5 speed or AOD

BigCountryGT · 08-30-2003, 08:14 PM

I have a 90' GT with about 59,000 miles. It is basically stock accept for 4:10's subframe connectors, upper and lower control arms, cold air kit, bbk headers,h- pipe, 2-chamber flows. it has run a best of 9.867 with 2.252 60 foot in the 8th.
The AOD short shifts 2nd. Should I invest in a stall converter and maybe a valve body or should I just yank it and put in a 5-speed.

Fox Body · 08-30-2003, 11:28 PM

Not exactly sure what you plan to do to the car in the future, but at this point (going on just the info you provided), I'd say just go with the stall converter and shift kit. That's what I'd do (unless, for example, a friend was willing to sell me a manual tranny for a marvelously low price and help me convert it over). Only my opinion...

BigCountryGT · 08-31-2003, 12:45 AM

I do have a shift kit forgot to put that. Right now my plans are to finish with the bolt-ons (electric fan, pulleys, etc...) I think I will also add a 100 hp shot of nitrous. Most of the guys I know who have about the same setup as me only with a 5-speed usually run low 9s to high 8ths. Where can I find more information on this "lyntech valve body" ? Cost?

tireburner163 · 08-31-2003, 05:04 PM

Yank out that retarded shift kit you have and put in a Trans-Go shift kit. That should cure you short-shift problem, you've probably got some kind of shitty B&M kit in there.

With a stall converter and they valve body you should be able to run with the 5-speeds.

That 100hp shot of N2O should put you well into the 8's

p.s. All MW members BigCountry is my older brother...........give him hell

-Josh, aka the tireburner

Fox Body · 08-31-2003, 08:03 PM

BigCountryGT, YOU SUCK!!!!!!!!!!!

(... beat down Josh.... he made me do it

) j/k

Welcome to the MW.

Josh, all this time you've been here and you're just now getting him to start posting...shame shame. You need to increase those persuasion influences.

tireburner163 · 08-31-2003, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tireburner163
Yank out that retarded shift kit you have and put in a Trans-Go shift kit. That should cure you short-shift problem, you've probably got some kind of shitty B&M kit in there.

Guess I had a brain cramp there. With a new valve body you won't need a shift kit. All a shift kit does is modifiy the stock valve body to increase line pressure, there is no need for a shift-kit with a aftermarket valve body.

-Josh, aka the tireburner

fiveohpatrol · 09-01-2003, 12:23 PM

Quote:

With a new valve body you won't need a shift kit. All a shift kit does is modifiy the stock valve body to increase line pressure, there is no need for a shift-kit with a aftermarket valve body.

I bet some really smart guy told you that, huh ?

to cure your shortshifting problem, all you have to do is the 1-d-1 shift. I did it for 2 years with no problems at all.

You've also REALLY got to focus on that 60ft time to get your ET down.

tireburner163 · 09-01-2003, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by fiveohpatrol
You've also REALLY got to focus on that 60ft time to get your ET down.

It's not spinning. That's just as fast the the AOD will let it get out of the hole. He may be able to shave a little off of it by stalling it up a little more, but not a lot. I ran a 9.8 in it doing the AOD shuffle, with a 130lb passenger. I think I could pull off a 9.6 with no passenger and a little more practice driving it.

-Josh, aka the tireburner

silver_pilate · 09-02-2003, 11:22 AM

Yup. Definately need a higher stalling converter (2800-3000), and I would HIGHLY recommend the valve body. Lentech makes an absolutely awesome unit that gives you full control over shifts. Changes the shift pattern to 1-2-3/electronic OD. Or, leave it in drive and let it shift itself. They'll set the shift firmness to where you want it.

--nathan

RBatson · 09-03-2003, 08:56 AM

I ran a B&M shift kit and stall for a few years with no problem what so ever, it also made the tires break loose in 2nd for the first time. I was happy with the changes. The 1-D-1 shifting is a risky habit to get, it may work fine for a couple years or it may break your transmission the 3rd time to try it, you take your chances. I had a transgo installed once, car ran like pure crap afterwards... it may have been installed wrong but the B&M went back in.

The lentech valve body is $350 and is absolutely wonderful, it works great with the $700 PI Stallion convertor and lentech is very knowledgable and helpful. Then you are going to want a solid input shaft, $195, and a tranny cooler, $50. Then possibly a wide ratio kit(maybe) ,$550. Then you are in the ballpark of a t-5 switch, $1000. I'd say a t-5 switch would be the way I'd go for a daily driver until I saw a 100hp nos shot was to be added... you can run nos with a manual fine until you miss a gear. Then you run a chance at blowing the motor. I hope this helps in making your decision and yes, I've been exactly were you are.. (get the t5

)

Rick

fiveohpatrol · 09-03-2003, 01:42 PM

Quote:

you can run nos with a manual fine until you miss a gear

Thats what a RPM window switch is for.

RBatson · 09-03-2003, 01:53 PM

So you're saying there is absolutely no chance of damage?

fiveohpatrol · 09-03-2003, 03:38 PM

Anytime you run a power adder, be it nitrous (or nos as you call it), a turbo, or supercharger, you are increasing the risk of damage.
A safe tune is only as good as the one doing the tuning.

The risk you take with a manual tranny and nitrous comes when you miss a shift. If you hit the rev limiter, the factory computer will shutoff fuel flow. NOT good when coupled with nitrous.
An RPM window switch, when setup correctly, will shut the supply of nitrous off BEFORE the engine reaches the rev limiter, and in turn keeping the nitrous from being added when there is no fuel with it.
In other words, with a window switch that is working correctly, you can miss shifts all day long on nitrous, and it will do the same thing as when you miss shifts running naturally aspirated.

Back to the orignal topic, I did the AOD-T5 swap a few years back, and am still loving it. After selling my AOD and related parts, and after finding a cheap used T5, I finished the swap being only $150-200 in the hole. Not bad for a half second reduction in ET.

If I were you, I would do the swap and never look back. Just don't let Josh drive the car when you're done

BigCountryGT · 09-03-2003, 04:20 PM

Dude you just don't know. The first time he drove it all he had to do was back up about six feet. He bent (and I mean bent) a set of long tube headers and a h-pipe, the transmission linkage. Did I mention he bent the header up into the steering linkage so that you couldn't even turn the wheel.

tireburner163 · 09-03-2003, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BigCountryGT
Dude you just don't know. The first time he drove it all he had to do was back up about six feet. He bent (and I mean bent) a set of long tube headers and a h-pipe, the transmission linkage. Did I mention he bent the header up into the steering linkage so that you couldn't even turn the wheel.

long tubes and 2" lowering springs is a bad mixture.......you would have done it yourself before long anyway. I just saved you the trouble

-Josh, aka the tireburner

RBatson · 09-04-2003, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by fiveohpatrol
nitrous (or nos as you call it)

Its like calling a copying machine a xerox, they invented it so it is often refered to by that name. Its also refered to as laughing gas, the blue bottle, juice, spray, squirt, N2O etc.. feel free to use any of those terms.

I didn't realize the rpm switch was being used on the blue bottle, thanks for the info, I'll be sure to do that if I ever decide to get a nos kit. I'm well aware of the effects a power adder has on an engine, I've had a blower on my car since 97, thanks for the 101 adder class though..

fiveohpatrol · 09-04-2003, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Its like calling a copying machine a xerox, they invented it so it is often refered to by that name. Its also refered to as laughing gas, the blue bottle, juice, spray, squirt, N2O etc.. feel free to use any of those terms.

I know, I was just busting your balls a little. No harsh feelins, I've really enjoyed reading and learning from your posts the past few years. I thought you may have been trying to be a smart ***, and thats what I do best, so I threw one back at you. My apoligies.

-Drew

RBatson · 09-05-2003, 07:10 AM

Damn, that was pretty cool of you to say. No apology needed, I was being a bit of a smart ***

08-30-2003, 08:14 PM	#1
BigCountryGT Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: meridian, ms Posts: 96	5 speed or AOD I have a 90' GT with about 59,000 miles. It is basically stock accept for 4:10's subframe connectors, upper and lower control arms, cold air kit, bbk headers,h- pipe, 2-chamber flows. it has run a best of 9.867 with 2.252 60 foot in the 8th. The AOD short shifts 2nd. Should I invest in a stall converter and maybe a valve body or should I just yank it and put in a 5-speed. __________________ No, I was serious. Your import sucks

08-30-2003, 11:28 PM	#2
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	Not exactly sure what you plan to do to the car in the future, but at this point (going on just the info you provided), I'd say just go with the stall converter and shift kit. That's what I'd do (unless, for example, a friend was willing to sell me a manual tranny for a marvelously low price and help me convert it over). Only my opinion... __________________ 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

08-31-2003, 12:45 AM	#3
BigCountryGT Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: meridian, ms Posts: 96	I do have a shift kit forgot to put that. Right now my plans are to finish with the bolt-ons (electric fan, pulleys, etc...) I think I will also add a 100 hp shot of nitrous. Most of the guys I know who have about the same setup as me only with a 5-speed usually run low 9s to high 8ths. Where can I find more information on this "lyntech valve body" ? Cost? __________________ No, I was serious. Your import sucks

08-31-2003, 05:04 PM	#4
tireburner163 It's a lot like a race car Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Meridian, MS Posts: 4,130	Yank out that retarded shift kit you have and put in a Trans-Go shift kit. That should cure you short-shift problem, you've probably got some kind of shitty B&M kit in there. With a stall converter and they valve body you should be able to run with the 5-speeds. That 100hp shot of N2O should put you well into the 8's p.s. All MW members BigCountry is my older brother...........give him hell -Josh, aka the tireburner __________________ 1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide

08-31-2003, 08:03 PM	#5
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	BigCountryGT, YOU SUCK!!!!!!!!!!! (... beat down Josh.... he made me do it ) j/k Welcome to the MW. Josh, all this time you've been here and you're just now getting him to start posting...shame shame. You need to increase those persuasion influences. __________________ 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

09-02-2003, 11:22 AM	#9
silver_pilate DURKA DURKA!! Join Date: Sep 1997 Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle) Posts: 1,418	Yup. Definately need a higher stalling converter (2800-3000), and I would HIGHLY recommend the valve body. Lentech makes an absolutely awesome unit that gives you full control over shifts. Changes the shift pattern to 1-2-3/electronic OD. Or, leave it in drive and let it shift itself. They'll set the shift firmness to where you want it. --nathan __________________ '91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT

09-03-2003, 08:56 AM	#10
RBatson Registered Member Join Date: May 1997 Posts: 3,028	I ran a B&M shift kit and stall for a few years with no problem what so ever, it also made the tires break loose in 2nd for the first time. I was happy with the changes. The 1-D-1 shifting is a risky habit to get, it may work fine for a couple years or it may break your transmission the 3rd time to try it, you take your chances. I had a transgo installed once, car ran like pure crap afterwards... it may have been installed wrong but the B&M went back in. The lentech valve body is $350 and is absolutely wonderful, it works great with the $700 PI Stallion convertor and lentech is very knowledgable and helpful. Then you are going to want a solid input shaft, $195, and a tranny cooler, $50. Then possibly a wide ratio kit(maybe) ,$550. Then you are in the ballpark of a t-5 switch, $1000. I'd say a t-5 switch would be the way I'd go for a daily driver until I saw a 100hp nos shot was to be added... you can run nos with a manual fine until you miss a gear. Then you run a chance at blowing the motor. I hope this helps in making your decision and yes, I've been exactly were you are.. (get the t5) Rick

09-03-2003, 01:53 PM	#12
RBatson Registered Member Join Date: May 1997 Posts: 3,028	So you're saying there is absolutely no chance of damage?

09-03-2003, 03:38 PM	#13
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	Anytime you run a power adder, be it nitrous (or nos as you call it), a turbo, or supercharger, you are increasing the risk of damage. A safe tune is only as good as the one doing the tuning. The risk you take with a manual tranny and nitrous comes when you miss a shift. If you hit the rev limiter, the factory computer will shutoff fuel flow. NOT good when coupled with nitrous. An RPM window switch, when setup correctly, will shut the supply of nitrous off BEFORE the engine reaches the rev limiter, and in turn keeping the nitrous from being added when there is no fuel with it. In other words, with a window switch that is working correctly, you can miss shifts all day long on nitrous, and it will do the same thing as when you miss shifts running naturally aspirated. Back to the orignal topic, I did the AOD-T5 swap a few years back, and am still loving it. After selling my AOD and related parts, and after finding a cheap used T5, I finished the swap being only $150-200 in the hole. Not bad for a half second reduction in ET. If I were you, I would do the swap and never look back. Just don't let Josh drive the car when you're done __________________ NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft

09-03-2003, 04:20 PM	#14
BigCountryGT Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: meridian, ms Posts: 96	Dude you just don't know. The first time he drove it all he had to do was back up about six feet. He bent (and I mean bent) a set of long tube headers and a h-pipe, the transmission linkage. Did I mention he bent the header up into the steering linkage so that you couldn't even turn the wheel.

09-05-2003, 07:10 AM	#18
RBatson Registered Member Join Date: May 1997 Posts: 3,028	Damn, that was pretty cool of you to say. No apology needed, I was being a bit of a smart ***

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