Edel. non-smog to AFR smog legal heads? What do you guys think?
 

Hey guys, I'm currently running the Edelbrock Performer RPM aluminum cylinder heads w/ 2.02/1.60 valves, stud mounted. The rest of my mods are in my sig. These CA. smog laws are driving me nuts though! :mad: There is pretty much no way to my knowledge, that I can get my rebuilt motor w/ the big valves, B303 cam, no cats and all of my smog stuff removed...to ever pass smog. The "test only" centers that I must now go to are definitely more strict with their testing. Are there any "tricks" I can do to possibly help me pass at least the tailpipe sniffer? I know retarding the timing some can help. I've heard a hotter spark plug might burn up some unburnt fuel in there too...but I already have a Crane HI-6 so I'm, sure the spark is sufficient. Are there any "magical" additives that I can add?? :confused:

Basically I'm thinking of selling my non-smog legal Edel. heads (only 20,000 miles on them if anyone is interested) & putting a little more money with that to get some emissions legal 165cc AFR heads w/ 1.90/1.60 valves. The AFRs seem to outflow my Edelbrock heads on the flow charts even though the AFRs have smaller valves. Actually I guess it's just a smaller intake valve the AFRs have really. Do you guys think I'll see a drop in power with the AFRs, or is their the tiniest chance that I'll see an improvement in my ET?! :) I know AFRs kick butt, but I will also be putting back on my smog pump and all that disgusting plumbing + some pricey aftermarket catalytic converters. I'd imagine I'd lose some power there?? I just hope the AFRs can somehow make up for the loss of power from the smog equipment. What do you guys think? Will my car be slower once it's back to smog legal, as opposed to the way I'm running it now...with no cats, no smog equipment & box stock Edel. Perf. RPM heads (part#6025) w/ 2.02/1.60 valves?

Also, do I want to stick with stud mounted rockers probably? Can someone explain to me what the difference in CC size actually does for performance? AFR lists the heads I'm looking at in 3 different applications.
165cc Street Heads, Stud, 58cc 1402*
165cc Street Heads, Pedestal, 60cc 1472*
165cc Street Heads, Stud, 61cc 1400*
Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

More CC's mean lower compression.

First off, unless you know someone that will pass you, you are going to have to have the pump and cats on. You have to pass a visual. beyond that, get carb eo decals by the manufactures you have parts from, and cross your fingers. Also, set the base timing right where it's supposed to be. If it's anywhere else, you automatically fail. lower your fuel pressure a few pounds before the test, and on your way to having it tested, drive to Moorpark and back a few times, one gear lower than you would normally be driving in. The goal is to gradually get the driveline very hot. Not overheating, but close. The hotter it is, the better the cats will work.

Take care,
~Chris

do you have the smog numbers for your car? how far off from passing are you?

I'm wondering if your car will pass the smog check with your current heads. Just get the E.O. decal for the regular performer heads. Are the AFR 185's emissions legal? If they are they would seem to be a better choice since you already know your 2.02/1.90 valves are clearing the pistons and you have the stud mount rockers from the edelbrock heads.

The combustion chamber volumes will determine you compression ratio. I think the edelbrocks you're using are 60 cc so use that as a reference (if they haven't been milled). Going with the smaller chambered 58 cc will give you some more power but at the expense of having to run higher octane fuel. What's the lowest octane you can run now without detonation?

smog
 

PKRWUD-
Thanks for the tips Chris. Can I just order the E.O. stickers from Edelbrock then? I take it, I should put them somewhere in the engine compartment so the smog mechanics can see them?

Dark Knight-
No I don't have the #s from a failed test. I haven't attempted the test yet.

mikew88gt-
The AFR 185cc heads are not smog legal, as far as I know. Otherwise I would stick with the 185cc ones...being that they have the bigger valves similar to my Edelbrock's. I don't have any clearance issues with the pistons, as I have aftermarket pistons that were notched according to my cam and rocker arm specs when the motor was built. I've never ran any other fuel other than 76 or Chevron 91 octane or higher, although I've ran a mild mixture of race fuel w/ the nitrous a couple of times. 91 octane is all there is around here really...other than buying some high octane from a race shop or the drag strip. So I really don't know how low of octane I'd have to go before it would detonate. I'd rather not find out, actually. :p Seems like pinging & detonating...is just not good for your motor. Therefore I try to refrain from that ever occuring. :p

smog woes
 

So I've also been throwing around the idea of buying a used, bone stock 5.0 motor & full stock exhaust out of a '89-'93 junk or wrecked Mustang. I could always dedicate a weekend to pulling the high performance motor out and put the stock one back in. This would not be fun to do every 2 years though...:mad: So do you think with doing a little tuning and tweaking that I could get my current set up (in my sig) to pass a CA. "test only" smog test? Even though I have the B-303 & 1.72 rockers? Given, I would be putting back on a stock exhaust system, or possibly some better flowing aftermarket catyltic converters along with my current 2-chamber Flowmasters + the smog pump and all of that beautiful plumbing. Do you think it's possible with doing some of the tips that PKRWUD gave me in his post a few above this one??

yes especially if you can get some sniffer numbers first


it might be as long as changing motors but not as sad.

Whenever you need a CARB EO decal, you should contact the company and tell them you bought a specific part (that has an EO number), but that it didn't come with a decal, and could they please send you one.

:)

Take care,
~Chris

smog woes
 

Thanks Chris, I'll give it a shot...and keep you all posted on my dilemma. Thanks people.

just for the record I run REGULAR gas... so that's what... 87 Octane on my combo with about 16degrees of base timing and i dont have any pinging detonation problems...

-as

Yeah, for the record, simi, the best octane for you to use is the lowest you can possibly get away with, without causing detonation. Using a fuel with an octane level higher than you need is actually counter-productive, and will slow you down. It's good to buy from a quality station (I'm pretty tight with Unocal), but try a tank of 89 next time, and see what happens. If it doesn't ping, try 87 the next time. If it still doesn't ping, think of all the money you're gonna save!

:)

Take care,
~Chris