Fuel injection load problem

Mountain Main · 03-12-2003, 06:27 PM

My car is having problems. I have and 89 5.0 LX Mustang. I can start the car when I pull the car into a garage and hook the battery charger up to it. It will start up and stay running at idle, but as soon as I rev the car up to 5,000 RPM's the computer shuts down the car. I believe the cars not reading load properly

I adjusted the fuel pressure regulator and it is good and working in its ranges. The car has a new fuel pump. I put new plugs and new wires on that night. The cap is six months old. I pulled the TFI module and had that tested. Napa said it was no good.

So I bought a new TFI Module and the same problem. I have hooked up the scanner and did a key on engine running test. The scanner says all systems are good. I put a new MSD TFI Coil in the car. I thought it was the stator and I tested that, it was good.

I tested the throttle position sensor and it is good. It is perfect in the ranges. I did two of the tests for the wiring to the Mass Air flow and so far it is good. I believe the wire that I need to test the Mass Air Flow when the car is running is a ground hooked up right next to the battery into the finder wall. It has a connection that can be unplugged so it is possible the back Probe. The wire is Black and Green on my car and I believe that it goes to Pin number 41 in my wiring side of my ECM.

What has been other peoples experiences with Mass Air Flow Sensor going bad? Any suggestions are much appreciated.

Thanks,

Mountain Main

gtsr515 · 03-12-2003, 08:17 PM

First off.....If the TFI was bad, the car would NEVER start.......If you have a EEC tester, THAT would tell you if the MAF was bad, as well as the TPS and all other sensors, do a KOEO test too see what happens.

Obviously NAPA tested wrong........

jimmyjamed · 03-13-2003, 12:43 PM

All TFI problems won't keep the car from starting, in fact, probably the biggest problem from TFI's is killing the engine when hot. After a cool down period, all is well, then dies when heated up again... etc etc...

Mountain Main · 03-15-2003, 09:58 PM

The Air Change Temperture sensor some times comes up as a KOEO test. I beleive the sensor is also called the IAC. The sensor is just fine it is realitively new. Do you think I should test Napa's TFI sensor? I've seen things be bad right out of the box. How would you test it? Is it possible to test it while the car is running. I will pull it off and test it. Any other suggestions.

Technick · 03-16-2003, 12:04 AM

So to start the car the battery charger has to be hooked up? If that is the case then I would guess either the battery is bad or the alt is bad and neither one can supply the voltage necessary to keep the engine running at 5,000 rpm. If that is the case look into the charging system.

Shogun · 03-16-2003, 04:38 AM

Quote:

So to start the car the battery charger has to be hooked up? If that is the case then I would guess either the battery is bad or the alt is bad and neither one can supply the voltage necessary to keep the engine running at 5,000 rpm. If that is the case look into the charging system

Replace your battery.

Mountain Main · 03-16-2003, 01:53 PM

The battery has been replaced and I think I am going to look at the alternator and test that. Does any body have any suggestions on a good after market alternator? More Amps!

I would like to get rid of my air pump at the same time. I have no Cats. I believe that you just plug the vaccum hoses and by a new smaller belt that will bipass the alternator

MDM · 03-16-2003, 02:06 PM

check out pa performance for a good alternator. Go with a 3G 130 amp. It will fit nicely with a small bracket modification that they cover in the included instructions and be sure to upgrade to a 4 gauge primary wire to the solenoid, as the factory wiring is terrible (2 wires terminate into 1 after 6 inches and it is only 10 or 12 gauge). You will be making at least 2x the power than the 2G 65 amp did and the factory wiring is questionably enough to handle that.. good luck./

Mountain Main · 03-16-2003, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mountain Main
The battery has been replaced and I think I am going to look at the alternator and test that. Does any body have any suggestions on a good after market alternator? More Amps!

I would like to get rid of my air pump at the same time. I have no Cats. I believe that you just plug the vaccum hoses and by a new smaller belt that will bipass the alternator

I ment bi pass the air pump.

Coupe50h · 03-17-2003, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mountain Main
The Air Change Temperture sensor some times comes up as a KOEO test. I beleive the sensor is also called the IAC. The sensor is just fine it is realitively new. Do you think I should test Napa's TFI sensor? I've seen things be bad right out of the box. How would you test it? Is it possible to test it while the car is running. I will pull it off and test it. Any other suggestions.

nope. IAC=idle air bypass...on the side of tb.
ACT= different sensor on the lower intake i believe.
good luck with your car

gtsr515 · 03-19-2003, 06:13 PM

ACT is the Air Charge Temperature Sensor

Jay

Mountain Main · 03-21-2003, 10:41 AM

IAC Intake Air Change is old term for ACT. It is a sensor that is threaded into the intake manifold. It reads the Air temperature going in to the intake manifold. IAB is a Idle Air Bypass. It is right next to the throtle body. It lets air in that is not metered by the MAF. The Idle Air Bypass is regulated by the computer.

Sorry for using old terms it confusses people.

richd · 03-21-2003, 12:22 PM

Check your grounds also. There should be a wire running from the (-) terminal to the body right near the battery. There should be 0 volts or 0 ohms between the ends. Or at least very close to 0.

I know a bad ground would make it not turn over, but I don't know about the high rpm shutdown.

Good luck,

Rich D.

03-12-2003, 06:27 PM	#1
Mountain Main Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Minturn, CO 81645 Posts: 109	Fuel injection load problem My car is having problems. I have and 89 5.0 LX Mustang. I can start the car when I pull the car into a garage and hook the battery charger up to it. It will start up and stay running at idle, but as soon as I rev the car up to 5,000 RPM's the computer shuts down the car. I believe the cars not reading load properly I adjusted the fuel pressure regulator and it is good and working in its ranges. The car has a new fuel pump. I put new plugs and new wires on that night. The cap is six months old. I pulled the TFI module and had that tested. Napa said it was no good. So I bought a new TFI Module and the same problem. I have hooked up the scanner and did a key on engine running test. The scanner says all systems are good. I put a new MSD TFI Coil in the car. I thought it was the stator and I tested that, it was good. I tested the throttle position sensor and it is good. It is perfect in the ranges. I did two of the tests for the wiring to the Mass Air flow and so far it is good. I believe the wire that I need to test the Mass Air Flow when the car is running is a ground hooked up right next to the battery into the finder wall. It has a connection that can be unplugged so it is possible the back Probe. The wire is Black and Green on my car and I believe that it goes to Pin number 41 in my wiring side of my ECM. What has been other peoples experiences with Mass Air Flow Sensor going bad? Any suggestions are much appreciated. Thanks, Mountain Main

03-12-2003, 08:17 PM	#2
gtsr515 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Sunny, Hot, Sebring, Florida Posts: 725	. First off.....If the TFI was bad, the car would NEVER start.......If you have a EEC tester, THAT would tell you if the MAF was bad, as well as the TPS and all other sensors, do a KOEO test too see what happens. Obviously NAPA tested wrong........ __________________ Remember...2nd place is 1st place for losers!

03-13-2003, 12:43 PM	#3
jimmyjamed Registered Member Join Date: May 2000 Location: Wilmington NC Posts: 47	All TFI problems won't keep the car from starting, in fact, probably the biggest problem from TFI's is killing the engine when hot. After a cool down period, all is well, then dies when heated up again... etc etc... __________________ '65 Mustang vert, 289 4V, 4 speed '93 LX Ported E7's, Ported Cobra intake, 73mm MAF, 65mm Throttle Body, 1 5/8" shorty's, Underdrive Pullies, 3.55's, 5 speed snatched by a PRO 5.0 shifter, 155,000 and still screamin'!

03-15-2003, 09:58 PM	#4
Mountain Main Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Minturn, CO 81645 Posts: 109	I only have one hard code and that is. The Air Change Temperture sensor some times comes up as a KOEO test. I beleive the sensor is also called the IAC. The sensor is just fine it is realitively new. Do you think I should test Napa's TFI sensor? I've seen things be bad right out of the box. How would you test it? Is it possible to test it while the car is running. I will pull it off and test it. Any other suggestions.

03-16-2003, 12:04 AM	#5
Technick Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Seattle, Wa. Posts: 175	So to start the car the battery charger has to be hooked up? If that is the case then I would guess either the battery is bad or the alt is bad and neither one can supply the voltage necessary to keep the engine running at 5,000 rpm. If that is the case look into the charging system. __________________ No matter how much you spend, or how much you prepare, there is ALWAYS someone else faster or quicker than YOU!!!!!!!!!!

03-16-2003, 01:53 PM	#7
Mountain Main Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Minturn, CO 81645 Posts: 109	Good suggestion The battery has been replaced and I think I am going to look at the alternator and test that. Does any body have any suggestions on a good after market alternator? More Amps! I would like to get rid of my air pump at the same time. I have no Cats. I believe that you just plug the vaccum hoses and by a new smaller belt that will bipass the alternator

03-16-2003, 02:06 PM	#8
MDM Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Flemington, NJ USA Posts: 166	check out pa performance for a good alternator. Go with a 3G 130 amp. It will fit nicely with a small bracket modification that they cover in the included instructions and be sure to upgrade to a 4 gauge primary wire to the solenoid, as the factory wiring is terrible (2 wires terminate into 1 after 6 inches and it is only 10 or 12 gauge). You will be making at least 2x the power than the 2G 65 amp did and the factory wiring is questionably enough to handle that.. good luck./

03-19-2003, 06:13 PM	#11
gtsr515 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Sunny, Hot, Sebring, Florida Posts: 725	ACT= ACT is the Air Charge Temperature Sensor Jay __________________ Remember...2nd place is 1st place for losers!

03-21-2003, 10:41 AM	#12
Mountain Main Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Minturn, CO 81645 Posts: 109	Old Term IAC Intake Air Change is old term for ACT. It is a sensor that is threaded into the intake manifold. It reads the Air temperature going in to the intake manifold. IAB is a Idle Air Bypass. It is right next to the throtle body. It lets air in that is not metered by the MAF. The Idle Air Bypass is regulated by the computer. Sorry for using old terms it confusses people.

03-21-2003, 12:22 PM	#13
richd Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Edison, NJ, USA Posts: 125	Check your grounds also. There should be a wire running from the (-) terminal to the body right near the battery. There should be 0 volts or 0 ohms between the ends. Or at least very close to 0. I know a bad ground would make it not turn over, but I don't know about the high rpm shutdown. Good luck, Rich D.

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