. I have seen a drum break apart before, it was so worn and it cracked, then broke to pieces when the braked were applied. Also be weary of those damn star adjusters. ------------------ 64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, 3:1 rear gear. Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 windsor valves, 11:1 comp, 1.7:1 sled rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, modified autolite 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. And to many others to list 2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. BBK Underdrive pulleys, Flotech off-road H pipe. Hurst T-Handle 64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. Auto. project car.

05-20-2001, 12:42 AM	#5
Power Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Oregon Posts: 420	I wanted to do the drum to disk conversion but was told I had to have 15" or greater wheels to do it. I only have 14's on there now and don't want to blow the money on the Torque Thrust II's yet. Have to do other stuff to the car first. I found a kit that will do it on www.mustangsplus.com for only $860, but I still need those bigger rims. Oh well, I guess I'll wait a little longer......

05-20-2001, 01:34 AM	#6
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Power, I got a front disk (Granada) conversion kit from Jim's Mustangs in El Cajon Ca. New MC, rotors, pads, lines, and proportioning valve. Did need one mod for safety (e-mail me). All for about $600. I did get 15" steel rims from little local Mexican tire shops. 6" for the front and 6 1/2" for the rear. $10 a piece. I ordered BFG radial TA's from the Tire Rack. 215/60/15's for the front and 235/60/15's for the rear. Minor massaging needed at the rear to prevent tire rub. Painted the rims glossy black, chrome trim rings from Pep Boys, and chrome lug nuts. Looks pretty nice and not too much $$$. I like how mine turned out. Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph 1/4 mi.