Selling my car, need detailing tips...

tra9379 · 05-27-2000, 02:20 PM

Yep guys, the 90 notch is going away. I'm actually getting rid of a 5.0 in favor a a 4 banger. (I'll explain later, but here's a hint S-V-O). How do I get my car to look kick a$$ for when I put it up for sale.

Thanx
Tra

------------------
90 LX Coupe - MAC Headers, Off-Road H-Pipe, MAC Cat Back, K&N Cone, Built AOD Tranny.

cad614 · 05-27-2000, 08:09 PM

In my opinion, the best way to get it looking that good is to take it to a professional. Last summer for a car show I spent all night (9pm - 6am) getting my car ready. I used the "best" products, as recomended by our friends here at Mustangworks, and it still didn't look as good as those that had been taken to a shop. It costs around $100 here (West Texas), but the quality is much better than than I could ever accomplish especially around the engine.

Good luck with the S-V-O, hope everything works out.

------------------
'95 GT Convertable

tra9379 · 05-27-2000, 09:03 PM

Actually around here it's more like $200 and you get the worst wax job you've ever seen. And I'm trying to save on the cash to pay for this SVO.

cad614 · 05-27-2000, 11:11 PM

Well sounds like that my first idea isn't going to work for you. The best tip I can think of is to use a clay bar. It made my car look worlds better. After that, a good coat of wax and the paint is looking great. For tire dressings I don't recommend using Meguiar's tire gel, it will keep a shine for weeks, but only if there is no dust. I just started using STP Sun of a Gun Protectant and although it isn't a "wet" shine it's a very even black that has lasted for 5 days and counting. Then polish the chrome and the exterior is finished.

As far as the interior, I'd rent a carpet cleaner (like a Rug Doctor) and get your floormats and seats cleaned. This should only cost around $20 and you could go ahead and clean the house while you have it. Armorall Interior has worked well for me, it dosent attract dust like most products will, just make sure it's interior and not origional armorall. Finish it off with a "new car scent" air freshner and it's just like new.

I don't have any usefull advise on cleaning the engine, but if you find something that works let me know.

Hope this is more helpfull than my last post. Good luck.

tra9379 · 05-28-2000, 12:15 AM

Thanx buddy, I'll give that clay bar a shot.

Thanx
Tra

R WEIR · 05-28-2000, 08:04 AM

Bring it to my shop and I will give it the works for $125. Thats hwmuch I charge car dealers to recon their stuff. I do recomend a pro get it ready we can make it look its very best. I recomend a good buffing with the 3M Perfect It II System, and a good interrior shampoo.Clean all the little things like take the ash tray out clean it and paint it it it has been smoked it. Use an aerosol dressing in you vents to hide the dust and dirt. Spray some under coating in the wheel wells ect.. claen behind the sunvisors and clean the mirrors on the visors I know that sounds stupid but people look at these things.

------------------
79 CAPRI
69 351w bored .030 69 heads 202/160 valves stage 3 port job
milled to a 54 cc chamber Stealth intake modified 750 holley
1.6 roller rockers C6 3500 rpm stall 3.73 gears converted to 5
lug moser 31 spline axles 8 pt cage and a shot n2o to top it off

[This message has been edited by R WEIR (edited 05-28-2000).]

Mr 5 0 · 05-28-2000, 01:51 PM

tra9379:

My LX is 10 years old, never garaged, driven almost daily and it still gets double takes and favorable comments on it's appearance from folks. It's on Users Rides.

The secret is to never let the paint, trim, interior or engine get so far gone that you can't 'bring it back'.

That said; Each spring, I (now) use a clay bar, then Zymol polish/wax on the finish.
I use Mothers 'Back to Black' for all the black rubber trim, tires and even the plastic gas tank covering (it shows from behind and is a detailing item, in my book).
I use 0000 grade steel wool on the LX exhaust tips. Use an old paintbrush to clean the crud from the door jambs (polish).

Interior gets Blue Coral shampoo and Armor All plastic cleaner, then the Back to Black on all interior plastic, including the hatch cover, tailight tops, etc. Do everything.

Engine is cleaned with 'Simple Green' (professional grade-hard to get) and a car-wash hose. Cover all electrical connections: alternator, distributor, etc and avoid direct spray where you don't need it. I hit the front of the heads and most of the lower part of the engine and engine bay. Then it's detail!
I use fine steel wool and metal polish on the plain metal parts, and regular auto polish on the intake and valve covers.
I use Armor All on the plug wires and black plastic parts. A toothbrush is a big help here. Yes, it's tedious but very rewarding when you open your hood, even on a mostly stock engine like mine. Trust me on this.
I recommend a new hood insulation pad if yours is ratty and dirty. I got a new one from Mustangs Unlimited for $72. last year.
Installs in 10 minutes (no tools needed) and makes a nice difference under the hood.

I did have a detailer friend give my Mustang a professional polish/buffing 2 years ago and it paid off, although he said my clearcoat is pretty thin at this point.
He taped all the non-metal parts on the body and did a beautiful job, well worth what I paid him ($100.).

The Bottom Line is: detail.
Clean and polish all the little parts as well as the obvious stuff. Don't overlook anything, as R. Weir suggested, and your 'Stang will look great when you're finished. Good Luck to you.

tra9379 · 05-28-2000, 06:13 PM

thanx man

chadallen1 · 11-20-2000, 11:41 AM

Hey,
I'm a detailer and one tip is to use a buffer and put the wax on. Apply all the wax all over the car. Then when you take it off use a new cloth and lay a towel folded on the hood. Put the Buffer on the cloth centered and take it off. This gives a gleam which looks awesome. After all this is done, wipe the entire car down once again to get dust off. This should give it a new car finish. It does for me.

Note: use a detailing brush and compressed air to clean the vents. A Big Plus!!
Sincerely
Chad

tra9379 · 11-20-2000, 10:56 PM

thanx, but I ended up not selling the car, and getting it repainted. Now I like that car again.

asphaltpounder26 · 12-04-2000, 05:33 AM

I'm also an auto detailer and have been for about 11 years and am ranked as one of the best in the Twin Cities. The average joe doesnt have compressed air or a carpet shampooer. He does however have a plethura of alternate options.#1-cleaning all fabrics....it comes in a primarily yellow can and is called "Tuff Stuff", I believe it's produced by Blue Coral (not my first choice in chemicals but this stuff isnt typical blue coral). Easy instructions and phenominal results with minumal effort. Any joe can use this stuff and not regret putting out hard earned dollars for it. #2-ALL that plastick and whatnot....I hate most of the Armor All products because of the oil (as oppose to silicone (far higher baking point....good for moldings tires and interior stuff)), however the Armor All all purpose interior cleaner stuff does a beautiful job when combined with a detail brush (DO NOT get this or anytype of preserver on your guages). Once again minumal effort. #3-steam cleaning that nasty engine bay....I'm sure that all of us have an auto parts store as well as a coin operated car wash at our disposal. Stop by the auto parts store and pick up a can or two ( depending on how dirty it is ) of Gunk engine degreaser and run on over the the wash. Let your car get plenty warm and keep it running during the whole process ( this will help keep you from getting water up into that distributor cap ). Give it a healthy coating of the cleaner and then crank up the preassure washer...you get the picture. After getting it back home wipe it down and throw on your favorite brightener and you shuold have that show shine

[/B][/QUOTE]

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05-27-2000, 02:20 PM	#1
tra9379 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Burbank, IL Posts: 249	Selling my car, need detailing tips... Yep guys, the 90 notch is going away. I'm actually getting rid of a 5.0 in favor a a 4 banger. (I'll explain later, but here's a hint S-V-O). How do I get my car to look kick a$$ for when I put it up for sale. Thanx Tra ------------------ 90 LX Coupe - MAC Headers, Off-Road H-Pipe, MAC Cat Back, K&N Cone, Built AOD Tranny.

05-27-2000, 08:09 PM	#2
cad614 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: San Angelo, TX Posts: 377	In my opinion, the best way to get it looking that good is to take it to a professional. Last summer for a car show I spent all night (9pm - 6am) getting my car ready. I used the "best" products, as recomended by our friends here at Mustangworks, and it still didn't look as good as those that had been taken to a shop. It costs around $100 here (West Texas), but the quality is much better than than I could ever accomplish especially around the engine. Good luck with the S-V-O, hope everything works out. ------------------ '95 GT Convertable

05-27-2000, 09:03 PM	#3
tra9379 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Burbank, IL Posts: 249	Actually around here it's more like $200 and you get the worst wax job you've ever seen. And I'm trying to save on the cash to pay for this SVO.

05-27-2000, 11:11 PM	#4
cad614 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: San Angelo, TX Posts: 377	Well sounds like that my first idea isn't going to work for you. The best tip I can think of is to use a clay bar. It made my car look worlds better. After that, a good coat of wax and the paint is looking great. For tire dressings I don't recommend using Meguiar's tire gel, it will keep a shine for weeks, but only if there is no dust. I just started using STP Sun of a Gun Protectant and although it isn't a "wet" shine it's a very even black that has lasted for 5 days and counting. Then polish the chrome and the exterior is finished. As far as the interior, I'd rent a carpet cleaner (like a Rug Doctor) and get your floormats and seats cleaned. This should only cost around $20 and you could go ahead and clean the house while you have it. Armorall Interior has worked well for me, it dosent attract dust like most products will, just make sure it's interior and not origional armorall. Finish it off with a "new car scent" air freshner and it's just like new. I don't have any usefull advise on cleaning the engine, but if you find something that works let me know. Hope this is more helpfull than my last post. Good luck.

05-28-2000, 12:15 AM	#5
tra9379 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Burbank, IL Posts: 249	Thanx buddy, I'll give that clay bar a shot. Thanx Tra

05-28-2000, 08:04 AM	#6
R WEIR Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: caledonia, OH usa Posts: 288	Bring it to my shop and I will give it the works for $125. Thats hwmuch I charge car dealers to recon their stuff. I do recomend a pro get it ready we can make it look its very best. I recomend a good buffing with the 3M Perfect It II System, and a good interrior shampoo.Clean all the little things like take the ash tray out clean it and paint it it it has been smoked it. Use an aerosol dressing in you vents to hide the dust and dirt. Spray some under coating in the wheel wells ect.. claen behind the sunvisors and clean the mirrors on the visors I know that sounds stupid but people look at these things. ------------------ 79 CAPRI 69 351w bored .030 69 heads 202/160 valves stage 3 port job milled to a 54 cc chamber Stealth intake modified 750 holley 1.6 roller rockers C6 3500 rpm stall 3.73 gears converted to 5 lug moser 31 spline axles 8 pt cage and a shot n2o to top it off [This message has been edited by R WEIR (edited 05-28-2000).]

05-28-2000, 01:51 PM	#7
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	tra9379: My LX is 10 years old, never garaged, driven almost daily and it still gets double takes and favorable comments on it's appearance from folks. It's on Users Rides. The secret is to never let the paint, trim, interior or engine get so far gone that you can't 'bring it back'. That said; Each spring, I (now) use a clay bar, then Zymol polish/wax on the finish. I use Mothers 'Back to Black' for all the black rubber trim, tires and even the plastic gas tank covering (it shows from behind and is a detailing item, in my book). I use 0000 grade steel wool on the LX exhaust tips. Use an old paintbrush to clean the crud from the door jambs (polish). Interior gets Blue Coral shampoo and Armor All plastic cleaner, then the Back to Black on all interior plastic, including the hatch cover, tailight tops, etc. Do everything. Engine is cleaned with 'Simple Green' (professional grade-hard to get) and a car-wash hose. Cover all electrical connections: alternator, distributor, etc and avoid direct spray where you don't need it. I hit the front of the heads and most of the lower part of the engine and engine bay. Then it's detail! I use fine steel wool and metal polish on the plain metal parts, and regular auto polish on the intake and valve covers. I use Armor All on the plug wires and black plastic parts. A toothbrush is a big help here. Yes, it's tedious but very rewarding when you open your hood, even on a mostly stock engine like mine. Trust me on this. I recommend a new hood insulation pad if yours is ratty and dirty. I got a new one from Mustangs Unlimited for $72. last year. Installs in 10 minutes (no tools needed) and makes a nice difference under the hood. I did have a detailer friend give my Mustang a professional polish/buffing 2 years ago and it paid off, although he said my clearcoat is pretty thin at this point. He taped all the non-metal parts on the body and did a beautiful job, well worth what I paid him ($100.). The Bottom Line is: detail. Clean and polish all the little parts as well as the obvious stuff. Don't overlook anything, as R. Weir suggested, and your 'Stang will look great when you're finished. Good Luck to you.

05-28-2000, 06:13 PM	#8
tra9379 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Burbank, IL Posts: 249	thanx man

11-20-2000, 11:41 AM	#9
chadallen1 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Nixa, MO, U.S Posts: 4	Hey, I'm a detailer and one tip is to use a buffer and put the wax on. Apply all the wax all over the car. Then when you take it off use a new cloth and lay a towel folded on the hood. Put the Buffer on the cloth centered and take it off. This gives a gleam which looks awesome. After all this is done, wipe the entire car down once again to get dust off. This should give it a new car finish. It does for me. Note: use a detailing brush and compressed air to clean the vents. A Big Plus!! Sincerely Chad

11-20-2000, 10:56 PM	#10
tra9379 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Burbank, IL Posts: 249	thanx, but I ended up not selling the car, and getting it repainted. Now I like that car again.

12-04-2000, 05:33 AM	#11
asphaltpounder26 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: St. Paul, MN USA Posts: 4	I'm also an auto detailer and have been for about 11 years and am ranked as one of the best in the Twin Cities. The average joe doesnt have compressed air or a carpet shampooer. He does however have a plethura of alternate options.#1-cleaning all fabrics....it comes in a primarily yellow can and is called "Tuff Stuff", I believe it's produced by Blue Coral (not my first choice in chemicals but this stuff isnt typical blue coral). Easy instructions and phenominal results with minumal effort. Any joe can use this stuff and not regret putting out hard earned dollars for it. #2-ALL that plastick and whatnot....I hate most of the Armor All products because of the oil (as oppose to silicone (far higher baking point....good for moldings tires and interior stuff)), however the Armor All all purpose interior cleaner stuff does a beautiful job when combined with a detail brush (DO NOT get this or anytype of preserver on your guages). Once again minumal effort. #3-steam cleaning that nasty engine bay....I'm sure that all of us have an auto parts store as well as a coin operated car wash at our disposal. Stop by the auto parts store and pick up a can or two ( depending on how dirty it is ) of Gunk engine degreaser and run on over the the wash. Let your car get plenty warm and keep it running during the whole process ( this will help keep you from getting water up into that distributor cap ). Give it a healthy coating of the cleaner and then crank up the preassure washer...you get the picture. After getting it back home wipe it down and throw on your favorite brightener and you shuold have that show shine [/B][/QUOTE]