Steeda G-Trac Stage 1

AutoX281 · 03-29-2001, 04:47 PM

I've been thinking of getting the Steeda G-Trac stage 1 kit. Currently it's a stock daily driver 98 GT conv. that I also run as often as I can in Solo II. From what I've seen it seems to be a good starter kit w/o spending a whole lot of money. Griggs is great, but way too much $$$ for now. I'm still learning to really handle the car, so I want to take it slowly.

What do you guys think of this kit? Does it really include what I need or is there something better for the money?

Eventually I will also put in FMS 3.73 HD gears as well as upgrade the brakes, though I haven't investigated those yet.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

------------------
98 GT Conv: K&N, Pro-5.0

drudis · 04-02-2001, 08:09 AM

I like to see that every question get a reply on this board... but I am not really familiar with the Steeda equipment, sorry.

------------------
Darius Rudis
Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-)
My Mustang Page

97snakedriver · 04-02-2001, 05:14 PM

Whoops. How did I miss this one?

The stage 1 is springs (~1" drop), CC plates, strut tower brace, and adjustable rear sway bar.

The springs are good quality, ride firm, but not harshly. The CC plates are the same ones that are in the FRPP, fit the stock 3 hole location, and have a good range of adjustment. The strut tower brace is chrome-moly. Seems to be good quality, but I never actually had this peice.

Anyway, for a starter budget, its pretty good. Its not the end all of suspensions, but it helps.

Skankin · 04-02-2001, 10:56 PM

I've heard bad things about the rear sway bar (used in addition to the stock sway bar).

It just causes more bind so that the rear skids out (oversteer) a lot sooner. So it actually removes grip, rather than adding it. For an experienced driver, the oversteer can improve lap times, but it's generally not a good thing.

cc plates are a good idea. I'd suggest a stronger 4 bolt design though (in case you wanna upgrade to coil-overs). The free articulation (of the spherical bushing) is nice, and the added caster gives you some more feel (and you don't loose as much camber in the corner).

With a factory k-member, most people will agree that a lower chassis brace is more important than the strut brace.

I wouldn't drop it anymore than 1" with the springs alone. The angle of the lower control arm would just lower the front roll centre too much (far more than the centre of mass). You'd need some heavy springs to keep the front heavy beast from rolling.

If you don't have subframe connectors, I highly recommend them (especially on the vert)... it'll transition A LOT nicer. Just make sure you check the regulations though... the SFC's can bump you up to a more competitive class (which probably wouldn't be as fun).

Steeda's offset front lower control arm bushings will add some caster, and the stiffer material will help maintain alignment (in corners). With the lower chassis brace, the turn-in response will be noticably improved.

Get a good alignment (as much caster as possible), 1/16" toe-in, and about -1 deg camber. The cc plates will allow you to add a little more (negative) at the track... but anymore on the highway, and you'll start wearing the inside of your tires.

Maximum motorsports offers some great value, and Kenny brown has some decent products too.

AutoX281 · 04-03-2001, 01:37 AM

drudis: Thanks anyway...any reply is always appreciated.

I was thinking about my next suspension upgrade would be a stage 2, but I'll look into the lower chassis brace and subframes as well. Right now, I mainly have understeer, so a little umph toward oversteer might be just right...we'll see. I'll try it, but if it's too much, I can always swap it out. If I can learn to handle it w/the quicker oversteer, think what I can do when it actually sticks!!!

It's a daily driver and a convertible, so I'm not going to go to far with it, but this sounds like a good start at least.

Thanks guys!

------------------
98 GT Conv: K&N, Pro-5.0

03-29-2001, 04:47 PM	#1
AutoX281 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 27	Steeda G-Trac Stage 1 I've been thinking of getting the Steeda G-Trac stage 1 kit. Currently it's a stock daily driver 98 GT conv. that I also run as often as I can in Solo II. From what I've seen it seems to be a good starter kit w/o spending a whole lot of money. Griggs is great, but way too much $$$ for now. I'm still learning to really handle the car, so I want to take it slowly. What do you guys think of this kit? Does it really include what I need or is there something better for the money? Eventually I will also put in FMS 3.73 HD gears as well as upgrade the brakes, though I haven't investigated those yet. Any info would be greatly appreciated. ------------------ 98 GT Conv: K&N, Pro-5.0

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04-02-2001, 08:09 AM	#2
drudis Moderator Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Livonia, MI, USA Posts: 1,194	I like to see that every question get a reply on this board... but I am not really familiar with the Steeda equipment, sorry. ------------------ Darius Rudis Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-) My Mustang Page

04-02-2001, 05:14 PM	#3
97snakedriver Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Blacksburg, VA Posts: 1,526	Whoops. How did I miss this one? The stage 1 is springs (~1" drop), CC plates, strut tower brace, and adjustable rear sway bar. The springs are good quality, ride firm, but not harshly. The CC plates are the same ones that are in the FRPP, fit the stock 3 hole location, and have a good range of adjustment. The strut tower brace is chrome-moly. Seems to be good quality, but I never actually had this peice. Anyway, for a starter budget, its pretty good. Its not the end all of suspensions, but it helps.

04-02-2001, 10:56 PM	#4
Skankin Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,349	I've heard bad things about the rear sway bar (used in addition to the stock sway bar). It just causes more bind so that the rear skids out (oversteer) a lot sooner. So it actually removes grip, rather than adding it. For an experienced driver, the oversteer can improve lap times, but it's generally not a good thing. cc plates are a good idea. I'd suggest a stronger 4 bolt design though (in case you wanna upgrade to coil-overs). The free articulation (of the spherical bushing) is nice, and the added caster gives you some more feel (and you don't loose as much camber in the corner). With a factory k-member, most people will agree that a lower chassis brace is more important than the strut brace. I wouldn't drop it anymore than 1" with the springs alone. The angle of the lower control arm would just lower the front roll centre too much (far more than the centre of mass). You'd need some heavy springs to keep the front heavy beast from rolling. If you don't have subframe connectors, I highly recommend them (especially on the vert)... it'll transition A LOT nicer. Just make sure you check the regulations though... the SFC's can bump you up to a more competitive class (which probably wouldn't be as fun). Steeda's offset front lower control arm bushings will add some caster, and the stiffer material will help maintain alignment (in corners). With the lower chassis brace, the turn-in response will be noticably improved. Get a good alignment (as much caster as possible), 1/16" toe-in, and about -1 deg camber. The cc plates will allow you to add a little more (negative) at the track... but anymore on the highway, and you'll start wearing the inside of your tires. Maximum motorsports offers some great value, and Kenny brown has some decent products too.

04-03-2001, 01:37 AM	#5
AutoX281 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 27	drudis: Thanks anyway...any reply is always appreciated. I was thinking about my next suspension upgrade would be a stage 2, but I'll look into the lower chassis brace and subframes as well. Right now, I mainly have understeer, so a little umph toward oversteer might be just right...we'll see. I'll try it, but if it's too much, I can always swap it out. If I can learn to handle it w/the quicker oversteer, think what I can do when it actually sticks!!! It's a daily driver and a convertible, so I'm not going to go to far with it, but this sounds like a good start at least. Thanks guys! ------------------ 98 GT Conv: K&N, Pro-5.0