What's next? Want more neutral handling...

Fox89GT · 01-30-2001, 03:55 PM

Okay, I got Steeda sport springs. C/C plates and rear sway bar. I also followed their recommended alignment specs. It handles better now but now there is a lot more what seems to be understeer (front end pushing out?). What should I do next to get the car to handle more neutral? I'm suspecting rear LCA. Or should I add some front LCA offset rack bushings? Any comments?

------------------
Black '89 GT, FMS wires, tune up kit, strut tower brace, KB subframes, front sway bar poly-bushings, Steeda G-brace, C/C plates, rear sway bar and sport springs, KYBs, B&M shifter, flex fan, 3.55 gears, 73mm calipers, SVO Master Cylinder and SS braided lines.

autoX · 01-31-2001, 03:25 PM

As you are well aware, a stock suspension is notorius for understeer (which basically means that your front end loses grip before your rear end does). To help this, you really need to mess with your front end geometries. I think the offset bushings are a start, but to really get your front end to hook up more, you pretty much need to scrap the front K member and control arms and go with something like IPS. The more you do to increase rear-end grip, the worse your understeer is going to feel!
I think I read (in Mustang Performance Handbook 2) that there is a way you can drill new holes to mount your front control arms a little higher on the K member and this is supposed to help the understeer. The procedure sounded pretty ratical, so I don't think I will do it, but you might want to find a copy of that book - it has lots of ideas how you can make your mustang handle better... Sorry I probably did not help! Good luck!

------------------
Red '90 GT - My Daily Driver w/ Kenny Brown braces & Springs, 6 KYBs, Caster/Camber Plates, Factory Five Control arms, Poly Bushings, 3.55 gears, Hurst shifter, Dynomax cat-back, Cervini 2 1/2 cowl, & Polished ROH ZR6 wheels... Griggs torque-arm, panhard bar, and Koni Sports waiting for installation!
My other toys:
Viper Blue '85 GT Convertible - Just restored and almost on the road!
Black '95 VW Jetta VR6 - To be sold as soon as the Convertible is on the road!

Skankin · 02-06-2001, 12:43 PM

The inside front tire doesn't do much, and the outside is always way overloaded. Taking any weight off the front will help. Relocating the battery might be a consideration.

The problem with front lowering springs is that while you lower the centre of gravity 1.5", you lower the front roll centre A LOT more (cause the control arms are angled more).

This can be fixed with a K-member that raises the LCA pivot points. Some of them move the rack back for better geometry, move the LCA's forward for weight distribution, angle the LCA's for less brake dive, move the engine down/back etc... really depends what you want, and how much you'll spend. Some of them require coil-over's though.

Another alternative is the dropped spindle setup from www.ajeracing.com (which also maintains the steering geometry).

Since you've already got cc plates & springs, k-member might be prefered. MM is suppose to be releasing a k-member with stock spring perches. Could do that and add some stiffer LCA bushings to help maintain alignment.

Are you using the steeda adjustable sway bar, along with the stock one? That thing supposedly yields some aweful binding, which often induces over-steer even before the crappy front slides out. You might wanna see what the guys at www.corner-carvers.com have to say... they'll probably tell you to start with it's removal.

The rear roll centre is mainly dictated by the upper control arms, and it's way too high (they also cause binding, and the AWEFUL rear brake jacking). Nothing else will give you as much anti-squat for straight-line hook, but if you wanna handle, ya gotta get rid of them. This requires a lateral location device like a panhard bar, and a torque arm, 3rd link, or parallel uppers. The cheapest route is probably the maximum motorsport setup. This requires much stiffer springs in the rear.

Since you've already started piece-by-piece, MM is probably the best place to go. The steeda 5-link might be the best rear solid axle set-up, but it's pricie. Griggs has great stuff, but it's pricie too... and a little more unique (can't really integrate any of their front stuff into your combo). Ground Pounder has a cheap k-member with decent geometry... not sure if you can use the stock springs though...

Everyone starts with springs, but if you want real results, they'll probably end up getting swapped out. I did the FMS-B springs, KYB's & bushings a couple years ago, but now I want more, and they'll probably all come out (at least it was pretty budget, so I didn't waste too much $$$).

------------------
'89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 155K Km (No winters), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, Mr. Gasket 180 therm (HP balanced), 3 core rad, MarkVIII fan, Variflow controller, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. Re-ringed bottom end, conv. motor mounts, melling oil pump, FMS-C50 waterpump, GT40P heads (blended, polli

01-30-2001, 03:55 PM	#1
Fox89GT Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Bay Area, CA Posts: 55	What's next? Want more neutral handling... Okay, I got Steeda sport springs. C/C plates and rear sway bar. I also followed their recommended alignment specs. It handles better now but now there is a lot more what seems to be understeer (front end pushing out?). What should I do next to get the car to handle more neutral? I'm suspecting rear LCA. Or should I add some front LCA offset rack bushings? Any comments? ------------------ Black '89 GT, FMS wires, tune up kit, strut tower brace, KB subframes, front sway bar poly-bushings, Steeda G-brace, C/C plates, rear sway bar and sport springs, KYBs, B&M shifter, flex fan, 3.55 gears, 73mm calipers, SVO Master Cylinder and SS braided lines.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Does anyone know how to test a neutral switch on the WC T-5?	MustangGT1990	Windsor Power	3	12-13-2002 10:55 AM
faulty neutral safety switch???	ultraflo	Windsor Power	14	06-14-2002 02:19 AM
Best Handling Early Mustang?	bigcarguy	Classic Mustangs	6	12-29-2001 08:33 PM
Handling	Black02GT	Modular Madness	5	11-28-2001 02:46 AM
handling	yusuf	Classic Mustangs	8	06-12-2001 03:51 PM

01-31-2001, 03:25 PM	#2
autoX Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 113	As you are well aware, a stock suspension is notorius for understeer (which basically means that your front end loses grip before your rear end does). To help this, you really need to mess with your front end geometries. I think the offset bushings are a start, but to really get your front end to hook up more, you pretty much need to scrap the front K member and control arms and go with something like IPS. The more you do to increase rear-end grip, the worse your understeer is going to feel! I think I read (in Mustang Performance Handbook 2) that there is a way you can drill new holes to mount your front control arms a little higher on the K member and this is supposed to help the understeer. The procedure sounded pretty ratical, so I don't think I will do it, but you might want to find a copy of that book - it has lots of ideas how you can make your mustang handle better... Sorry I probably did not help! Good luck! ------------------ Red '90 GT - My Daily Driver w/ Kenny Brown braces & Springs, 6 KYBs, Caster/Camber Plates, Factory Five Control arms, Poly Bushings, 3.55 gears, Hurst shifter, Dynomax cat-back, Cervini 2 1/2 cowl, & Polished ROH ZR6 wheels... Griggs torque-arm, panhard bar, and Koni Sports waiting for installation! My other toys: Viper Blue '85 GT Convertible - Just restored and almost on the road! Black '95 VW Jetta VR6 - To be sold as soon as the Convertible is on the road!

02-06-2001, 12:43 PM	#3
Skankin Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,349	The inside front tire doesn't do much, and the outside is always way overloaded. Taking any weight off the front will help. Relocating the battery might be a consideration. The problem with front lowering springs is that while you lower the centre of gravity 1.5", you lower the front roll centre A LOT more (cause the control arms are angled more). This can be fixed with a K-member that raises the LCA pivot points. Some of them move the rack back for better geometry, move the LCA's forward for weight distribution, angle the LCA's for less brake dive, move the engine down/back etc... really depends what you want, and how much you'll spend. Some of them require coil-over's though. Another alternative is the dropped spindle setup from www.ajeracing.com (which also maintains the steering geometry). Since you've already got cc plates & springs, k-member might be prefered. MM is suppose to be releasing a k-member with stock spring perches. Could do that and add some stiffer LCA bushings to help maintain alignment. Are you using the steeda adjustable sway bar, along with the stock one? That thing supposedly yields some aweful binding, which often induces over-steer even before the crappy front slides out. You might wanna see what the guys at www.corner-carvers.com have to say... they'll probably tell you to start with it's removal. The rear roll centre is mainly dictated by the upper control arms, and it's way too high (they also cause binding, and the AWEFUL rear brake jacking). Nothing else will give you as much anti-squat for straight-line hook, but if you wanna handle, ya gotta get rid of them. This requires a lateral location device like a panhard bar, and a torque arm, 3rd link, or parallel uppers. The cheapest route is probably the maximum motorsport setup. This requires much stiffer springs in the rear. Since you've already started piece-by-piece, MM is probably the best place to go. The steeda 5-link might be the best rear solid axle set-up, but it's pricie. Griggs has great stuff, but it's pricie too... and a little more unique (can't really integrate any of their front stuff into your combo). Ground Pounder has a cheap k-member with decent geometry... not sure if you can use the stock springs though... Everyone starts with springs, but if you want real results, they'll probably end up getting swapped out. I did the FMS-B springs, KYB's & bushings a couple years ago, but now I want more, and they'll probably all come out (at least it was pretty budget, so I didn't waste too much $$$). ------------------ '89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 155K Km (No winters), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, Mr. Gasket 180 therm (HP balanced), 3 core rad, MarkVIII fan, Variflow controller, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. Re-ringed bottom end, conv. motor mounts, melling oil pump, FMS-C50 waterpump, GT40P heads (blended, polli