Lateral location of rear axle
 

I think GW lowers are the cheapest, quickest bandaid fix, but I'm looking for more.

I'd like to lower the rear roll centre (to match the front), run a heavier spring (so I stop bottoming out), and get rid of the inclined uppers (hate the brake jacking).

New Steeda 5-link? NO! $995 for two uppers and a panhard bar is way TOO much. What are these guys thinking? Sure you have to consider engineering as well as material cost, but this thing just isn't at the forefront of technology.
www.ipschassis.com has the Shaw link & uppers for $895... but it wouldn't be any better. You'd wanna go with the coil over's for a total of $1350, and get the whole reactive kinematic thing... This would really kick, but again, it's a little pricie on a student budget.

The griggs torque arm & panhard for $849 isn't a bad route either. I do question the added weight, and I think the torque arm is really more suited to the 1320 (4 parallel bars should reduce rear steer).

Again, I'm considering fabrication (parallel 4 and a panhard)... any other ideas? Comments?

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'89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 150K Km (No winters), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, Mr. Gasket 180 therm (HP balanced), 3 core rad, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. Re-ringed bottom end, melling oil pump, FMS-C50 waterpump, GT40P heads (blended, pollished, milled .03"), Explorer intake (pollished & port matched), Manley Race Flow Valves, FMS ceramic headers (2 head gaskets & Accel P526S plug for #8 cyl.), Taylor 90* wires with sleeves, Crane 1.7rr, 2031 cam and fuel pressure regulator (43PSI), fabricated ram air and strut mounts.

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The lower control arms don't do much of anything for lateral location. They're at a 90 degree angle to the direction of the motion you are trying to control. Its like tying to hold a weight in your hand while holding your arm straight out. That's why the upper control arms are at an angle.

The best way is the panhard rod/torque arm setup. With that setup the control arms (panhard rods and torque arms) are located on the same line as the motion they are trying to control. The torque arm keeps the axle from rotating forward, the panhard keeps the axle from moving laterly. Instead of holding your arm out straight, its like pushing something away from you like you're bench pressing it.

You're 4 parallel and panhard combo would do about the same thing. I guess it depends on how well you can fabricate it and how much it will cost to do it.

Oh yeah. If you decide to go with a panhard rod with stock style upper control arms, make sure you put soft bushings on the uppers or you will bind.

The GW lowers have the del-alum bushing that DOES do a decent job of lateral location (obviously there's some bind associated with it though).

Check out the 4 link for $400, or with a panhard and coil overs for $785
http://www.artmorrison.com/

This is a sensible product. Much more adjustability than the steeda kit, and less than half the price! I'd like a longer/beefier panhard though.

It's not mustang specific though, so it probably wouldn't be much more work to fabricate your own (at half that price).

If you can make your own, its always cheaper.

I'd stay away from the real hard LCA bushings. It may locate the axle fairly well, but the binding will negate any advantage.

The 4-link looks interesting, but I would have to see how it works on an actual car before I would put too much on it.

Steeda is pricey, but you deffently know that it will work, and that they will suport it.

The 4 link is used on most race cars, often with a Watts link... although some oval track cars will use a panhard bar and take advantage of it's asymetrical operation.

It's funny how the GR40 has gained such a road-handler following... I guess it works well, but the torque arm's roots are at the drag.

That link above has rear coil-overs for $245... not a bad price.

The Steeda suspension was designed (and sold to Steeda) by a friend of mine. Its a GREAT suspension. I built my own t-arm/panhard suspension (check out my sig).
As for whats best, you decide. I personally like the 3-link, but you _really_ gotta know what you are doing to get it right. The t-arm/panhard is more forgiving. The parallel arms (sort'a a NASCAR) design are ok.
Its all up to you to decide, but make sure that they are STOUT pieces. I have seen too many catastrophic failures (I got lucky when mine broke) with nearly totalled vehicles.
Also, get a "package". Dont do GW arms and Steeda panhard and Griggs t-arm and... THey wont work correctly when all put together.

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Darius Rudis
Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-)
My Mustang Page

The Steeda 5 link came from John Buscema and 200 mph Cobra, didn't it?

If it can handle that sort of stress, then it will handle pretty much what ever anyone else would ever put it through.

The steeda stuff certainly looks stout, and a heck of a lot better than a lot of the aftermarket stuff (some of which doesn't appear to have any 'engineering').

Price and performance are probably comparable with griggs... I just think it's a little overpriced.

I agree its overpriced (like most everything). All I will say is that "Rob" (not John) designed it. I race with him with the SAAC-MCR club at Waterford Hills Road Course, MI.
The nicest part about his design, is that it is VERY easy to install. He made use of bolts/holes/frame... to align the whole thing. You dont need a pro shop to install it.

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Darius Rudis
Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-)
My Mustang Page

What's Steeda asking for it? $1000 or so?

shankin
DECH has a nice 4 link step, i've seen it in action - guy in solo1 has it and it seems to work real well.
Costs about $680 and DECH will install for $300. Looks real nice too, and by geometry should outperform the panhard setup.
just my .02

Does Dech still have a website?

I remember they have a really odd lateral locator (some secret/proprietary information). If I remember correctly, they do use some pretty stiff rear springs too...

Do they change location (inclination) of the uppers?

Are they still using those big anti-squat brackets?

It is an odd setup but i think it works well. Yes he does tend to use a little too stiff springs for my liking (even for fast road courses). Here is the number if you want to call, he could answer questions better than me905-738-9622. Sorry i couldnt be more help.

No, that's cool... I kinda forgot about them.
I'll have to look into it.

Back to steeda:
Have you read the sept. 5.0 article? I think there's a mistake in the UCA discussion. It's got the two adjustment points, and it says you get less rear brake jacking if the arms are inclined (sloping up to the front).

I'm pretty sure they got it backwards, but if they didn't, can someone explain that one?

Came across the Dech web site:

Seems to be trouble with the new site: www.dechmotorsport.com

Here's the old: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/L...0/pricing.html