At this point, the only way to do it correctly is to actually measure the pinion depth. There is no 'factory' shim thickness; each rear is built up with the shim that it requires, it could be 0.005" or 0.032" or anything else for that matter. Now that you've used different gears from different manufacturers you'll need to actually measure the pinion depth and match it with the depth etched on the pinion. Pinion depth guages are pretty expensive ranging from $150 to well over $700. The kit I use is similar to the Zoom kit and runs more than $700 but its the best way to make sure the pinion depth is exactly what the manufacturer recommends. Keep in mind also that as you change your pinion depth, you're going to have to reshim the carrier to get the proper backlash and pattern.
The only way that you could take a shortcut is to remove the pinion bearing and hone it out with a brake cyliner hone so that it slips freely on-and-off the pinion. This will let you try several shims until you find the correct shim for the gearset. But its a long a tedious process since you have to install a shim, set the pionion up with proper preload (cut the locking threads off a pinion nut so that it goes on-and-off freely), then set up the carrier for proper pattern and backlash. The make the final assembly with a new pinion bearing. In the end though you'll probably still have a gearset that you're not happy with. That's why I always recommend finding a reputable shop to do the gear work. For a street driven car, its imperative that they're set up correctly or they'll always be problems. I think I'd look for another shop that can fix the problem.
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Jeff Chambers
T/S #3
11.611 Seconds/116.7 MPH
Chambers Racing Team