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01-04-2004, 05:41 PM | #1 |
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Location: Mountaintop, PA
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A Great Wax
I have been waxing my cars for as long as I have been driving. I thought I had tried everything and I know that I probably have not even scratch the surface of all the available products out there.
I finally bit the bullit and used Maguires three stage program. I have avoided these type of "stage" products in the past because of time considerations. But, I must admit, the extra work was worth the effort. What an awesome job. I never knew the car could shine so well. In reality, it did not take very long. Besides not having a roof to wax, the three products (cleaner, sealer, and wax) went on and came off easy. I will definately use this stuff again.
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"Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way) |
01-04-2004, 10:34 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: GA, U.S.A
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Thanks for the info. I guess you've tried Mothers Pure Carnauba Wax. That's what I use. AWESOME! Looks like i put lipstick on the car . And it lasts a LOT longer than I thougt it would b4 I started using it (b/c I used to use Turtle Wax which didn't last too long.... ). I guess after I finish using up the Mothers, I'll try Meguires stuff. Anytime I see threads about wax, I always see Mothers and Meguires on the top of the list...
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351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
01-05-2004, 12:49 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Orange, TX
Posts: 360
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I just did Meguiars this holiday and agree 100%. See my avitar. The 3 phase system made my 1996 T-Bird shine like new money. You do need to go by the directions and not let the the cleaner or polish dry before removal. I even went for their cordless buffer. It is like a cordless drill and comes with a battery charger and two big batteries. It is a horse. I recommend it.
They also make a quick detailer I can recommend to clean off the bird do etc. in between waxes. Hey your post on Invisible Glass has been a great improvement. That is great stuff and combined with RainX is unbeatable. Of course you have to rub the hell out of your windows but the whole family, even mother-in-law, have been impressed. Meguiars are the Mirror Glaze people after all.
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2003 3.8 Mineral Gray, MAC CAI, K&N, Chin Spoiler |
01-05-2004, 12:54 AM | #4 |
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Location: Orange, TX
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OBTW they have a great web site
http://www.meguiars.com/ Of course they tell you to wax and polish 12 times a year. I don't know what their rx would be for say Denver but for the Gulf Coast wax on wax off wax on wax off like the Karate Kid is their recommendation.
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2003 3.8 Mineral Gray, MAC CAI, K&N, Chin Spoiler |
01-05-2004, 04:36 AM | #5 |
It's never clean enough!
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Shaler, PA
Posts: 1,542
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I use wax called S100. It's available at Harley Davidson shops for around $15. You can apply it in direct sunlight or shade. You wipe it on in a circular motion and then remove it immediately. No drying or waiting for it to haze. It goes on like butter and comes off just as easily. Put on your favorite classical music, pour a nice glass of wine, and wax your car like it was intended.
If you want to get serious about detailing, I highly recommend checking out www.autopia.org There is alot of great info on that site and non-biased info about all kinds of cleaners, polishes, waxes, towels, etc.
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~Dan 2001 SVT Lightning 89' GT : Taking up garage space and waiting for a buyer... Rice Hater's Club - Member #11 |
01-05-2004, 07:27 AM | #6 |
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Sounds good. Some question on Autopia about S100 being discontinued. Have not yet looked into that but I noticed the post first thing.
http://www.autopia.org/forums/showth...116#post293116 And how many applications to a normal sized sedan would a jar of S100 have on average? And is there a "used by date" on it? And for clarification, is the S100 still being discontinued as I have read in previous threads ( ~3 months ago )? Looks like a good site. Thanks
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2003 3.8 Mineral Gray, MAC CAI, K&N, Chin Spoiler |
01-05-2004, 04:12 PM | #7 |
It's never clean enough!
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Shaler, PA
Posts: 1,542
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To my knowledge, S100 has not/is not going to be discontinued. As mentioned in that Autopia thread, S100 is also known as P21S. It's the same product but the P21S is about $10 more per jar than S100. Same product, different packaging, different price.
A jar will last you quite a while. Probably 20-25 waxes. You really don't use a whole lot when you apply. Less is really more. Since you wipe it off right after you apply it, you want to put it on in a thin layer. All of the excess gets wiped off so using more than a thin layer would just be wasteful. Because S100 is a true carnuba wax, you only apply it every 2 or 3 weeks. Because I don't drive my car very much, I usually apply a coat of S100 every 3 weeks in the summer. In between coats, I use a quick detailer called Pinnacle Crystal Mist. It is a carnuba quick detailer that will maintain that just waxed look and wil allow each coat of S100 to last longet before it needs re-applied. You can find any of these products (and the ones they talk about on Autopia) at www.properautocare.com I have had my S100 for about a year now. Same jar and it's only half gone (~15 waxes). It has been in temperatures ranging from room temperature all the way down to about 35* and it still performs as good as it did the first time I applied it. If you are worried about it 'expiring' or getting old, you could always throw it in the fridge in-between waxes which might make it last longer but if it just sits out, you shouldn't have to worry about it going bad or expiring. One more thing, I would also recommend a microfiber towel to remove the S100 with (and do the rest of your detailing with). Microfiber is softer than cotton and WILL NOT SCRATCH the clearcoat or leave little swirl marks. For towels, I recommend www.pakshak.com Ranney has some great prices and his customer service is outstanding! After spending some time on Autopia, you will learn alot of new information. Washing, drying, polishing, waxing, how to wash your towels, products to use, etc. It's the best site for detailing that I have found and the information isn't biased toward one company or another. Everyone can give their opinion on what works and what doesn't.
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~Dan 2001 SVT Lightning 89' GT : Taking up garage space and waiting for a buyer... Rice Hater's Club - Member #11 |
01-07-2004, 10:38 PM | #8 |
Mustang Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Tyler, TX
Posts: 568
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A perfect wax
I have been using Zaino products for about 2 years, the slickest finish I have ever seen, I heard about it from some guys in my club Mustangs of East Texas. Its expensive and you can't buy it at Walmart, but worth it! Every time you apply the Show Car Polish the shine gets deeper!
I have bought it at Car Shows and Swap Meets, but you can get it online at http://www.zainobros.com. You will never go back to Walmart for waxes again. |
01-08-2004, 12:43 AM | #9 | |
It's never clean enough!
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Shaler, PA
Posts: 1,542
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Re: A perfect wax
Quote:
Detailing all comes down to personal preference. Listen to what people like and don't like, then try a few different products to see what works. For me, I will continue to use S100 until my jar is empty, then I might switch to another carnuba. This reflection pic is with 3M fine cut compound, 3M swirl mark remover, 2 coats of 3M imperial hand glaze, and 2 coats of S100 carnuba wax as a topper. All products were applied BY HAND. No machines were used. Original 14 year old paint.
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~Dan 2001 SVT Lightning 89' GT : Taking up garage space and waiting for a buyer... Rice Hater's Club - Member #11 |
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01-08-2004, 06:22 PM | #10 |
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Location: Orange, TX
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What the F#$@@@ are you saying the pic is taken as a reflection off the side of your car!? I've see your avitar and wondered what it was. Someone taking a pic of you taking a pic but your saying it is your refelection on the side of your newly polished Mustang. That's cool. Yeah I'd say your wax is pretty good.
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2003 3.8 Mineral Gray, MAC CAI, K&N, Chin Spoiler |
01-08-2004, 07:16 PM | #11 |
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OBTW I ordered the MF towels fro pakshak. I will comment on them after I use them. They sound great according to the testimonials on the web site.
I do have a lot to learn about detailing. I like a shinny car... and with a 2003 I have a chance to see how long it will last. My 1996 was not cared for in the best way before I got it. Guess I will have to research how to get out swirls and other damaged areas and see If I can get it back. Can't afford a paint job.
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2003 3.8 Mineral Gray, MAC CAI, K&N, Chin Spoiler |
01-08-2004, 07:38 PM | #12 |
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Location: Mountaintop, PA
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You mean that was a photo of a reflection? I just ordered that wax.
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"Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way) |
01-08-2004, 08:07 PM | #13 |
It's never clean enough!
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Shaler, PA
Posts: 1,542
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To clear up any confusion, here's a detailed description of the pic I posted.....
1. I used the products mentioned earlier to polish and wax my car. 2. After waxing, I grabbed the digital camera and walked to the driver side of the car. 3. With camera in hand, I bent down and pointed the camera at the car. The resulting pic is what you see. Keep in mind, the S100 wax doesn't do it all. You still need a 'cleaner' and a 'polish' before the wax is applied. Wax is only a final 'topper' to the paint. Detailing is just like anything else where "it's all in the prep". You have to get the finish clean and smooth before any wax is applied for the best results hence the need for a cleaning step and then a polishing step. The first two steps from Meguiars (of the 3-step system) should work fine as a cleaner and polish. Then instead of using the thrid step, sub-in the S100 as your topper. I've never tried it but it should work rather well. John, be sure to report back about the towels you receive from Ranney. BTW, which towels did you go with? I think you'll see his service and quality are unmatched!!! Also, if anyone hasn't used them before, I highly recommend using a clay bar prior to using any sort of cleaner. The clay bar will leave the paint as smooth as glass and only needs to be used about twice a year (once in the spring for the first detail of the season, and usually once in late summer)
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~Dan 2001 SVT Lightning 89' GT : Taking up garage space and waiting for a buyer... Rice Hater's Club - Member #11 |
01-08-2004, 08:58 PM | #14 |
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Stang Crazy:
What is the deal with these clay bars? I have seen them, but have not tried one. How long does this take? Do you go over the entire surface or just in spots that need the most attention. I have been afraid to try one. Is there anything I need to know?
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"Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way) |
01-09-2004, 12:55 AM | #15 | ||
It's never clean enough!
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Shaler, PA
Posts: 1,542
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Quote:
Quote:
Basically this is how you use it: You need to lube the paint surface so the clay bar can slide across the paint. Some companies sell a premixed lube but you can make your own with some car wash liquid. I usually use 1 oz. of car wash for every 10 oz. of water. I mix it in a spray bottle and shake it up so it foams. Working in a 1'x1' or 2'x2' area (just like waxing/polishing), spray the lube mix onto the paint. With the area wet, take the claybar and slide it across the paint. You don't need to push down on it or use alot of pressure. Moderate to light pressure is enough. As the bar slides across the paint, you will be able to hear it going over all of the tiny imperfections that you may not even see. Keep lubing the paint and sliding the bar until you can't hear the bar moving over the paint. It's kinda hard to describe but you will be able to tell when the area is clean. When you move on to the next section, there will be a noticable difference between the area already done and the new area. Just make sure you use enough lube that the bar slides. If the bar starts to 'stick' on the paint, you're not using enough lube so just give it a few spritzes and continue on. Also, turn the clay over every now and then and look at it. If the side you are using is getting too dirty, flip the bar and use the other side. When both sides are too dirty to use, you can stretch and fold the clay to expose a new side to work with. One bar should do an entire car pretty easily. Don't worry about any excess lube or water that is left on each section after it's clayed. When the entire car has been clayed, wash it to remove any lube that was left. After the car is clayed and washed, you will notice how much smoother it is. When you apply your cleaner or polish, it will feel like you're applying it on glass. Most people can't believe the difference a claybar makes! One more thing, the claybar will remove any wax/polish that is on your car so after claying, you will have to re-apply it. The claybar is really simple to use and virtually impossible to screw up (use plenty of lube) and the smooth finish it leaves will make your cleaner/polish/wax look and feel that much better.
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~Dan 2001 SVT Lightning 89' GT : Taking up garage space and waiting for a buyer... Rice Hater's Club - Member #11 |
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01-09-2004, 01:00 AM | #16 |
It's never clean enough!
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Shaler, PA
Posts: 1,542
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Double post. Doh!
If I can think of anything else relating to claybars, I'll post it. And if you have any more questions, feel free to ask!
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~Dan 2001 SVT Lightning 89' GT : Taking up garage space and waiting for a buyer... Rice Hater's Club - Member #11 |
01-09-2004, 01:30 AM | #17 |
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Thank you for the instructions. I am going to do it!
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"Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way) |
01-09-2004, 10:28 AM | #18 |
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Location: Georgia!
Posts: 139
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Clay Bars
I have a clay bar and Ilove it ... I have never clean the whole car with it. bit it is excellent at getting tree sapp off the car which is a big prob down here... they can get a little pricey.. I think I bought mine from walmart for 11 dollars. which was alot for all that you got.
as for waxes... I like zymol... now that is a GREAT wax and they make great car washes too. the wax is 18 dollars a bottle. and car wash is 14 i think. They are more expensive than others but they are most definatly worth it. The wax helps to get minor scratches out... but they make one that helps with mild as well... the car wash also helps to get dead paint and wax off... I swear your car feels like silk after your finshed. Zymol also makes a product called falout (I think is what its called) but you wash your car in sections with it... and it gets sapp and stuff like that off... It also protects the car against acid rain and such... I really think Zymol makes some really great products you should try them... www.zymol.com actully when i got my stang... the dealer reccomended it.. because that was what they clean their cars with.
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JERRI 2000 V6 Stang so far only exaust and BBK CAI |
01-09-2004, 12:11 PM | #19 | |
It's never clean enough!
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Shaler, PA
Posts: 1,542
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Re: Clay Bars
Quote:
If we keep throwing products out there, Blake is going to have an arseload of new detailing supplies this year!
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~Dan 2001 SVT Lightning 89' GT : Taking up garage space and waiting for a buyer... Rice Hater's Club - Member #11 |
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01-09-2004, 02:12 PM | #20 |
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Location: Georgia!
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speaking of which I really need to stock up... out of car wash! who cares though i cant wash my car anytime soon...lol
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JERRI 2000 V6 Stang so far only exaust and BBK CAI |
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