i'd like to hear your advise
 

i plan on trying solo II auto cross w/ my car and plan on improving the handling. here is what i'd like to do, eibachs, adjustable shocks all around, mm adj. lca's, and mm panhard bar. will i really need camber plates? how the heck do i set them right? should i ditch the 50/50 shocks i have now on the rear? any other suggestions would be appreciated.

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http://www.designstudioz.com/downloads/spinemup03.gif

91 lx NOTCHBACK 30k orig. miles
3:73, 190lph, 1 5/8 hdrs.,
flows, subs, k-mem. and strut
brace, 2 1/2 cowl, pro 5.0,
centerforce clutch, factory
ac delete, oil cooler,accufab reg.
edel heads, 2040 cam, cobra intake.
and nitto dr's.
3200# w/ me in it
13.3 @ 104 mph
2.03 60'
http://smilecwm.tripod.com/net2/burnout.gif

DECIDE ON A PLAN. What you wanna do and spend. Many people start throwing parts at a car as they accumulate a little money... Dont.
Get a plan, and stick to it. I would recommend something like Maximum Motorsports or Kenny Brown (Griggs and IPS... too specific to racing and expensive).
Go with a "package" from one company. You'll be surprised and what you'll get, but you gotta spend a few bucks to get there.

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Darius Rudis
Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-)
My Mustang Page

the h+r springs that come with the package, are they good?

Yes. I have "heard" many good things about these springs, and never any bad feedback. I personally have had the Eibach, but the HR are a great spring too.

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Darius Rudis
Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-)
My Mustang Page

ive got an oppertunity to get some 400lb/in
specific rate fronts for free with 160 rears should i bother trying them?

The IPS sport front UCA's are a fair price at $600 + shocks.

These will give you some camber while turning (instead of taking it away), and GREATLY reduce understeer. The sport package uses the stock lowers control arms, springs, spindles etc...

I'm thinking about it myself. When you consider $200 for CC plates, and $100 for a strut tower brace (both of which you won't need), you're already half way to the price of something A LOT better.

The next step up is $2000, and you get the coil overs, K-member, lower control arms, etc... but ya, I think that price is a little steep.

I'd really like to get rid of the stock UCA's in the back, but there really isn't a cheap alternative. I'm thinking about making up some parallel uppers myself, and then using a panhard for lateral location.

For the rear LCA's, I think the www.wmsracing.com or granatelli/ground pounder arms are the best. Both have weight jackers, spherical bearings on the chassis end, and urethane on the axle end. The GP's are $285, and the WMS's are $335 (but you get anti-squat brackets).

I'm always diss'n the stock UCA's cause of their high roll centre and aweful brake jacking... but as I said, there isn't a cheap fix.

Now I'm thinking that the high roll centre really isn't a huge problem for a street car (especially if the front will handle the roll).

So I'm really considering the IPS sport front, and some WMS control arms for the rear (the anti-squat brackets reduce brake jacking as well). The control arms will allow me to remove the quad shocks, so it should articulate quite freely (with the spherical bearing as well). A panhard won't be necessary, but will still be an option if I get more serious in the future.

$600 on the front, $335 on the rear... not too costly, and probably better than 98% of the stangs on the road.

But, I've already got the WMS subs, MM chassis brace and urethane bushings up front...

I've also got the FMS-B springs (430-530fronts, 200-300rears) which will do for now, but I may eventually go for something a little stiffer.

The 400 & 160 springs are more suited to the drag strip (they're slightly lighter than stock!).

So I think that'll be this winter's project... after that it'll be wheel's and tires (possibly brakes if I go the SN95 route).

DONT!!! 400# & 160#.

Stock is 430-550 fronts and like 180-220 rear. You want a firmer ride, get 10% stiffer which is 450-580 & 200-250 like Eibach "Street" (or whatever they call them) or the HR ones...

I started with the Eibach ones, then moved to 650# linears. And maybe (if all goes well) I will get the 400# coilover (800# equivalent) ones. I have 350# rears (different for t-arms suspensions) and may move to 400# rears.

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Darius Rudis
Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-)
My Mustang Page

im ordering the new kyb adjustable struts today, still not sure about springs though

Man u must have money to burn, you r allways gettin toy!

Let us know how they feel and if they are worth it

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94 Convertable 5.0, AODE, B&M Shift+ kit, March pullies, K&N/fresh air, Flowmasters, 373s, bla, bla, bla And spelling impaired :D

Save your money now and wait till you can afford some Konis or Tokiko Illuminas. I install some KYBs and now will have to spend more money getting the Konis because if you go with some stiffer springs you need better shocks to keep up with it. The KYBs are okay for stock suspensions but thats about it. I wish I got some Konis...