Tubular K-members
 

Which tubular K-member should I get? And why?

The car is a '88 Mustang hatch that is used for everything - daily driving, drag stripping, loading up with lumber and supplies from Home Depot, carving corners on the hilly and curvy roads where I live, etc...

Are there any manufacturers K-members that I should stay away from?

There are several companies to choose from.
I am installing the Griggs one myself: http://members.mustangworks.com/drudis/
This is for roadrace duties, and moves the geometry around, so you gotta be ready for that.

If you go with D&D or other ones, those are more bolt-on type.

READ THE MUSTANGWORKS TECH ARTICLES. Rudy wrote a HUGE K-install article with photos and everything!!!

------------------
Darius Rudis
Roadracer: Home built t-arm/panhard suspension powered by an S-trimmed motor :-)
My Mustang Page

The Anthony Jones Y2K-member looks VERY well constructed. They have adjustable LCA's as well (cheaper than griggs).

I'd stay away from the budget stuff.

Make sure you know what it does to the geometry, and what you want. Griggs moves the LCA's forward & up, moves the engine back & down, and also gives you more anti-dive. A lot of good engineering went into the geometry!

I believe that Kenny Brown just recently released a new one, I might be thinking of something else. How hard is the install with the engin still in?

Ya, KB had a write up in last months MM&FF (march I think). It's not as light, but looks to be the strongest. It moves the lca's 1" forward (griggs & groundpounder go 2", and can cause inner-fender interference with the pre-91 stangs). It gives you more anti-dive like griggs, and two height options for the lca attachments. Also moves engine back & down. Definitely an interesting piece.

I think most people install them with the engine still in.