Where to Start?

[86GT]

Well this is exactly what I wanted to get into.. Corners, so I was wondering, with my 86 what should my first mods be to be on the right track. I know what to do (sorta) to make the car go down the 1320, but for corners, its a new field for me.. Right now all I've got is exhaust, and basic stuff, nothing major has been done yet. What suspension setup should I get? What type of differential? Roll cage? Anything to get me started would be appreciated...

[Old School]

First off I'd go with springs, shocks/struts and all the braces you can find. Subframes and a cage will probably be the most noticable of the braces. A good set of tires are required of course.

[Danbo]

Welcome to carving corners. I'm sure you will like it as much,if not more than 1320 foot races. Where to start depends on where you stand, and, how much you wanna spend. Unlike the 1320's, here the faster you go the faster you need to stop. So brakes are always good to have. You need the kind that lasts for 30 mins under heavy use.
But, before any money on your car, go spend some money on something much more important.... YOU !. The first dollars I would spend would be on a Drivers School
like The Car Guys , Trackmasters or Driving Dynamics. The weekend schools are about $350 if you use your own car. Which is great ,because then you'll know what needs the most work on your car..brakes..springs...? After that you will know how much of a commitment(AKA:$$$ ) you wanna make to the "go fast and turn" hobby.

------------------
'96 Cobra, Steeda G-Trac
Stage III Suspension, K&N
Filter,77mmPro-M,FMS Ceramic
Coated Headers,Bassini-X Pipe,
FMS Al D/S, FMS 3.73's, Cobra R's ,
Firestone SZ-50 275-40x17's,
Powerslot Rotors, Preformance Friction Z rated pads,
(Track PF90 Compound pads),Steeda Tri-Ax,
Schroth Restraints,Kuhmo Victoracers(for the track)
Steeda Functional Wing.
1:32min @ Summit Point

[drudis]

Start with... A PLAN!

I would highly recomment the Mustang Performance Handbook-II. It has to do with suspesnions.

I would start with (in this order): subframes, springs, shocks, K-brace, strut
tower brace.
Pause, check your wallet, then continue with 8" wide wheels, and 245+ size tires (16" 4-lug are cheaper, than 17" 5-lug...).
Try this. By then you will be amazed at how much you got for so little investment.


------------------
Darius Rudis
Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-)
My Mustang Page

[86GT]

Thanks for the replies so far, they're really helping. I've got the Mustang Handbook, and I'm reading up. Unfortunately there is no driving school close to where I'm at, but I'm open to the idea.
My plan so far (advice is definitely appreciated on this):
Car - 86 GT T-top.
Kenny Brown Extreme Matrix System,
Koni Adjustable Struts and Shocks,
Eibach Lowering/Handling Springs,
6 Point Cage.

That's for the start of it all, after that I want to get into the driveline a little and boost the power. I've already got a set of Pony wheels, with 205-55 on the front and 245-50 on the rear.

Will 4-lug hold up for long in the twisties, or should I convert to 5-lug? Do I need to use 31-spline axles?

Sorry for the length, but I'm really interested, and even though money is really tight (I'm a college student), I'm still able to squeeze.. Thanks for the help so far.

[Danbo]

I understand your problem. I had the same problem for many years.
Trackmasters is at St. Jovit in July and
Mosport in August. I know Canada is a big place but these are in the east. Maybe you can be a corner worker in exchange for track time "credits". I know that the Car Guys does this. Anyhow, it's worth a try.
( trackmasters.com )

good luck
dan

[drudis]

You are purchasing the higher-end (cost) of the products listed. That is good, if you've got the money.
If you want a cage, then that is a large investment of time and/or money. (I know, I am currently putting one in myself).
As for the 4-lug, dont worry. I ran for a few years with 245-45-16's Yokohama A008RS-II
(R1-type) tires and no problemo!


------------------
Darius Rudis
Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-)
My Mustang Page

[86GT]

So a cage may not be necessary right away? Should I wait on that since the car is my daily driver? The springs, shocks and struts are going in over the summer.

[drudis]

Reread my post with the "PLAN"...

With a daily driver, I would NEVER install a cage (thats just me). It would be difficult getting in/out, and the rear passengers would be dangerous with all those pipes in an accident..

I roadraced my car for a few years (not many events), and finally "wanted" to put in a cage. Yeah, it'll stiffen the frame a bit, and hold my shoulder harnesses correctly (not y-belt to hatch area), and I wanted a REAL camera mount. Those are the reasons for my cage.

Make sure you get good tires (whole new thread, here we go...) :-) But the performance stuff you are adding will only be limited by the 205's in front. Save money for some 245's that'll fit easily.

------------------
Darius Rudis
Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-)
My Mustang Page

[86GT]

Okay.. that's the input I needed on the cage.. So if I'm getting into a serious race only deal, then a cage is necessary?

As for my tires, once I'm ready with the suspension, I'm gonna put 245-50's up front and 255-50's in the back.

[LOWKEY]

86gt,
No one answered your ? about axles so I will. No you don't need 31 spline axles unless your dumping the clutch at 5k on slicks(with a few hp). As far as the tires go a 245/50zr16 is pushing it on a 7inch rim 255/50's would not be wise(for handling sake). As far as the suspension goes, get all the braces, koni shocks, H&R road race springs, poly front end bushings, and then if not before work on those brakes. Everyone is right about formulating a plan, do some research and decide what manufacturer you want to go with and stick with them. I would also suggest getting the good stuff the first time, ie no bbk or jamex.

------------------
89'notch
http://lowkey.stangnet.com

[Danbo]

86GT,
I think you're on the right track. You need to do your homework before you spend a dime. Knowledge is power. For your first car
you may want to pick a specfic Aftermaket supplier and go with their product line. Steeda,Saleen,Kenny Brown,Griggs,DECH(in Canada)..etc. They all make good stuff. Most
of them sell their kits in Stages. So, you can start with Stage I and build as you get money and time. Call them up. Ask them why their way is better. Get their Data and info.
find out if anyone in your area installs and is familar with their stuff. When you call with a question, do they answer it? Do they call you back? What kinda Tech support will you get from them ? Saleen lost a sale because their tech support guy was a dick on the phone. And I had money to spend! So, I called Steeda and gave them my money instead.
I reccomend a single tuner because they have already done the R&D and have proven results(hopefully). You don't have to figure out what combo of shocks mate best to which spring rates and which sway bars. You can do it your self using trial and error...but that costs money. The Jan 2000 issue of 5.0 Mustang had a good suspension buyers guide. It gives you the name and phone number of most of the tuners out there. The only one missing of relavence was DECH in Canada.
I hope that helps get the car you want for the least amount of $$.
dan

------------------
'96 Cobra, Steeda G-Trac
Stage III Suspension, K&N
Filter,77mmPro-M,FMS Ceramic
Coated Headers,Bassini-X Pipe,
FMS Al D/S, FMS 3.73's, Cobra R's ,
Firestone SZ-50 275-40x17's,
Powerslot Rotors, Preformance Friction Z rated pads,
(Track PF90 Compound pads),Steeda Tri-Ax,
Schroth Restraints,Kuhmo Victoracers(for the track)
Steeda Functional Wing.
1:32min @ Summit Point

[86GT]

Thanks for the info so far everyone, keep it flowing. I've made a couple of calls to some of my friends who are into the open road racing, and they all suggest either Kenny Brown, or Dech. I like the Kenny Brown systems and I know a couple of places that offer the systems. But I think I'm gonna try and call Dech and talk to them about their line.

As for my rear-end, I'm getting another one, and I'm gonna re-build the differential, and convert it to disc brackes. When I get my first stage of suspension components I think I'll put the rear end in.

[zeiger]

If you want to build your car to handle, and you don't want to spend your money twice, I would suggest saving up your money and Buying either the fullk Griggs setup or the IPS setup. Any other system is just a "band -aid" on the already poorly designed geometry of the stock suspension. We just took my friend's 92' LX in to Griggs Racing at Sears Point Raceway to have the rear suspension done, along with the fuul length subframe connectors. He already has the front tubular K-member installed, with Koni coilover shocks, something he was able to install with simple hand tools. i have seen the Griggs cars in action at Thunder Hill Raceway, and let me tell you they were impressive! Virtually no brake dive! There was a mustang running stock style suspension and the rear lifted horrendously. As for tech support, John and Bruce Griiggs are very helpful and were willing to take time out from what they were working on to answer all of mine and my friends questions. Hope this helps.


-Rob

[86GT]

I was talking with a friend of mine, he's a mechanic, and he suggested that I get a whole kit, except for the springs. He suggested Eibach springs, saying that their quality is unmatched. I would like your thoughts on this too...

[drudis]

I like the suggestion (2 posts back) about going Griggs ($$$).
I think they are after a more streetable (not that its rough or anything) but budget seems to indicate that a set of springs/shocks/braces will deliver _plenty_ of smiles.
To make use of the Griggs or IPS (I consider them in the Exotic category) you need to look into race-compound tires. Street tires with race suspensions just dont cut it on the track, and on the street its overkill.
As for the Eibach springs. I had a set. I got their "Street" 450-580lbs. THis was my first spring and was very satisfied. Nice firmer 10% ride, and handling was great. Then I built the t-arm/panhard and needed stiffer springs and went (still cheapie) BBK 650# linears. Now, this spring I am going to Tokikos with 400# (800# @wheel) coilovers.

------------------
Darius Rudis
Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-)
My Mustang Page

[JANESLX50]

All of this info couldn't have come at a better time. We're getting ready to do some serious suspension work. Our 90 LX is a daily driver , but some of the curves I take are starting to get a bit too squirrely for me. On a good hard take off from a light the backend swings a little to the right (just enough to make it fun), but I'm getting a little peeved over losing good traction. In fact, the car appears to lean just a bit to the left (drivers side) when we look at it straight on from the front. We've got Goodyear American Eagle 225/60/15s on it now that are about 2 1/2 yrs old. We will go with some better tires once these wear out. Any more suggestions out there?
Cheers.

[86GT]

Well the Griggs people are very informative, and I wish I could afford most of their stuff. I think I'm gonna go with the Kenny Brown kits though, they're easy for me to get around here. Thanks for all the input, and hey keep it flowin...

[Mike W]

If your looking for an inexpensive way to upgrade, try finding a wrecked SVO. You can pick them up for 500 to 1500 dollars. You can get Koni adjables shocks, heavy duty sway bar, control arms, rear traction lok, 3.45 or 3.73, 5 bolt axles and spindles, 4 large disc brakes, and 16 inch alloy wheels that way. Then you can part-out the turbo motor and T-5 tranny, interior, and any body parts that are usable, to recoup part of your money.
Just another option,
Mustang Mike http://members.spree.com/SIP/svo86/M...4and86SVOs.htm


[This message has been edited by Mike W (edited 02-07-2000).]

[86GT]

What rearend did the SVO's come with? Cause I'm thinking more along the lines of a Turbo coupe rear...