k members

DirtKing · 02-21-2001, 11:15 PM

Which k members and control arms do you guys like and why?...I've always felt griggs was great, but there are soo many options now I would think some of the others are pretty competitive. I wonder why griggs won't lower their price a little just to stay in the game.

------------------
88LX notch, Speedpro EFI Procharged!

drudis · 02-26-2001, 01:00 PM

I personally feel that Griggs is the best for roadrace applications. Sure there are others, that are great for drage racing, and street use.
Griggs does a LOT of tech support for their customers, and pay their engineers to design new equipment. Not just have someone like Granitelli rip off their design and have it mass-produced by some welding monkeys.

My GRIGGS unit going in: http://members.mustangworks.com/drudis/mustang/griggs/

------------------
Darius Rudis
Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-)
My Mustang Page

Skankin · 02-27-2001, 02:32 AM

I definitely wouldn't go with a stock geometry setup (Yes, some of them are).

Griggs has been proven on the track... they move the control arms 2" up, so the lca's aren't angled (when it's lowered)... this moves the front roll centre UP, which is important on this front heavy car with crappy suspension.

They move the LCA's forward... gives you more caster (better steering feel, less wandering, and less camber loss in the corner)... it also improves the weight distribution (slightly).

They move the rack 1/2" back, to improve ackerman, and reduce bump steer.

Granatelli/ground pounder did the same... and their's is cheaper...

MM is supposedly releasing one soon... Similar specs, but it's not any lighter than the stock k-member, but you can use the stock lca's and springs (or so I've heard).

Another alternative is www.ajeracing.com dropped spindles with struts & cc plates. Less work... similar cost & benefits.

------------------
'89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 155K Km (No winters), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, Mr. Gasket 180 therm (HP balanced), 3 core rad, MarkVIII fan, Variflow controller, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. Re-ringed bottom end, conv. motor mounts, melling oil pump, FMS-C50 waterpump, GT40P heads (blended, polli

dinomite · 02-27-2001, 03:44 PM

How hard is a new k member to install? I am planning on putting one in an 87-93, and will have the engine out at some point. Should I wait till then?

Skankin · 02-28-2001, 03:44 PM

Also, Griggs adds more anti-dive... and the geometry change requires different control arms (you can use stock lca's with the GP).

drudis · 03-01-2001, 02:52 PM

>...should i wait till motor out..

Sure. But, you can do it with the motor in the car too. My friend bought a 4x4 lumber piece and cut the ends off to _just_ fit and rest on the fenders of the engine compartment. Using the cut-off pieces for a wider support.
I am doing mine with an engine hoist. Yeah, its more of a pain to have those legs under there.
Either way.
p.s. Check out my "current" (getting closer) K-member install photos off my homepage.

------------------
Darius Rudis
Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-)
My Mustang Page

02-21-2001, 11:15 PM	#1
DirtKing Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: brooklyn center,mn,USA Posts: 169	k members Which k members and control arms do you guys like and why?...I've always felt griggs was great, but there are soo many options now I would think some of the others are pretty competitive. I wonder why griggs won't lower their price a little just to stay in the game. ------------------ 88LX notch, Speedpro EFI Procharged!

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02-26-2001, 01:00 PM	#2
drudis Moderator Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Livonia, MI, USA Posts: 1,194	I personally feel that Griggs is the best for roadrace applications. Sure there are others, that are great for drage racing, and street use. Griggs does a LOT of tech support for their customers, and pay their engineers to design new equipment. Not just have someone like Granitelli rip off their design and have it mass-produced by some welding monkeys. My GRIGGS unit going in: http://members.mustangworks.com/drudis/mustang/griggs/ ------------------ Darius Rudis Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-) My Mustang Page

02-27-2001, 02:32 AM	#3
Skankin Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,349	I definitely wouldn't go with a stock geometry setup (Yes, some of them are). Griggs has been proven on the track... they move the control arms 2" up, so the lca's aren't angled (when it's lowered)... this moves the front roll centre UP, which is important on this front heavy car with crappy suspension. They move the LCA's forward... gives you more caster (better steering feel, less wandering, and less camber loss in the corner)... it also improves the weight distribution (slightly). They move the rack 1/2" back, to improve ackerman, and reduce bump steer. Granatelli/ground pounder did the same... and their's is cheaper... MM is supposedly releasing one soon... Similar specs, but it's not any lighter than the stock k-member, but you can use the stock lca's and springs (or so I've heard). Another alternative is www.ajeracing.com dropped spindles with struts & cc plates. Less work... similar cost & benefits. ------------------ '89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 155K Km (No winters), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, Mr. Gasket 180 therm (HP balanced), 3 core rad, MarkVIII fan, Variflow controller, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. Re-ringed bottom end, conv. motor mounts, melling oil pump, FMS-C50 waterpump, GT40P heads (blended, polli

02-27-2001, 03:44 PM	#4
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	How hard is a new k member to install? I am planning on putting one in an 87-93, and will have the engine out at some point. Should I wait till then?

02-28-2001, 03:44 PM	#5
Skankin Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,349	Also, Griggs adds more anti-dive... and the geometry change requires different control arms (you can use stock lca's with the GP).

03-01-2001, 02:52 PM	#6
drudis Moderator Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Livonia, MI, USA Posts: 1,194	>...should i wait till motor out.. Sure. But, you can do it with the motor in the car too. My friend bought a 4x4 lumber piece and cut the ends off to _just_ fit and rest on the fenders of the engine compartment. Using the cut-off pieces for a wider support. I am doing mine with an engine hoist. Yeah, its more of a pain to have those legs under there. Either way. p.s. Check out my "current" (getting closer) K-member install photos off my homepage. ------------------ Darius Rudis Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-) My Mustang Page