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06-08-2001, 01:36 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 56
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handling
I have a '65 with decent power (360 to the tire), but I feel that the chassis isn't up to it. I put on subframe connectors, adjustable shocks, the "Shelby" handling mod, but it still feels overpowered and unbalanced. And when I'm going 100mph, I feel like I don't dare corner at all.
I rented an Eclipse the other day while on a business trip, and it can corner with more confidence than my car, although maybe a bit slower. Is it the nature of independent rear suspension, or is there something I can do that will make my inspire confidence? The most expensive handling mod is the Griggs Racing stuff, but I have no idea if $=value in this case. Any suggestions? |
06-08-2001, 03:58 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 380
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I love old mustangs, but they are still 35 year old technology now. Kind of hard to compete with the new stuff. Here is my list of upgrades. Some of these are in my 72. Stiffen up the chasis. Chasis flex with defeat suspension. Subframe connectors are good. How about adding a stronger shock tower brace and maybe a monte carlo bar? Go with a preformance suspension package like a handeling package from Mustangs Plus or something like it. I have 620 front coils and it helped a bunch. Along with these parts rebuild the A arms and suspension components and use poly bushings. go with poly engine and trany mounts too. Front and rear sway bars and a slight lowering of the vehicle. This should improve handeling quite a bit.
I have the preformance suspension, 1inch front sway bar, rebuilt front suspension, poly bushings on almost all suspension components. Rear sway bar on the way. These made a vast difference in my car. But I just got a GMC 1500 with the trailering package and my new truck corners nearly as well as the car (it is truely good) New car proformance just kicks butt. |
06-08-2001, 05:13 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Stockton, Ca
Posts: 599
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360 hp is a little too much without reinforcing the chassis. Mustangs plus has a chassis strenghting kit that sells for $360 but it's kind of difficult to add on if you've got the car put together. No need for sub frame connectors with this. How about some tubular A-arms, monte carlo bar, Koni shocks, front and rear sway bar, 5-leaf rear springs, lowering the car, wider tires, mounting battery in trunk, under rider traction bars, ummm I'm sure there are a few other ones that I can't remember at this time. These are just a ideas.
------------------ 67'fastback-Edelbrock carb,intake,cam,valve springs.Rhode lifters, CompCam rocker arms, windage tray,cerama coated headers,dual flows with H-pipe, modded c-4,tci stall converter,perma cool electric fan,aluminum water pump,griffen aluminum radiator,accel 8.8 cable,wide cap distriburator,magnetic pick up,v-matic hurst shifter,edelbrock performer nitrous, carter electric fuel pump,ignitor coil,solid motor mounts,magna racing suspension,poly urathane bushings,under rider traction bars, comp. eng. s |
06-10-2001, 10:31 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Gordonville MO USA
Posts: 448
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I got a deal on a 70 convert with hi miles.
Suspension all sagged out. Ended up with www.canadianmustang.com hi rate 1" lowered springs F&R, complete suspension bushings & A-arm pivots & shocks. Lowered the car 1", looks great. I got their exclusive Midolyne bushings - firmer than oem, don't go soft over time, but don't transmit road shock like poly. Even w/o other chassis stiffening mods (stock 302 yet) car handles totally better, rides firm but w/o harsh road shock at every line in the road. A MAJOR but often overlooked part of the handling dept, after stiffening the chassis, is the steering. Those years had awful steering. My power is all rebuilt, yet still sloppy. I relate to your "disconnected" feeling at speed.Total Control Products has both manual and power rack&pinion kits that are said to make VAST diff, but bring 2 heckbooks esp for the power one. site maybe www.totalcontrolproducts.com or similar? |
06-11-2001, 08:31 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Atlanta,GA,USA
Posts: 278
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These guys covered it, adding the rear sway bar makes a big difference, and a larger front bar along with some chassis braces will be a good start.
------------------ 67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint 351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Carter 750 CFM, Comp. Cam 477/510 219/233@.050, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars. My 351W Fastback |
06-12-2001, 09:32 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Conn.
Posts: 220
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Just curious - What engine combo are you running to make 360 hp at the rear wheels?. always interested to find out the mods done to make this kind of power.
------------------ 1965 K code coupe - numbers matching - restoration ongoing. 1987 LX notch, 5 spd, stock heads (minor porting) and intake, 65mmTB, 3.55's, ram air, pulleys, shorty's, 2.5" exhaust with cats 13.89@100.25 |
06-12-2001, 11:12 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 56
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I have a 351W stroked to 427, a crate engine from Coast High Performance. It has a Weiand Stealth intake to fit under the stock hood; with a Victor Jr. intake, it might make more.
I have pretty much all the stuff you guys recommended for the suspension, and it does handle much better than when it was stock, but handling and traction are just not where they should be. Oh well, I guess that's the price for driving a cool classic. |
06-12-2001, 03:25 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Atlanta,GA,USA
Posts: 278
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A lot may be just road feel, An Eclipse going 100 feels different than a mustang going 100mph. I think the quicker steering ratio and sloped hood probably makes the Eclipse feel like it handles so much better when it may just be a little better.
Also, what do you have for brakes? When I had front drums, i was not too confident going into any cornering situation. |
06-12-2001, 03:51 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,887
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Don't forget rims and tires. Wide rims and wide tires (good ones) are very important to handling. The right kind of tires too. You have to have the rims and tires to take advantage of the suspension mods.
Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph 1/4 mi. |
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