Lowering springs
Has anybody out there cut there factory springs to lower their car slightly?.and if so how much coil did you cut.
------------------ B.R. L.X. 5.0 coupe Cruise control,power mirrors,...and Thats it! |
Oooh, as far as I know, thats a bad idea cause the factory springs are progressive, but someone else probably knows better than I.
------------------ 90LX AOD Convertable: Lakewood control arms, FMS springs. Best 1/4: 15.277@92.25 (2.27 60') |
I have a book, "Chassis Engineering" by Herb Adams which for Mustangs, other he makes that suggestion is a very good book. Its a bad idea for Mustangs because they come with soft springs and stiff sway bars. You're better off going with stiffer and lower springs for better handling, plus they aren't very expensive for Mustangs anyway.
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If you want to try it, do it anyway from what I've heard it doesn't work. But trying you would just lose the work.
Get a "C" springs with rears cutted one loop lito ------------------ 92GT, SOLO RACER, COBRA BRAKES, R1 TIRES, GT40, GT40X HEADS 58CC, 24LBS, 70MM/65MM, E303, MAC 1"5/8 LT HEADERS, 3" XPIPE AND EXHAUST W/CUT OFFS, 4.10, H&R 950-1050 SPRINGS, BILSTEIN SHOCKS, MM PANHARD AND TA, MANY ROAD RACE MODS, CORVETTE, CAMARO, RX7 AND SUPRA SOLO EVENT EATER www.killersracing.com www.clubcopa.com <IMG SRC="http://www.killersracing.com/lito/mustan |
Dont cut springs.
You may be cutting off the variable rate portion of the spring, and thus hurting ride. Also, the spring will be too soft at the new height, and will bottom out more often. BUY some new H&R or Eibach springs (more expensive ones, see other posts) and be done with it. Finally, if you do cut the springs, use a cutoff tool. Not a hacksaw (takes forever), or a torch (cause the heat will ruin a psring and make it sag over time). ------------------ Darius Rudis Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-) My Mustang Page |
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