performance mods

froadin4rnr · 10-30-2001, 12:46 AM

asking a few questions for a friend.....
Vehicle: 95 mustang GT (auto), stock except for catback exhaust.
Question 1: What would be the best engine performance upgrades for the money??
he was thinking cold air induction and K&N, are they better items that you can get more bang for your buck??
Question 2: What do you guys think it would cost to swap out his auto for a manual?? i told him if he was gonna do thta to just buy another car.... what do you guys think??
-Carl

Mustang_289 · 10-30-2001, 08:53 AM

1) Good upgrades that don't cost an arm&leg are new pullies, simply adding K&N and removing the breather silencer is another quick upgrade. A little more costly would be to upgrade the rear gears and NOS. Don't know what sort of budget your friend has for upgrades. These are the cheapest, easiest to bolt on for some quick added HP to fly-wheel.

2) You may want to see if you can find a donor car that's been crashed to get everything you need for manual trans.

Mr 5 0 · 10-30-2001, 10:54 AM

Best simple engine upgrades are (as 289 stated) underdrive pullies (about $100.) and cold air induction is good but expensive for the tiny gain you get (minimum of $100.).
Advancing the ignition timing (14 or 16 degrees) is free and can make a noticable difference from the stock 10 degree timing.
Beyond that, installing an H-pipe is a good power modification if emissions isn't an issue for him. Cost around $100. If it is, a low-restriction cat system works well but costs a lot more; around $300.

Not an engine modifcation, but better rear gears are a baseline Mustang 5.0 mod. 3.73's are the gear of choice, possbly 4.10's for an AOD-equipped Mustang to compensate for the crappy trans gearing and power loss through the tight converter.

Converting to stick costs around $2,000. This assumes a new T-5 and shifter (about $1,200.) as well as a new clutch, PP, bearings, flywheel and clutch adjuster (another $400.) Pedals, bellhousing and other parts that fill out the list can be bought used at a junk yard.

It's been done many times. The AOD will crap out if it's pushed too hard so either way, your bud will have to spend some money if he wants to race it, much less make it quicker.

haulin'balz · 10-30-2001, 02:55 PM

I'd tell your friend to go w/ the pulleys, gears (3.73 for manual and 4.10 for auto) and a K&N filter - the stock box is basically a "cold air induction kit". As long as he's got a kicka$$ stall converter his auto will be plenty fine. The auto would be better too if he plans on bracket racing it.

------------------
'90 5.0 LX - heads, intake, cam, fuel delivery, gears, full exhaust, pulleys, ignition, drag springs, front brake upgrade, a/c delete, K&N cone filter charger, Corbeau racing seats
1/4 mile: 12.29 @115
60': 1.78

stock89 · 10-31-2001, 09:43 PM

I've heard many people talk about the breather silencer. Some have told me all it does is add 1-2 HP and the effect is more psychological b/c you hear more of the air intake. Where would I hunt this silencer monster, and what's the best kill method? Just disconnect it and leave it hanging, or plug it up? What's the "real deal"?

------------------
89 LX 5.0 Notchback, near showroom condition, Flowmasters (my dream since 16)
98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 (Very rare and hence a driveway princess), 90 VW Jetta Diesel (200K, 45 MPG and all hers), 87 Cutlass (mine) 84 Cutlass (170K of faithful service)87 Bayliner 2250 Cuddy

fiveohpatrol · 10-31-2001, 10:08 PM

free hp is free hp, are you gonna complain about a 2hp gain if all you do is spend 15minutes on it? i didnt think so

the process step by step is...
1. remove the big black intake tube from the air filter box

2. remove the cover of the box that's held by clamps, inside it you will see some bolts holding it to the inner fender, remove these

3. you should now be able to see silencer INSIDE the fender, i think there're 3 or 4 bolts holding it on, remove them and snake the think out from underneath the car

4. go drink a beer and brag to your friends that your mustang is modified

hope i didnt make it too kindergarten-ish

------------------
88 Notch, B&M Ripper, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, full exhaust,65mm TB, Nitto DR's, new best 1/4--> 13.42@106.18 (1.89 short time)

10-30-2001, 12:46 AM	#1
froadin4rnr Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: oceano, Ca Posts: 1	performance mods asking a few questions for a friend..... Vehicle: 95 mustang GT (auto), stock except for catback exhaust. Question 1: What would be the best engine performance upgrades for the money?? he was thinking cold air induction and K&N, are they better items that you can get more bang for your buck?? Question 2: What do you guys think it would cost to swap out his auto for a manual?? i told him if he was gonna do thta to just buy another car.... what do you guys think?? -Carl

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10-30-2001, 08:53 AM	#2
Mustang_289 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Posts: 512	1) Good upgrades that don't cost an arm&leg are new pullies, simply adding K&N and removing the breather silencer is another quick upgrade. A little more costly would be to upgrade the rear gears and NOS. Don't know what sort of budget your friend has for upgrades. These are the cheapest, easiest to bolt on for some quick added HP to fly-wheel. 2) You may want to see if you can find a donor car that's been crashed to get everything you need for manual trans.

10-30-2001, 10:54 AM	#3
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	Best simple engine upgrades are (as 289 stated) underdrive pullies (about $100.) and cold air induction is good but expensive for the tiny gain you get (minimum of $100.). Advancing the ignition timing (14 or 16 degrees) is free and can make a noticable difference from the stock 10 degree timing. Beyond that, installing an H-pipe is a good power modification if emissions isn't an issue for him. Cost around $100. If it is, a low-restriction cat system works well but costs a lot more; around $300. Not an engine modifcation, but better rear gears are a baseline Mustang 5.0 mod. 3.73's are the gear of choice, possbly 4.10's for an AOD-equipped Mustang to compensate for the crappy trans gearing and power loss through the tight converter. Converting to stick costs around $2,000. This assumes a new T-5 and shifter (about $1,200.) as well as a new clutch, PP, bearings, flywheel and clutch adjuster (another $400.) Pedals, bellhousing and other parts that fill out the list can be bought used at a junk yard. It's been done many times. The AOD will crap out if it's pushed too hard so either way, your bud will have to spend some money if he wants to race it, much less make it quicker.

10-30-2001, 02:55 PM	#4
haulin'balz The Notorious One Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: NY Posts: 51	I'd tell your friend to go w/ the pulleys, gears (3.73 for manual and 4.10 for auto) and a K&N filter - the stock box is basically a "cold air induction kit". As long as he's got a kicka$$ stall converter his auto will be plenty fine. The auto would be better too if he plans on bracket racing it. ------------------ '90 5.0 LX - heads, intake, cam, fuel delivery, gears, full exhaust, pulleys, ignition, drag springs, front brake upgrade, a/c delete, K&N cone filter charger, Corbeau racing seats 1/4 mile: 12.29 @115 60': 1.78

10-31-2001, 09:43 PM	#5
stock89 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Mannheim, Germany Posts: 124	I've heard many people talk about the breather silencer. Some have told me all it does is add 1-2 HP and the effect is more psychological b/c you hear more of the air intake. Where would I hunt this silencer monster, and what's the best kill method? Just disconnect it and leave it hanging, or plug it up? What's the "real deal"? ------------------ 89 LX 5.0 Notchback, near showroom condition, Flowmasters (my dream since 16) 98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 (Very rare and hence a driveway princess), 90 VW Jetta Diesel (200K, 45 MPG and all hers), 87 Cutlass (mine) 84 Cutlass (170K of faithful service)87 Bayliner 2250 Cuddy

10-31-2001, 10:08 PM	#6
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	free hp is free hp, are you gonna complain about a 2hp gain if all you do is spend 15minutes on it? i didnt think so the process step by step is... 1. remove the big black intake tube from the air filter box 2. remove the cover of the box that's held by clamps, inside it you will see some bolts holding it to the inner fender, remove these 3. you should now be able to see silencer INSIDE the fender, i think there're 3 or 4 bolts holding it on, remove them and snake the think out from underneath the car 4. go drink a beer and brag to your friends that your mustang is modified hope i didnt make it too kindergarten-ish ------------------ 88 Notch, B&M Ripper, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, full exhaust,65mm TB, Nitto DR's, new best 1/4--> 13.42@106.18 (1.89 short time)