tempatures rising

Hotelbldr · 01-26-2000, 01:32 AM

I have a 66 289 with 1 3/4" single exhaust that i recently changed the intake manifold, cam and 2v to an edlbrock performer 4v kit and did a head job. Since then the temp guage quickly rises to the high side, but mostly when driving at high speeds, I took out the t-stat and installed a 3/4" flow restrictor but that only delayed the process. Whats going on?

Rev · 01-26-2000, 01:54 AM

With the work you've done, I think you need headers and maybe a 2" or 2 1/2 " exhaust with free flowing mufflers like Flowmaster or Dynomax. I had to install a 4 row radiator, Flowkooler water pump, Shelby front valance, and an auxillary electric fan before I got my '66 coupe down to about 180-200 deg F. Now it's always less than 200 F.

Rev

------------------
'66 Coupe, 306, windage
tray, TRW flat tops, 351W
heads,pocket ported, 268
CC hydraulic cam, R tip
R's, Edelbrock Performer,
600 CFM Holley vac. secs.,
Mallory Unilite, coil, fuel
pump, Tri-Y headers, 2 1/2 "
custom pipes, 3 chamber
Flows, stock C-4, 3.25
Currie built 8" rear
and whatever else I
forgot. 14.17 e.t., 97 mph
1/4 mi.

red · 01-26-2000, 12:16 PM

I think everyone would agree that the cooling system on the old mustangs is insufficient as soon as you modify the motor. I put a new radiator, electric fan to help the mechanical fan, hi flow thermostat, headders and a trans cooler; the car still gets hot at stoplights. I'm going to try an aluminum radiator and aluminum oil pan. Kind expensive but most people say a 3 or 4 row aluminum radiator works for them. Probably worth the investment and might keep you from putting money into the other stuff like I did. Look at Griffin or Fluidyne if you want the best.

-JON

[This message has been edited by Dan McClain (edited 01-26-2000).]

WVKICKSTAND · 01-27-2000, 01:51 PM

I HAD AN 85 MUSTANG COUPE WITH AN ALMOST STOCK 302 OUT OF A 72 TORINO. IT WOULD NEVER GET HOT AROUND TOWN BUT AT 65-70 MPH DOWN THE HIGHWAY IT OVER HEAT QUICKLY!THE CAR HAD 3.45 GEARS AND A C4 WITH NO THERMOSTAT! WHEN THE ENGINE WAS COOL YOU COULD START IT TAKE OFF THE RADIATOR CAP AND SEE THE FLUID FLOWING VERY WELL.I ADDED AN ELECTRIC FAN TO HELP THE STOCK 72 STEEL FAN AND DID NOT HELP AT ALL.SO I FINALY SWAPED IN A RADIATOR OUT OF ANOTHER MUSTANG (WICH WAS A 2 ROW THE SAME AS THE ORIGINAL)AND IT NEVER OVER HEATED AGAIN! I HAD THE OLD ON CHECKED BY A RADIATOR SHOP AND THE MAN SAID ONLY THE TOP ROWS WERE FLOWING (THE ONES I COULD SEE)THE REST WERE ALL CLOGGED! SO IF NOTHING HAS EVER BEEN DONE TO YOUR RADIATOR HAVE IT CHECKED !!! OH YEA AND GET RID OF THAT LITTLE EXHAUST !!!

Hotelbldr · 01-28-2000, 12:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Hotelbldr:
I have a 66 289 with 1 3/4" single exhaust that i recently changed the intake manifold, cam and 2v to an edlbrock performer 4v kit and did a head job. Since then the temp guage quickly rises to the high side, but mostly when driving at high speeds, I took out the t-stat and installed a 3/4" flow restrictor but that only delayed the process. Whats going on?

Guys your reply's are very helpful and underscore my suspicions as to the cause. Since Ive had this car for only 6 months getting to hot hasn't been such a bad problem thus far as I havent put on the new AC yet but that will be added by april as it gets to damn hot here to be in any car with out AC after that date. Thanks for the suggestions.

Dark Knight · 01-31-2000, 01:46 AM

I'm not SURE, but I think the intakes made for late model engines have a coolant crossover at the back of the intake... but the early ones dont..might be re-routing the coolant flow the wrong way.. I know my torker doesnt have the crossover, but the E.G.R. performer does... just an idea ;-)

------------------
84 convt,'95 302, performer
3.55's, underdrives shorties
and a '68 stang that WAS nasty ;-)
MY ride
MY ride2

01-26-2000, 01:32 AM	#1
Hotelbldr Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: St. Cloud Fl, USA Posts: 28	tempatures rising I have a 66 289 with 1 3/4" single exhaust that i recently changed the intake manifold, cam and 2v to an edlbrock performer 4v kit and did a head job. Since then the temp guage quickly rises to the high side, but mostly when driving at high speeds, I took out the t-stat and installed a 3/4" flow restrictor but that only delayed the process. Whats going on?

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01-26-2000, 01:54 AM	#2
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	With the work you've done, I think you need headers and maybe a 2" or 2 1/2 " exhaust with free flowing mufflers like Flowmaster or Dynomax. I had to install a 4 row radiator, Flowkooler water pump, Shelby front valance, and an auxillary electric fan before I got my '66 coupe down to about 180-200 deg F. Now it's always less than 200 F. Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, windage tray, TRW flat tops, 351W heads,pocket ported, 268 CC hydraulic cam, R tip R's, Edelbrock Performer, 600 CFM Holley vac. secs., Mallory Unilite, coil, fuel pump, Tri-Y headers, 2 1/2 " custom pipes, 3 chamber Flows, stock C-4, 3.25 Currie built 8" rear and whatever else I forgot. 14.17 e.t., 97 mph 1/4 mi.

01-26-2000, 12:16 PM	#3
red Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Millburn, NJ Posts: 310	I think everyone would agree that the cooling system on the old mustangs is insufficient as soon as you modify the motor. I put a new radiator, electric fan to help the mechanical fan, hi flow thermostat, headders and a trans cooler; the car still gets hot at stoplights. I'm going to try an aluminum radiator and aluminum oil pan. Kind expensive but most people say a 3 or 4 row aluminum radiator works for them. Probably worth the investment and might keep you from putting money into the other stuff like I did. Look at Griffin or Fluidyne if you want the best. -JON [This message has been edited by Dan McClain (edited 01-26-2000).]

01-27-2000, 01:51 PM	#4
WVKICKSTAND Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: WV Posts: 15	I HAD AN 85 MUSTANG COUPE WITH AN ALMOST STOCK 302 OUT OF A 72 TORINO. IT WOULD NEVER GET HOT AROUND TOWN BUT AT 65-70 MPH DOWN THE HIGHWAY IT OVER HEAT QUICKLY!THE CAR HAD 3.45 GEARS AND A C4 WITH NO THERMOSTAT! WHEN THE ENGINE WAS COOL YOU COULD START IT TAKE OFF THE RADIATOR CAP AND SEE THE FLUID FLOWING VERY WELL.I ADDED AN ELECTRIC FAN TO HELP THE STOCK 72 STEEL FAN AND DID NOT HELP AT ALL.SO I FINALY SWAPED IN A RADIATOR OUT OF ANOTHER MUSTANG (WICH WAS A 2 ROW THE SAME AS THE ORIGINAL)AND IT NEVER OVER HEATED AGAIN! I HAD THE OLD ON CHECKED BY A RADIATOR SHOP AND THE MAN SAID ONLY THE TOP ROWS WERE FLOWING (THE ONES I COULD SEE)THE REST WERE ALL CLOGGED! SO IF NOTHING HAS EVER BEEN DONE TO YOUR RADIATOR HAVE IT CHECKED !!! OH YEA AND GET RID OF THAT LITTLE EXHAUST !!!

01-31-2000, 01:46 AM	#6
Dark Knight Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Az Posts: 854	I'm not SURE, but I think the intakes made for late model engines have a coolant crossover at the back of the intake... but the early ones dont..might be re-routing the coolant flow the wrong way.. I know my torker doesnt have the crossover, but the E.G.R. performer does... just an idea ;-) ------------------ 84 convt,'95 302, performer 3.55's, underdrives shorties and a '68 stang that WAS nasty ;-) MY ride MY ride2