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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 68
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![]() I spent the day finishing my install of a new suspension and brakes, and everything went smoothly until I looked at the brake lines.. How do these bolt up?
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 68
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![]() Also, anyone know what size the nut is on the end of spindle, I need to purchase the socket.
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 456
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![]() You should be able to remove the spindle nut with your fingers. It should be held on by a cotter pin and then a nut cover. Just behind that is your wheel bearing.
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You're gonna need your seatbelt |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 68
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![]() No, I've already removed the old rotor and installed a new one with nicely packed bearings and what not.
Although the nut was only finger tight when I loosened it, I'd prefer to have it torqued to the specific 25ft/lbs, backed half off, then to 10-15ft/lbs (According to the Hayes manual). Here's another pic of the braided line... |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 456
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![]() I have always just finger tightened them and it has seemed to work fine. Sorry I couldn't help with the size of the nut.
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You're gonna need your seatbelt |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 68
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![]() I suppose finger tight will have to suffice.
![]() Can anyone answer my brake line question? |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: W. Springfield, PA
Posts: 65
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![]() I will have to go look at my brakes to see exactly where the line bolts up, but...
The brake line normally bolts up using banjo bolts. A bolt that has feed lines drilled into it to allow brake fluid to pass through the bolt. The fitting you are looking at in the pic on the caliper is for bleeding the brakes. I think there is another hole on the back of the caliper where the line should bolt up. I also recall copper washers used to seal it also. Hope that helps. |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 512
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![]() I've installed braided lines on our stang. You should've received a bolt and two copper washers with our braided brake line kit. The bolt goes through the center of brake line and copper washers goes on both sides of the brake line if I remember correctly. Got ours brake upgrades from MaximuimMotorSports and everything was there including instructions.
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 68
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![]() No copper washers or banjo bolts were included, so I'll just have to buy those separately.. However, I did notice that hole on the back of the caliper, and figured it was for bleeding..
Anyways, thanks for the responses! |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: butler pa
Posts: 303
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![]() where did you get the lines from you should have gotten the copper washers and the banjo bolt should have been in the caliper if not you should be able to get one at you local parts store then when you bolt it up you sould have a copper washer on each side of the line /ie caliper then washer then line then washer then bolt head
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 68
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![]() I bought the lines from "The Mustang Shop" in Calgary, Alberta... There were three lines in a large zip-lock bag, no instructions, bolts or washers..
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: butler pa
Posts: 303
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![]() do you have the banjo bolt
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92lx wannabe saleen |
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Walker, MI, USA
Posts: 1,202
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![]() Well you need the Banjoe Bolts the stock ones might not work I cant rember I think it came with new ones tho mine I got from MM I like those guys.
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Engine: steel mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, GT-40 Intake ported Lower, No power steering, No A/C, Mac cold intake, 65MM TB, 255 Fuel pump, 24's, AFR 165 58cc, Rocker Arms 1.7with the stock Cam, 1 5/8 short headers, offRoad X-pipe Drive Train: 3.55, T-5 with a Pro 5.0 shifter 12.656@107.71MPH See It at www.T-racing.com/mustang.htm |
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#14 |
I got something to say
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,557
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![]() hey Mustang_289 are you pleased with the maximum motorsports brake kit? Is that the hawk kit that comes with the braided lines, pads and shoes? I have been thinking of using that when i need new brakes.
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91 LX Hatch 5.0 - made for the twisties 89 LX Hatchback 5.0 5spd. stolen/stripped 4/7/05 ![]() http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?3494 1987 Toyota Pickup Ricer Haters Club Member #33 Want a custom gauge cluster for your Vintage Mustang? www.jmeenterprises.com |
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#15 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 512
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![]() It is the hawk kit - I'm pleased with the kit - full instructions and all the parts including banjo bolt and washers; but I gotta tell you we don't have anything to compare it against. You see, my son and I got this 88GT in pieces that we're putting back together. We needed to work on the brakes so we invested a little extra in the MMS kit. Everything that I've read and heard is this kit provides better stopping power than stock brakes.
Over time we're thinking about converting to 5-lug and disc brakes all around - possibly with 13" in the front. |
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#16 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 68
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![]() Okay, here's a pic of the rear brake line, with ALL THE HARDWARE that was included. The bit's 'n peices were packaged in a small ziplock bag attached to the rear line, so I'm assuming it's all for that line.
Okay, so the front brake lines, no problem.. I'll just have to pick up a couple of banjo bolts and four copper washers.. No biggie. Now the rear is a complete mystery to me.. How could I possibly bolt the flexible line to the hard line with a banjo bolt? I'm assuming that there's no difference between my 4-cylinder lines and 5.0 lines, other then their position |
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#17 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: W. Springfield, PA
Posts: 65
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![]() I could be wrong. But I don't think you should need a flexible line for the rear. I think the flared hard line bolts right into the brake cylinder, unless it's been cut.
I think the banjo bolt and flex line you show would be used if you have rear disc brakes. |
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#18 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 68
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![]() I hope that's not the case, cause we cut the old line while removing the 7.5 rear-end.
I can see how it will bolt up to the hard brake lines on the axle, but that banjo bolt really throws me off. |
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#19 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 512
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![]() The braided steel lines are for the front only - the rear brakes lines are metal so there's no problems with expansion like the oem stock rubber lines - hence upgrading to steel braided lines.
If you've cut your rear lines you're going to have to bend new lines from the proportion volve to left and right brake cylendars. |
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#20 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Ontario canada
Posts: 446
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![]() thats for the rear there is a rubber line to a distrabution block obove the diff
where in calgary do you live im in hidden valley . ps the kit was probably missing a few things look at the maximun motor sport kit on there sit and see what your missing. the mustang shop sometimes resells things like that.
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89 with 331 t3'/t4 hybrids. upr Suspention worked out finnaly . 9.89 144 mph . |
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