![SEARCH](http://www.mustangworks.com/images/search.png)
![The Mustang Works](http://www.mustangworks.com/images/mw_footer_logo.gif)
© Copyright 1995 thru 2008 - The Mustang Works™. All Rights Reserved.
MustangWorks.com is designed and hosted by Aero3 Media.
MustangWorks.com is designed and hosted by Aero3 Media.
![]() |
#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 47
|
![]() Once I save up enough cash, I plan on repainting my mustang. There's some bubbling and there are a couple spots that I know will have to get filled. Could someone please tell me the correct procedure in wet sanding and filling in the spots. I want to do as much as possible to the body so it will cut down on the labor when I have Macco (most likely) repaint it. Thanks
Harold |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 950
|
![]() Go to your auto store and get an idiot stick. Its just a large sanding board that you run your sandpaper on, it helps alot and makes it turn out alot better. Never use your hand, because even though it might not seem like it, your not pushing down equally on your fingers. Sand down all the way to metal, and then unless its really dry, prime it with automotive primer. (spray can stuff didnt really seem to work too well for me, gums up) After than, attack the larger dents, either knock them out or use filler. When using filler, sand it down all the way to metal, and put the filler on top of the bare metal. After it dries, sand it down. If your wet sanding, (which makes it alot easier to sand, doesnt gum up as quick) make sure to take a propane torch and go over the filler, you will see the water come out of it, otherwise the water will be caught in there and start new rust. You will have to fill and sand alot to get it perfect. Start with the fiberglass reinforced filler (short strand) then after you have it roughed out go to the normal filler. Prime it again, use a filler primer, helps fill in the waves and whatnot. Spray on a guidecoat, sand some more. Try not to sand verticle or horizontial, go diagional. Hope this helps a bit, I would just go to google and search for painting cars, there is tons of stuff out there. I believe Mustangsandfords.com has a couple good articles about preparing a car for paint, so does Hotrod.com. You will learn alot from just doing it though.
__________________
Alex |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: East Long Island
Posts: 180
|
![]() Speaking of Macco...I'm presently refitting my Mineral Grey 2001 GT with 2003 and 2004 OEM Cobra parts including unpainted bumpers, a sonic blue trunk from a 2003 Cobra, an unpainted OEM 2004 Cobra hood and I want the best paint job possible...but I here Macco is kinda the 7-11 donut rack of auto painting, would anyone else trust a car like this to Macco?...Where should I go?
__________________
Greeeeeeeg |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 950
|
![]() I would check out some of the small family owned shops, hey seem to do a better job. (at least where I live) Probably due to the fact that they have more to lose than a large company. Macco advertises price, not quality.
__________________
Alex |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: East Long Island
Posts: 180
|
![]() Thats a good point, thanks. I was just up there..from the outside the place looked like a crack house, and I could even tell from the guy's face as he was trying to hide it that he was ready to tell me he would never trust a rebuilt 2001 Mustang to that shop for a factory-like paint job. I'll see what I find on the street.
__________________
Greeeeeeeg |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Rusty oil pan...repaint? | chris91LX | Windsor Power | 2 | 02-22-2001 04:24 PM |
71 Mach 1 Bumper - Repaint & Touch up | gofishing | Classic Mustangs | 6 | 07-25-1999 05:10 PM |