question & advice...please

[Robocop]

I have been planning and saving for my 331 build up for a long time.I have a chance to sale my new 331 shortblock for what I paid for it and I need advice first.I have been searching this site for advice for months and have found that many people choose to use their block and purchase stroker kits when rebuilding.I have been checking sites and think that I may be able to use better internals (if I use my stock block)due to the savings of going with the stroker kit.I can buy better parts and have cash left for other items.I noticed that many places have a 331 kit for around 1400.00 or so with forged pieces.The price jumps to around 2600.00 with the short block.Why is this?I realize that a few other parts are included as well as assembly but most places use a seasoned block just like my stock one.Will I be better off to buy better internals and place the kit in my block or should I just stay with my already purchased 331 D.S.S. stock stroker?I notice most people worry about quality with an assembly line type stroker short block and I would like the added comfort of knowing mine was built to my picky standards.I know this is long but man I will have a lot of cash in this project and I want to enjoy it for many years so please bare with me.Just give me your past experiences or any added knowledge you may have.Would it be worth putting high dollar forged parts in a stock seasoned block?Or will this average 331 short block suit my needs?I am basically wanting around 400 rwhp and it will be street driven a few times monthly with rare trips to the track.

[tmoss]

Take your time, get your stock block checked to see if it needs to be bored and get it bored or honed with torque plates, get the mains aligned honed and put the kit in yourself. Make sure you get a good reputable shop to do the machine work.

Oh yeh, plasti-gage your mains and rods for clearance.

[silver_pilate]

Increased prices result from the price of the block (figure a couple of hundred), the machine work, and the assembly. I figure labor costs to make up most of the difference.

If you're not going for all an out track/race build, your stock block should be fine. Your stock block should easily handle the power levels you want if it's filled with the right parts. Many heat cycles have already "seasoned" it, and with good internals and a main stud girdle, it can handle pretty good power. The biggest drawback is the extended labor you will have to do for assembly, but that's not really a drawback, is it?

Get your block magnafluxed, checked for cracks, and checked for cylinder wear and trueness (bore it over if needed), and do what was suggested by tmoss.

If you're into building your own stuff, it'll save you money at the expense of time.

--nathan

[302 LX Eric]

That's right, the jump in cost is mainly due to the machining of the block / labor of prepping the block and assembly. It doesn't just 'bolt-on' in a couple of hours...you've got clearancing to do, honing, boring, balancing, etc.

Do you have a reputable machine shop in your area? If so, I would engage them about doing the maching of the block and assembly. It will give you an idea of how much they are going to charge you and will give you another option to consider.

On the flip side, you don't hear about many Bennett or DSS built motors taking a dump on their owners....so you may want to consider having them do the entire short block.

E

[Robocop]

Thanks for the input and advice.I think I am just worried about the quality.I will have a lot tied up in this thing and if it goes bad it will take years to get the cash,time and patience to rebuild.There is not any quality shops in my area(Bham,Alabama)with the exception of a place called Hesco automotive.This guy is said to be good but he has no competition around and thus is free to charge outrageous prices for his work.I think I will keep my DSS shortblock.Is it a good idea to take this shortblock apart and check the internals or should I just trust that it is right?My original plan was to slowly build my stock block for experience and a spare motor anyway.This project is way more complicated and costly than I planned for but it is very rewarding to think of my stang back on the road again soon.Thanks for the replies again.

[0h n0 5.0]

hey man, i'm in birmingham i'd highly recomend shankenstein racing in hueytown. shane knows his stuff. has a turbo charged 92 jus dynoed shy of 800 hp. runnin in comerce at FFW saturday. if they can't help ya, check w/walker dynotune, blake 's a nice guy an knows mustangs.
a guy in my club has said good things about barely legal performance, but my block is stock. so i can't really recomend anybody from experiance. Shankenstein is where i'd start.

[Robocop]

Thank you for the suggestions.I have been out of the loop for a while and really did not know of any good shops nearby.I have checked around and also heard of a place called Howtons machine shop in Hueytown and another called auto & diesel machine shop in Bham.The only mustang only shop I have found nearby is Coats performance in Centerpoint but I have gotten mixed reviews about his place and the verdict is still un-decided.I do remember a fox body running at Steele with a Shankenstein decal and it was very strong with some low 11 sec. passes but I thought the decal was his name or something.Anyway I will check the places you have mentioned and thanks again.

[USMC302]

I just purchased a 331 kit from The Mustang Depot out of Cali, $996.00 with flat top pistons, racing lightweight rods, bearings, rings, the whole nine yards. The piston are flycut and everything for my TW heads. I will be bringing the block to have it boiled and tested, and have new cam bearings and such installed. But I was pushing close to 350hp with this stock block and it has held up, so with the main girdle and everything, i think it will be fine for the extra 50 or 70 hp I will be trying to sqeeze out of it.