new eibach sportlines, need to adjust caster camber!
 

how the heck can i do this at home, so im safe on the street for now? the tires squat out like crazy now the tires look like this... / \

im getting motorsport plates today, how can i adjust them acurately? just take a carpenter's bubble to the tire untill its straight up and down?

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91 lx NOTCHBACK 30k orig. miles
3:73, 190lph, 1 5/8 hdrs.,
flows, subs, k-mem. and strut
brace, kyb agx all around 2 1/2 cowl,
pro 5.0, eibach sportlines,
centerforce clutch, factory
ac delete, oil cooler,accufab reg.
edel heads, 2040 cam, cobra intake.
and nitto dr's.
3200# w/ me in it
13.3 @ 104 mph
2.03 60'
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This is one of those things I leave to a specialist.

The steering linkage (tie rod end) doesn't swing through the same arc as the lower control arm either (this causes bump steer). Consequently, you toe-in has probably changed (which could REALLY wear your tires). I like the stock spec (1/16" toe-IN I think)... gives you some high speed stability. Some corner carvers will go for toe-out... for better turnin.

The mod-mac-strut setup looses camber in a corner, so it's good to have some static -ve camber.

If you do highway driving, I recommend -.8 to -1.0 degrees... any more, and you'll wear the inside of your tires.

Corner carvers may go for -3 degrees, but you'll really wear the inside of your tires. If you do go to an open track event, you could easily move each strut inward the same amount, just to give you the camber for the event. Braking will suffer, and handling may not be familiar, so it may not be the best idea either.

As for caster, slam the plates back, and get as much as you can.

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'89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 150K Km (No winters), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, Mr. Gasket 180 therm (HP balanced), 3 core rad, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. Re-ringed bottom end, melling oil pump, FMS-C50 waterpump, GT40P heads (blended, pollished, milled .03"), Explorer intake (pollished & port matched), Manley Race Flow Valves, FMS ceramic headers (2 head gaskets & Accel P526S plug for #8 cyl.), Taylor 90* wires with sleeves, Crane 1.7rr, 2031 cam and fuel pressure regulator (43PSI), fabricated ram air and strut mounts.

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im more worried about caster, do i measure camber while the wheel is on the ground or do i jack the car up remove the wheel and the put my makeshift protractor on the hub? what do u mean by "slam the caster back" do you mean push the plates all the way towards the firewall?

Yes, slam the caster plates as far back as they go towards the firewall.
Camber may be adjusted with a bubble gauge. You can get a simple 2 foot carpenter's level. Drill/tap two screws 17" apart (for a 17" wheel). These two points will rest on the wheel, and yet clear the tires. Now you adjust the ONE screw to a desired height (so on a vertical plane, it is like 87 degrees when you place it against the wall). Using trigonometry you can calculate the Tan=Sin/Cos of the angle and get the height to adjust the screw... Then simply make the bubble balance right in the middle, and you have "x" degrees of camber.
Seen it done, yet to do it myself. I take mine to an "old fashioned" garage (no computers) and have them do it for me, with me in the pit alongside them giving them the specs as WE align it together.

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Darius Rudis
Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-)
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