GW TracLink vs.Panhard

Fox89GT · 09-08-2000, 05:45 PM

Does anyone know the difference between these and pros and cons of each. I'm thinking about adding one of these. Is this a good idea with only street driving in mind? My main goal is to minimize the snap steering in the rear. Are there other options to aaccomplish this? Whats the least painful$$$?

turbolx · 09-11-2000, 07:56 AM

First off, the Trac-Link and a Panhard bar are two very different devices that do different things to the rear suspension. The Trac-Link is effectively a short torque arm that helps control axle windup under acceleration, and the panhard is used to positively locate the axle under the body laterally.

Adding a GOOD panhard should make a significant difference rear end behavior. Since a panhard eliminates the lateral, nonlinear bushing deflection, snap oversteer is greatly reduced. Just make sure that you don't buy a cheap panhard that will break after heavy use. (Ask me how I know... ) Get a good one from either Maximum Motorsports or Griggs, assuming you already have done the usual chassis reinforcement (subframe connectors) and springs/shocks.

------------------
Greg Banish
President, Detroit Speedworks
'93 LX
Incons, Baers, Torque Arm, Stereo
'00 Bad-Ass F150

Fox89GT · 09-11-2000, 11:28 AM

Right now I'm debating my next move. I've installed all my bracing so far (subs, G-brace, strut tower) and will do springs, CC plates, shock/struts, and then the rear end stuff next. I'm leaning towards the Maximun Motorsports street package but then was considering the Steeda 2G and GW packages. Thats when I came across these bars. Also, whats all the debate with the upper rear arms? Some say leave it stock, some same use the HD bushings and others say remove it completely. And what about the lower control arms? Can I leave it stock if I use a panhard bar? What are the benefits of changing those out while still using the panhard?

Sorry for all the questions but I'd like to do this once and be happy with it and so am trying to get all information I can before I drop some bucks here. Whats everyones opinion for a street daily driver looking to keep some ride comfort and keeping up with some Vettes?

turbolx · 09-11-2000, 01:32 PM

The Maximum Motorsports package is good. It's a good idea to stay with one manufacturer's "package" rather than try and slap a bunch of stuff together.

If you plan on using a panhard, you need to leave the soft rubber bushings in at least one end of the upper arms to prevent bind. As far as the lowers, you should be able to replace those with aftermarket pieces, preferably from the same "package".

The current Steeda packages are also pretty good (I sell those), and they are coming out with a wicked-cool rear parallel four link suspension that uses an adjustable panhard bar. That will be some really good stuff.

------------------
Greg Banish
President, Detroit Speedworks
'93 LX
Incons, Baers, Torque Arm, Stereo
'00 Bad-Ass F150

Fox89GT · 09-11-2000, 05:09 PM

Thank for your comments, Greg. Maximum's street package comes with a panhard bar and recommends stock upper and lower control arms. I wonder why this is? You would think that one could get by with just an upgraded LCA without the panhard bar as Steeda does. Steeda, by the way, also recommends installing some heavy duty upper control arms also. Why all these combinations? I'll mostly start with the recommended package from Maximum and build up from there.

[This message has been edited by Fox89GT (edited 09-11-2000).]

turbolx · 09-12-2000, 08:30 AM

The MM package recommends stock control arms because the leave the softer bushings in place to flex a bit to prevent bind with their panhard. Something has to give. The MM package is certainly a good one, and one that leaves plenty of room to grow.

The *current* Steeda packages don't use a panhard, so they can afford to put stiffer bushings in the uppers (or completely replace them). Not my personal favorite way to better handling, but it works to a point, and most people are happy with this.

The *new* Steeda package coming out DOES include a panhard, but it also includes new upper control arms that get mounted in a completely different location, giving FAR superior geometry and no bind. This setup is one of the hot tickets for true open track racers and hardcore enthusiasts.

------------------
Greg Banish
President, Detroit Speedworks
'93 LX
Incons, Baers, Torque Arm, Stereo
'00 Bad-Ass F150

09-08-2000, 05:45 PM	#1
Fox89GT Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Bay Area, CA Posts: 55	GW TracLink vs.Panhard Does anyone know the difference between these and pros and cons of each. I'm thinking about adding one of these. Is this a good idea with only street driving in mind? My main goal is to minimize the snap steering in the rear. Are there other options to aaccomplish this? Whats the least painful$$$?

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09-11-2000, 07:56 AM	#2
turbolx Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Detroit, MI Posts: 252	First off, the Trac-Link and a Panhard bar are two very different devices that do different things to the rear suspension. The Trac-Link is effectively a short torque arm that helps control axle windup under acceleration, and the panhard is used to positively locate the axle under the body laterally. Adding a GOOD panhard should make a significant difference rear end behavior. Since a panhard eliminates the lateral, nonlinear bushing deflection, snap oversteer is greatly reduced. Just make sure that you don't buy a cheap panhard that will break after heavy use. (Ask me how I know... ) Get a good one from either Maximum Motorsports or Griggs, assuming you already have done the usual chassis reinforcement (subframe connectors) and springs/shocks. ------------------ Greg Banish President, Detroit Speedworks '93 LX Incons, Baers, Torque Arm, Stereo '00 Bad-Ass F150

09-11-2000, 11:28 AM	#3
Fox89GT Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Bay Area, CA Posts: 55	Right now I'm debating my next move. I've installed all my bracing so far (subs, G-brace, strut tower) and will do springs, CC plates, shock/struts, and then the rear end stuff next. I'm leaning towards the Maximun Motorsports street package but then was considering the Steeda 2G and GW packages. Thats when I came across these bars. Also, whats all the debate with the upper rear arms? Some say leave it stock, some same use the HD bushings and others say remove it completely. And what about the lower control arms? Can I leave it stock if I use a panhard bar? What are the benefits of changing those out while still using the panhard? Sorry for all the questions but I'd like to do this once and be happy with it and so am trying to get all information I can before I drop some bucks here. Whats everyones opinion for a street daily driver looking to keep some ride comfort and keeping up with some Vettes?

09-11-2000, 01:32 PM	#4
turbolx Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Detroit, MI Posts: 252	The Maximum Motorsports package is good. It's a good idea to stay with one manufacturer's "package" rather than try and slap a bunch of stuff together. If you plan on using a panhard, you need to leave the soft rubber bushings in at least one end of the upper arms to prevent bind. As far as the lowers, you should be able to replace those with aftermarket pieces, preferably from the same "package". The current Steeda packages are also pretty good (I sell those), and they are coming out with a wicked-cool rear parallel four link suspension that uses an adjustable panhard bar. That will be some really good stuff. ------------------ Greg Banish President, Detroit Speedworks '93 LX Incons, Baers, Torque Arm, Stereo '00 Bad-Ass F150

09-11-2000, 05:09 PM	#5
Fox89GT Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Bay Area, CA Posts: 55	Thank for your comments, Greg. Maximum's street package comes with a panhard bar and recommends stock upper and lower control arms. I wonder why this is? You would think that one could get by with just an upgraded LCA without the panhard bar as Steeda does. Steeda, by the way, also recommends installing some heavy duty upper control arms also. Why all these combinations? I'll mostly start with the recommended package from Maximum and build up from there. [This message has been edited by Fox89GT (edited 09-11-2000).]

09-12-2000, 08:30 AM	#6
turbolx Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Detroit, MI Posts: 252	The MM package recommends stock control arms because the leave the softer bushings in place to flex a bit to prevent bind with their panhard. Something has to give. The MM package is certainly a good one, and one that leaves plenty of room to grow. The current Steeda packages don't use a panhard, so they can afford to put stiffer bushings in the uppers (or completely replace them). Not my personal favorite way to better handling, but it works to a point, and most people are happy with this. The new Steeda package coming out DOES include a panhard, but it also includes new upper control arms that get mounted in a completely different location, giving FAR superior geometry and no bind. This setup is one of the hot tickets for true open track racers and hardcore enthusiasts. ------------------ Greg Banish President, Detroit Speedworks '93 LX Incons, Baers, Torque Arm, Stereo '00 Bad-Ass F150