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#1 |
The Dude
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,262
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![]() Is getting a stiffer swaybar (such as the Maximum Motorsports adjustable one) worth it?
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: Caracas, Venezuela
Posts: 81
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![]() Same question here, running both stocks bars now, and I recall once that somebody suggested changing front for one a little thinner.
I understand that this was a way to correct stock understeer tendency. Other question I had is that having both wouldn't create some binding on the suspension. After all the trial-error process I'm really an antibind guy. lito ------------------ 92GT, SOLO RACER, COBRA BRAKES, R1 TIRES, GT40, GT40X HEADS 58CC, 24LBS, 70MM/65MM, E303, MAC 1"5/8 LT HEADERS, 3" XPIPE AND EXHAUST W/CUT OFFS, 4.10, H&R 950-1050 SPRINGS, BILSTEIN SHOCKS, MM PANHARD AND TA, MANY ROAD RACE MODS, CORVETTE, CAMARO, RX7 AND SUPRA SOLO EVENT EATER www.killersracing.com www.clubcopa.com <IMG SRC="http://www.killersracing.com/lito/mustan |
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#3 |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Livonia, MI, USA
Posts: 1,194
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![]() Sway bars can be used for "additional" tuning.
Basically, you gotta get the spring rate right. Sway bars (stock ones) only add about 50# of spring rate to the car. Depending on how bas the car understeers, will determine if you need to adjust other things other than the sway bar. It helps, but is a fine-tuning mechanism (IMOHO). As for bind, they are not really "binding". Bind is when two different arcs of travel cause them to work against each other, because they are not equal. (Kinda like two different height people in a 3-legged race. its aukward cause of the bind. Now if they are the same height people, the problem gos away, sort'a). IMOHO, I wouldnt play with sway bars. They are expensive, and difficult to tune, and dont give you much. ------------------ Darius Rudis Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-) My Mustang Page [This message has been edited by drudis (edited 05-09-2001).] |
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#4 |
The Dude
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,262
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![]() ok, sounds good to me! That's money spent elswhere (torque arm)
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#5 |
Mustang Addict
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 1,294
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![]() Generally, a stiffer sway bar will reduce grip at that end of the car, so you can use them to reduce an understeer tendency.
With my tubular K-member, I actually had to get a stiffer front bar to reduce oversteer (don't have torque arm in the back yet). ------------------ 2000GT Atlantic Blue: Cobra R Wheels-17x9 255/40/17, 17x10.5 315/35/17, tubular K-member & control arms, Tokico 5-ways, coil overs, sway bars, strut/shock tower bars, 70mm FMS throttle body, Saleen nose. 79 Pace Car: Maximum Motorsports suspension - H&R Race springs, Bilsteins, rear control arms, chassis bracing, Draglites, 302 w/ Edelbrock Performer intake, cam and 600cfm carb, BBK equal-lengths & H-pipe, 2.5" Flowmaster 2chmbr exhaust, Al Driveshaft, 8.8 trak-loc, TCI C4 w/ 2000 stall, B&M |
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#6 |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Livonia, MI, USA
Posts: 1,194
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![]() Blue00gt:
You can also use a panhard to help with over/understeer. I used to play with mine. Set different settings for street or track. On the street, I set it for more oversteer (a LOT) cause I dont get anywhere near the speeds I see on the track, so that I get "some" oversteer on the street. On the track, I would reduce it, cause of the higher speeds, I would get off-throttle oversteer, and on-throttle oversteer... Too much. So I dialed the car more neutral. ------------------ Darius Rudis Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-) My Mustang Page |
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