Advise on inner tie rods

poopstang · 08-21-2001, 12:41 PM

I need some advise on changing my inner tie rods. Special tools, etc...? I tried to get the car aligned but they told they wouldn't do it because there was to much play in the front end.
any info would be great!

Mr 5 0 · 08-21-2001, 01:39 PM

Check the tie-rod play yourself or have it re-checked at a reputable shop you can trust.

Don't mistake wheel bearing play for tie rod play; use a pry bar to check.

Many alignment shops routinely say there's 'too much play in the front end' so they can sell you expensive front-end work. This is especially common where you have an older car with high milage and no recent front-end work has been performed.

I've been in this situation in the past and I always asked the mechanic/service writer to show me the 'play' and either it obviously wasn't there (despite the mechanics' claims to the contrary) or they wouldn't let me on the shop floor for 'insurance reasons' and acted offended that I questioned them. Too bad. When that occurs, I say: See ya!
So should you.

poopstang · 08-21-2001, 09:34 PM

yeah i checked the play before i went down there and they had alot of play( my car was all over the road, especially when i hit bumps). i was wondering if i needed a special tool to change them?

macx · 08-22-2001, 12:58 AM

Nah! Just loosen the clamps that hold the
rubber boots over the inner tie rod ends, pull the boot toward the outer end to expose the attachment point. Turn the wheel as if steering to the left to expose enough of the teeth, which have a flat, so you can get a
good sized crescent wrench on the rack. You need to do this to hold the rack from turning when you remove the old tie rods and tighten the new ones so it and the pinion don't get damaged. Use another large wrench on the part of the inner tie rod end that looks like a big nut. It will be quite tight because there's a small pin that you basically have to shear off by turning. (Check - just in case it's a small allen screw.) When you loosen the jamb nut where the inner screws into the outer, JUST break it loose enuf to screw out the old inner. Then measure the length on the old inner to this nut on the old one and match it on the new one to get a starting point for a rough alignment so it's driveable to the alignment shop.

macx · 08-22-2001, 01:02 AM

PS - to make SURE it's the inner tie rod ends, turn the wheel most of the way first one side then the other and have someone slightly jog the wheel back and forth while you feel for play inside the rubber boot - squeeze it fairly hard and you can feel if there is play between the inner rod end and the rack. Just watch your fingers! Also check your ball joints - they can also give you lots of play and wander in your steering.
Clue on the tie rod ends - the steering wheel will often shimmy back & forth rapidly just enough to feel it while you're at road speed if they're loose. I've even just tightened my old loose ones and they've lasted another 20+k miles - done it on 3 diff cars.

08-21-2001, 12:41 PM	#1
poopstang Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: palmbayFL Posts: 184	Advise on inner tie rods I need some advise on changing my inner tie rods. Special tools, etc...? I tried to get the car aligned but they told they wouldn't do it because there was to much play in the front end. any info would be great!

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08-21-2001, 01:39 PM	#2
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	Check the tie-rod play yourself or have it re-checked at a reputable shop you can trust. Don't mistake wheel bearing play for tie rod play; use a pry bar to check. Many alignment shops routinely say there's 'too much play in the front end' so they can sell you expensive front-end work. This is especially common where you have an older car with high milage and no recent front-end work has been performed. I've been in this situation in the past and I always asked the mechanic/service writer to show me the 'play' and either it obviously wasn't there (despite the mechanics' claims to the contrary) or they wouldn't let me on the shop floor for 'insurance reasons' and acted offended that I questioned them. Too bad. When that occurs, I say: See ya! So should you.

08-21-2001, 09:34 PM	#3
poopstang Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: palmbayFL Posts: 184	yeah i checked the play before i went down there and they had alot of play( my car was all over the road, especially when i hit bumps). i was wondering if i needed a special tool to change them?

08-22-2001, 12:58 AM	#4
macx Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Gordonville MO USA Posts: 448	Nah! Just loosen the clamps that hold the rubber boots over the inner tie rod ends, pull the boot toward the outer end to expose the attachment point. Turn the wheel as if steering to the left to expose enough of the teeth, which have a flat, so you can get a good sized crescent wrench on the rack. You need to do this to hold the rack from turning when you remove the old tie rods and tighten the new ones so it and the pinion don't get damaged. Use another large wrench on the part of the inner tie rod end that looks like a big nut. It will be quite tight because there's a small pin that you basically have to shear off by turning. (Check - just in case it's a small allen screw.) When you loosen the jamb nut where the inner screws into the outer, JUST break it loose enuf to screw out the old inner. Then measure the length on the old inner to this nut on the old one and match it on the new one to get a starting point for a rough alignment so it's driveable to the alignment shop.

08-22-2001, 01:02 AM	#5
macx Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Gordonville MO USA Posts: 448	PS - to make SURE it's the inner tie rod ends, turn the wheel most of the way first one side then the other and have someone slightly jog the wheel back and forth while you feel for play inside the rubber boot - squeeze it fairly hard and you can feel if there is play between the inner rod end and the rack. Just watch your fingers! Also check your ball joints - they can also give you lots of play and wander in your steering. Clue on the tie rod ends - the steering wheel will often shimmy back & forth rapidly just enough to feel it while you're at road speed if they're loose. I've even just tightened my old loose ones and they've lasted another 20+k miles - done it on 3 diff cars.