Car Audio 101 (part 2)

Fox Body · 07-29-2001, 03:01 PM

I know this is long, but all I'm asking is that the ones who have the knowledge, please just take the time WHEN YOU HAVE TIME and look at the diagram and answer the questions. I don't expect you to just jump on in and answer it all in 15 minutes from the time I post it, just when you have time (hopefully in the following day or 2), I'd appreciate you answering these questions. THanks a bunch

Here is a diagram of my gameplan for setting up my car audio, but I have a few questions.

(Alright, gonna try to explain this as easily/clearly as possible.)

See the diagram. See the colorful wires coming out from the left side of head unit? My car has a wiring harness that goes to the four speakers in the car, so if I just want to hook up the radio without the amp, all I have to do is attach the 4 wires plus the black wire (I assume it's a common negative terminal for all the speakrs) coming from the head unit, to the car harness, which also has 4 colorful wires and a separate black wire. SIMPLE ENOUGH, YES.

BUT, I wish to hook up the amp b/c the radio seems to hardly push enough. Okay, this is where it gets complicated. You see, in this big audio circuit, the amp must somehow go b/t the radio and the speakers so that whatever comes from the radio is amplified and then put out to the speakes. You follow me so far, right? Good.

1) Looking directly above head unit, see the dark yellow and dark red wires labeled ?2 and ?3. Those are 2 RCA red and white outputs from the back of my head unit. IF there where 4, it would be less confusing b/c I would assume you hook them to the 4 RCA inputs labeled "1CH, 2CH, 3CH, 4CH" in the amp. But there are only 2 so how does that work.

.

2) And if those are the outputs, then what do I do with the 4 speaker wires?

3) Why are there only 4 speaker wires? Should there be 8, a negative and positive for each of the 4 speakers??? Even the car harness going to the speakers in car only has 5 wires (4 speaker wires plus black gnd--do all speakes share same negative terminal?)

4) Look at wire labeled ?1. (The quote is what is on a label attached to that wire.) Is that supposed to be hooked to the RMT (remote) on the amp or is the RMT on amp supposed to be hooked to ignition switch power?

5) Why does the amp need a constant power source? (Labeled 12V on amp)

6) So, all in all, the basic question is how do I make this audio circuit? How do I connect the head unit ----> to amp -----> to speakers? Or is it possible with this head unit/amplifier combo?

Thanks.

-----------------------------------------
351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang notchback
Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl, C4 w/ shift kit
Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft
2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters
Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II
Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s
14 x 4” K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup someday)

"Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

[This message has been edited by Fox Body (edited 07-29-2001).]

KidNotch4793 · 07-30-2001, 04:51 PM

I think I know where you are confused. I'll do my best to explain all this. I have a simular set up in my car, but a previous owner set it all up. So here goes...

When you hook up a head unit to an amp your not using the amp in the HU therefore your not going to use the speaker output from the HU. The RCA connections on the back of the HU are "pre-outs", meaning pre-amplified. The 2 RCA connections on the back of the HU should be labled "Front" and "Rear" So your gong to want to run 2 RCA cables from that connection to your amp then run speaker wire from the amp to the speakers. The rear speakers are the easy ones. I am not clear on how the front speakers are connected since there is one in the dash and one in the door. I am not sure where the previous owner tapped into the front speakers with the speaker wires from the amp in my car. I have heard they are wired in parallel, but I am not sure of that, Power would be able to help you there. I hope this has helped. If you need a diagram I think can throw one together pretty quick.

Fox Body · 07-31-2001, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by KidNotch4793:
...The 2 RCA connections on the back of the HU should be labled "Front" and "Rear" So your gong to want to run 2 RCA cables from that connection to your amp then run speaker wire from the amp to the speakers...

Hmmmm... So those two RCA outputs go to channel 1 and 2 on the amp? Those two alone carry required audio to go to front 2 speakers and back 2 speakers, for example, red one for front two speakers and white one for back two speakers?

So I don't hook up the colorful wires? Do I bypass the audio harness that came with the car (and not use the one coming from the head unit) and just go directly to the speakers from the amp?

Why aren't there 4 RCA outputs coming from back of radio? I would think one for each speaker and they would go into the 4 RCA inputs on the amp, but I guess not.

BTW, I only have four speakers in my car (factory): 2 3" speakers in front under dash pad (not in doors) and 2 6x9s out back.

Bear with me everyone, I feel I am getting closer. I know it can't be as hard as I (or my car) is making it.

(I hooked up the sound system again from scratch but something was totally off that's why I decided to draw a diagram and ask you guys again.)

-----------------------------------------
351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang notchback
Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl, C4 w/ shift kit
Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft
2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters
Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II
Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s
14 x 4” K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup someday)

"Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

[This message has been edited by Fox Body (edited 07-31-2001).]

Dark_5.0 · 07-31-2001, 01:24 PM

They sell a spliter to turn your two rca outputs on the back of your radio into four rca outputs then it is easy money.

Run the rca cords to the amp and then run the speaker wires from your amp to your speakers the back speakers are self explanitory the front speakers however are a little more difficult you have to run the wires under the carpet and tap into your radio wiring harness cut the wires that went from the radio to the front door speakers and that is were you tie in the amp speaker wires.

do not run your remote wire to the battery run the remote wire to the ignition wire on the back of your head unit this is easy to find

Your head unit has to positive wires that make it works one is wire that goes to the battery and the other is activated when you turn the key I believe it will be either a yellow or a red wire this is easy enough to find with a test light. The light should come on when ignition is on and go off when ignition is off this wire is were you want to tie in your remote wire.

Also make sure that your ground wire for your amp is as short as possible. I always just drill a hole right next to the amp and bolt the wire to the metal floor.

[This message has been edited by 5.0 HO (edited 07-31-2001).]

Fox Body · 08-03-2001, 03:29 AM

That splitter idea was what I was thinking about 5.0 HO.

I think I have something to try out b/t the replies I have gotten from this post so far.

Thanks for helping out guys.

I'll go with it and if it works, wonderful. IF not, i'll be back.....

BTW, any more advice is welcomed.

-----------------------------------------
351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang notchback
Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl, C4 w/ shift kit
Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft
2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters
Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II
Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s
14 x 4” K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup someday)

"Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

untamed351 · 08-05-2001, 09:43 AM

When you run the amp use 4 guage wire for the power and ground. Run the power wire down on side and the remote down the other side of the car. Remote does not have to be anything more than 16 guage. Ground should be less than 2 feet. The amp should be switched to HPF to much low end will destroy the factory speakers. Be very careful on how much the gain is up. Start with it a 1/4 of the way up and go from there. I found tapping into the cigarette power for the remote works good (if it is hooked up to the ignition and not a constant power) as your remote

07-29-2001, 03:01 PM	#1
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	Car Audio 101 (part 2) I know this is long, but all I'm asking is that the ones who have the knowledge, please just take the time WHEN YOU HAVE TIME and look at the diagram and answer the questions. I don't expect you to just jump on in and answer it all in 15 minutes from the time I post it, just when you have time (hopefully in the following day or 2), I'd appreciate you answering these questions. THanks a bunch Here is a diagram of my gameplan for setting up my car audio, but I have a few questions. (Alright, gonna try to explain this as easily/clearly as possible.) See the diagram. See the colorful wires coming out from the left side of head unit? My car has a wiring harness that goes to the four speakers in the car, so if I just want to hook up the radio without the amp, all I have to do is attach the 4 wires plus the black wire (I assume it's a common negative terminal for all the speakrs) coming from the head unit, to the car harness, which also has 4 colorful wires and a separate black wire. SIMPLE ENOUGH, YES. BUT, I wish to hook up the amp b/c the radio seems to hardly push enough. Okay, this is where it gets complicated. You see, in this big audio circuit, the amp must somehow go b/t the radio and the speakers so that whatever comes from the radio is amplified and then put out to the speakes. You follow me so far, right? Good. 1) Looking directly above head unit, see the dark yellow and dark red wires labeled ?2 and ?3. Those are 2 RCA red and white outputs from the back of my head unit. IF there where 4, it would be less confusing b/c I would assume you hook them to the 4 RCA inputs labeled "1CH, 2CH, 3CH, 4CH" in the amp. But there are only 2 so how does that work. . 2) And if those are the outputs, then what do I do with the 4 speaker wires? 3) Why are there only 4 speaker wires? Should there be 8, a negative and positive for each of the 4 speakers??? Even the car harness going to the speakers in car only has 5 wires (4 speaker wires plus black gnd--do all speakes share same negative terminal?) 4) Look at wire labeled ?1. (The quote is what is on a label attached to that wire.) Is that supposed to be hooked to the RMT (remote) on the amp or is the RMT on amp supposed to be hooked to ignition switch power? 5) Why does the amp need a constant power source? (Labeled 12V on amp) 6) So, all in all, the basic question is how do I make this audio circuit? How do I connect the head unit ----> to amp -----> to speakers? Or is it possible with this head unit/amplifier combo? Thanks. ----------------------------------------- 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang notchback Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl, C4 w/ shift kit Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s 14 x 4” K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup someday) "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body [This message has been edited by Fox Body (edited 07-29-2001).]

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07-30-2001, 04:51 PM	#2
KidNotch4793 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Naperville, IL (Burb of Chicago) Posts: 44	I think I know where you are confused. I'll do my best to explain all this. I have a simular set up in my car, but a previous owner set it all up. So here goes... When you hook up a head unit to an amp your not using the amp in the HU therefore your not going to use the speaker output from the HU. The RCA connections on the back of the HU are "pre-outs", meaning pre-amplified. The 2 RCA connections on the back of the HU should be labled "Front" and "Rear" So your gong to want to run 2 RCA cables from that connection to your amp then run speaker wire from the amp to the speakers. The rear speakers are the easy ones. I am not clear on how the front speakers are connected since there is one in the dash and one in the door. I am not sure where the previous owner tapped into the front speakers with the speaker wires from the amp in my car. I have heard they are wired in parallel, but I am not sure of that, Power would be able to help you there. I hope this has helped. If you need a diagram I think can throw one together pretty quick.

07-31-2001, 01:24 PM	#4
Dark_5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Staging lane Posts: 4,337	They sell a spliter to turn your two rca outputs on the back of your radio into four rca outputs then it is easy money. Run the rca cords to the amp and then run the speaker wires from your amp to your speakers the back speakers are self explanitory the front speakers however are a little more difficult you have to run the wires under the carpet and tap into your radio wiring harness cut the wires that went from the radio to the front door speakers and that is were you tie in the amp speaker wires. do not run your remote wire to the battery run the remote wire to the ignition wire on the back of your head unit this is easy to find Your head unit has to positive wires that make it works one is wire that goes to the battery and the other is activated when you turn the key I believe it will be either a yellow or a red wire this is easy enough to find with a test light. The light should come on when ignition is on and go off when ignition is off this wire is were you want to tie in your remote wire. Also make sure that your ground wire for your amp is as short as possible. I always just drill a hole right next to the amp and bolt the wire to the metal floor. [This message has been edited by 5.0 HO (edited 07-31-2001).]

08-03-2001, 03:29 AM	#5
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	That splitter idea was what I was thinking about 5.0 HO. I think I have something to try out b/t the replies I have gotten from this post so far. Thanks for helping out guys. I'll go with it and if it works, wonderful. IF not, i'll be back..... BTW, any more advice is welcomed. ----------------------------------------- 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang notchback Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl, C4 w/ shift kit Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s 14 x 4” K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup someday) "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

08-05-2001, 09:43 AM	#6
untamed351 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Belmar, NJ Posts: 52	When you run the amp use 4 guage wire for the power and ground. Run the power wire down on side and the remote down the other side of the car. Remote does not have to be anything more than 16 guage. Ground should be less than 2 feet. The amp should be switched to HPF to much low end will destroy the factory speakers. Be very careful on how much the gain is up. Start with it a 1/4 of the way up and go from there. I found tapping into the cigarette power for the remote works good (if it is hooked up to the ignition and not a constant power) as your remote