Newbie with 86 GT questions

[Umoplata]

Hello my friends! I was proud to buy my second Stang last Monday.

I had an 89 GT but a tractor trailer took care of her. So, last week I bought my friends' 86 GT HO and I'll be doing stuff to it. I've already put a clutch, plugs, wires and a coil in it.

Now - I've got the new MM&FF - and I'm looking to get some headers and a X Pipe.

I'm looking at BBK headers (ceramic coating) but I don't know what size to get. What kind of headers and X pipe will be the right combo? I remembered this site and I remember you guys giving me a lot of help before, but that's been over a year ago.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Tchau

[Umoplata]

Anybody? Please,hehehe

[Nitrous Al]

Go with the BBK 1 5/8" headers and a 2.5" H-pipe with cats. Get the ceramic coating on the headers. No one will "see" the H-pipe, so save some money.

[Umoplata]

Are'nt the X pipes better HP? I just want a good combo, i will price what you suggested and i will order soon. Any more info?

For heads i am looking at Trick Flow and for intake Trick Flow Street, anybody got Trick Flow? Tell me if it is worth the $$$

Thanks

[1BAD89]

Yeah Trick Flow products are def. worth the money. I have them on almost all of my vehicles, heads, intake, pistons, etc... If you want the most HP you can get, I would suggest BBK Longtubes(ceramic coated)I think those run about $380, then BBK's shorty Offroad H-pipe if you don't have to worry about emmissions. Look in JEGS or SUMMIT they'll have them. Justin.

[gtsr515]

Being an 86 I would get rid of that 58mm throttle body and at least put a stock 60 from 87 and up on it, that would be cheap to do.

Get 15/8 Shorties with a 2.5 inch X-pipe, x-pipes make power a little lower in the rpm band than H-pipes, since its a street cat i would do that. I just installed that exact combo on a customers car last week, by the way if you dont have any emmissions concerns get a full h-pipe no cats.

86's really like a cold thermostat.

Also 86's as you know are Speed density, the SD computer relies on the ACT sensor as a main tuning sensor so if you could get that tube sucking up some nice cold air and with that thermostat, that should wake it up a bit. Might want to consider replacing the ACT, thet get pretty crudded up, and it would be much more accurate. Good luck

Adjust your TPS to .99 volts, etc.....

[Umoplata]

I don't think there is anyone around here that works on performance vehicles. I don't know anything about ACT sensors or whatever, and i am worried i will get some local "Joe" trying to work on my car and won't do it right.

I almost ordered the TFS Street upper and lower intake last night, but i stayed strong. I need to see how my finances are before i make a huge decision. No emmisions tests here in Tennessee.

[gtsr515]

Hey, that's no problem, I'll take a step back and explain what the ACT does.

It is a "sensor" not a "sender", just so you get the terminology right, which you did. It is located in Speed Density cars (86-88), either in the lower intake or plumbed into the intake tube after the filter. I have seen some air boxes with a provision for them, but they are rare. The one's mounted in the intake tract are the best way to go, since the AIR CHARGE TEMPERATURE is more accurate, because it is uneffected by manifold heat. Unfortunately most are in the intake, so don't be dissapointed if it is.

If you want to change it out, all it is, is simply unscrew it and screw the new one in, dress it with a little sealer first.

Your old one is most certainly all gunked up, I would really do this if I were you, I had without a doubt the fastest 86 GT in the central Illinois region back in 1987-88, I was kickin MAF butt for awhile until the aftermarket caught up.

Like I say, the ACT is 1 of the 3 primary sensors used to tune your car, since it doesn't have Mass Air. The other two is the MAP sensor and Oxygen Sensors, you have 2 of these.

Now don't get me wrong, today, there are few limitations to Speed Density now that custom chips are available.

FORGET THE INTAKE SET UP FOR NOW, Go with a nice exhaust system NO CATS, since you don't have emmissions. To help you "decide" what to buy, DO THIS

First think about what you want the car to be ultimately, do you wan't to run 10's naturally aspirated or mid 12's with a bottle, then take a big piece of paper and write down EVERYTHING it will take to achieve that goal, then begin buying your parts. Don't put the cart before the horse when you start buying, in other words don't buy an intake, if you still have stock exhaust, or don't buy a throttle body untill you have put a K&N filter in it, see what I mean? Good luck and let me know if you need any more "86" help.

[Tim89LXvert]

Congrats on your purchase.

Being an 86, you have some performance hinderances compared to 87-up 5.0s.

The heads and intake are more restrictive than the 87-up versions. If you are going to get a better intake, you will definately need to step up to better heads. You should be able to find some used GT40 irons for not too much money.

An additional area of concern that some pre-87 owners should be able to help you are on is piston clearance. The 87-up pistons were notched for valve clearance. I am not sure how big you can go on the heads before that will become an issue.

gtsr is giving some very good advise too. Work from a plan.

First make sure you basic systems like cooling, braking, drivetrain are all sound and in need of repair. If you need brakes, or overheat, or have worn items, mods will only make you break sooner.

A few basics first that you can use to build on later would be:
1) A good tune-up with plugs, wires, cap rotor, fuel filter along with gtstr's recommendations (some of this you already have done)
2) Remove air silencer and install K&N panel
3) Advance the timing to 12°-14° BTDC (as long as you are willing to buy premium)
4) Underdrive pullies, good bang for the buck
5) Free flowing exhaust (unequal shorties, off road h-pipe, and 2 1/2" cat back is the cheapest way)
6) Gears, 3.73s are pretty popular. I love mine, and they really wake up the car
7) Aftermarket shifter. This is something you will not regret
8) Adjustable fuel pressure regulator, good for tuning
9) 180° thermostat
10) larger TB as gtsr recommended

Most of these outside the exhaust and the gears are pretty darn cheap, but they make a good improvement.

After that work from your plan, and your budget. Plan how and where to spend your money, and don't be afraid of some used parts. They can save you alot of money. I have used quite a few myself.

Good luck, and enjoy!!

[gtsr515]

Tims89LXvert's 1-10 items are spot on, although I disagree that you have limitations with the SD set-up, there are custom chips that will pretty much make it run like a MAF car.

Also remember you have flat top pistons on an 86, with truck heads (E6TE's) v.s. the 87-up (E7TE's), that right there would be a good swap and super cheap, I've got many E7's out of the bone yard for $150. That would give you 2 tenth's right there.

Also if you go ANY valvetrain work, like rockers, please replace those valve springs with a kit from crane or FMS.

Go with 1.6 rockers, so if you get aftermarket heads, you don't have any thing to worry about. 1.7's would increase lift a full .30. with the stock cam being .444, you would be at .474 which is fine, but I still recommend the 1.6's, I had 1.6 on the intake side and 1.7's on the exhaust, but I really couldn't tell you if it helped.

3.73 gears are the one's for you, DO NOT GET 3.55's, now i know I'm gonna get slammmed for saying that but, 3.55's kill MPH and are the worst grag racing ratio for 5.0 there is. I'll explain if i get slammed, LOL.

[Umoplata]

I just got back from the shop, i had a new clutch cable put in and my car is shifting horribly. Yeah i had him point out some sensors for me, he said my car runs off the MAP sensor since it does'nt have Mass Air. He showed me the ACT sensor also, i wonder how much it would cost to replace it, because i know it is older than the hills.

I will use your advice guy's. Thanks alot.

[gtsr515]

Great!, glad your willing to listen, I've been racing these cars for 15 years now and have made ALL the mistakes, so i should be able to help you spend your money wisely. The ACT should cost very little to replace, Use a motorcraft unit from local dealer.

Is your car shifting badly AFTER you had it replaced or before, take it back if it was after, did you get a adjustable one or OEM?

Hey! just for grins, is your intake tube after the filter "smooth" or does it have the "ribs" like a MAF car? Tell ya why later.

Get that 180 stat in there and bump your timing, that will wake her up a bit, remember to take the SPOUT connector out when timing, then replace when finished, if you leave it out it will not advance. It's that little "plug" in the harness going to the distributor in case you didn't know. Oh! remove that 20lb vibration damper connected to your rear-end with two bolts, $shitcan that thing, it's heavy. Like 18lbs.

Goog luck Grasshopper!!!

[Umoplata]

I got the clutch cable from Advancewd Auto Parts, it is just regular i guess. Told them i wanted a clutch cable for an 86 and they gave this one to me, it is made by Motormite i believe.

I will check on an ACT sensor so do i have to go to a Ford dealer for it or just an Auto parts store? I am gonna order K&N cold air induction tonight. Later

[gtsr515]

Gotch, sounds like OEM. As far as the ACT, to get a Motorcraft you will have to go to a dealer, when it comes to sensors and senders i always used Motorcraft, you'll pay more but thats what was in it from the factory.

To get some Korean pseudoequivalent, any auto parts store will have them.

Also, clean off the gunk of the back side of the throttle body blade, later years has a teflon coating to prevent the build up, but not 86's. I love 86's!

Good luck grasshopper!

[Unit 5302]

Technically the E7TE's are the truck heads. The E6's casting number was E6SE.

I certainly wouldn't want to put 1.7's on E7TE heads and then slap them onto an 86 engine. It's already pretty damn close to smashing valves with just E7's and stock rockers.

Personally, I'd ditch the 86 engine altogether in favor of an 87-88 SD engine. Better setup altogether. Better intake, T/B, pistons, and heads.

[ramrace86gt]

Welcome to the "Wonderful World of Four Eyes"!! I love my 86!! Much more unique than all of the 87-93 Fox's! Good luck with it!

[86GT]

Do a compression test, and if the rings are good, then by all means keep that motor! Take off those boat anchor E6 heads, then flycut the pistons, then you're off to do whatever performance mods you want. That's what I did, but I went with E7s, before I dropped my current motor in.

After that, 351 W heads, or any aftermarket heads, depending on your budget that is, would help. The intake lowers are the same, so all you'll need is an 87+ HO upper intake with the 87+ throttle body. Noticeable by the casting of HO under the intake cover plate. Exhaust, and a set of 3.73's or 4.10's wouldn't hurt either. That'll get you hooked on performance, and with the flycut flat top forged pistons then you'll have slightly (albeit not too much) higher compression.