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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Phoenix, AZ USA
Posts: 8
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![]() So I was pulling out of my house this morning and I noticed that when I slowed down and pushed the clutch all the way in, my RPMs dropped to about 400... didn't think much of it... until I got to the first stop sign, pushed the clutch in and the car died on me. It had just been started so the engine was still completely cold. (I am in AZ though... so cold is relative) This car is about a month old with 2200 miles on it. Once the engine warmed up, my engine RPM did not go lower than about 800-900 when I would push in the clutch and stop. I seem to remember reading something similar on this before. Engine is totally stock except for K&N and air silencer removal. Anyone know what the problem might be?
Thanks, Colin |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Posts: 1,526
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![]() Sounds weird, but I talked to some one with a similar problem. Putting the stock filter back in, solved it.
I have no idea why. Its just a filter. But it worked for him. Its probably worth a try. |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Danbury, CT, USA
Posts: 273
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![]() I've had a similar problem with the rpm drop. It usually happens to me early in the morning, when I just start up and go immediately (no warm up). The dealer checked out the car and said everything was fine. Now I just let it run for 15 seconds and blip the gas and then go. The rpm drop has gone away and I do have a K&N filter.
------------------ ************************ 1999 GT - Laser Red K&N, Steeda pulleys, & Steeda strut tower brace (Upcoming mods: subframes (bought), Bassani X, & FMS 3.73s |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Torrington, CT, USA
Posts: 145
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![]() I've had this problem as well, when I start it first thing in the morning it is hard to rev, and when the clutch goes in the rpms go down. It has also shuttered on me like it was about to die. I tried to rev, but it didn't want to. I just kept driving without trying to accelerate, and it went away eventually... Now I rev it a little more on start up and I don't really have any problems. I figure if it starts to die on me I'll take it in and have the dealer check it out. Although, I'm sure they wont be able to do much...
------------------ 2000 GT Conv. 5speed Triple Black Current Mods: K&N, Mobile 1, MagnaPack Cat-Back, Steeda Tri-Ax ET: 14.32@100.0 Upcoming Mods: BBK Longtubes, BBK H-pipe w/cats, and much much more |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Clear Lake, Ia
Posts: 186
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![]() Did you guy's disconnect your batteries for about 5 min. after you installed the K&N filters?
------------------ '99 Cobra Electric Green/Medium Parchment Assembled 04/10/99 1464 of 4040 K&N Replacement Filter, Nitto DR's, Steeda Tr-ax Shifter, March Pully's, 3.73 gears, Superchip FIX Pre 255RWHP 264RWTQ Post 274RWHP 275RWTQ After Mods 307RWHP 304RWTQ FRPP Shorty Headers, Bassani High Flow Cats to X-pipe, Dynomax Ultra Flow Cat Back Steeda Variable Rate Springs, Tokico Illumina 5 position strut,Koni 2 way adjustable shocks ¼ mile 13.167 @ 106.06 with a 2.081 60' |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Torrington, CT, USA
Posts: 145
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![]() NO why, I suppose it would reset the computer so that it could reaquaint itself with the new intake flow... Should we be doing this with every mod???
------------------ 2000 GT Conv. 5speed Triple Black Current Mods: K&N, Mobile 1, MagnaPack Cat-Back, Steeda Tri-Ax ET: 14.32@100.0 Upcoming Mods: BBK Longtubes, BBK H-pipe w/cats, and much much more |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Phoenix, AZ USA
Posts: 8
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![]() That sounds like a good idea about disconnecting the battery. I didn't even think about that in this case... but it is a valid point. If you buy the theory that the K&N is providing a little more air... then maybe the computer needs to adjust with a little more fuel. I will try that when I get home.
Thanks, Colin |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Manhattan, KS 66502
Posts: 599
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![]() I am sure it's nothing, but if the problem still persists, don't hesitate to take it to the dealer. They probably won't find anything but if it's a problem that continues past the warranty, you'll have a case for a free fix. It's always good to play it safe and protect yourself. At the very least all you'll lose is a little time at the dealership.
Stefan ------------------ 66 Standard coupe 200 inline 6 - Pertronix ignition, Flamethrower Coil, K&N, Clifford Perf. 6 into 2 headers, Holley carb, three row radiator, Firestone Firehawk 215/60R14's 96 GT Convertible Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, B&M Ripper, Borla Side exhaust, K&N, removed air silencer, Tokico struts/ shocks Next up: 3:73's, high flow H-Pipe www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?258 |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Phoenix, AZ USA
Posts: 8
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![]() Well thank you to Bad Dad... it was just a matter of disconnecting the battery and letting the computer relearn its program. I wasn't expecting the gauges to pin on me when I first started it up... but other than that, it worked out great. Anyone else having this problem I would definitely recommend disconnecting/reconnecting the battery.
Thanks, Colin |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Warner Robins, GA, USA
Posts: 210
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![]() Hey BadDad! How do you like your Superchip? Is it worth the money?
------------------ '97 Cobra, K&N, 3.73s, Rio Red |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: San Marcos, CA
Posts: 19
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![]() Reseting the ECU worked for me too but it also helps to take the screen out that is after the filter and before the mass air sensor. It stopped my RPM drop even more because I used to get a big one with K&N and pulleys.
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