14 lb procharger on a rebuilt block?

Dave_mustang_50 · 05-04-2003, 03:14 PM

Here`s the question, what would have to be done to a 120k stock block on a rebuild to add a blower. I would like to drop in a stroker but its not in the cards right now and a rebuild could happen soon. Bottom line is it would have to be reliable for 2 years- until i got the stroker short block. Am i nuts or can it be done cost effectively?
Thanks

BilLster · 05-05-2003, 10:12 AM

well to keep money down get a larger pulley and drop the boost on the blower and get rings and bearings freshened up.

untill you tear it down you never know what it will cost .

the diffrence between a good rebuild and a stroker is the crank.

block prep, new pistons rings bearings ,ext

so i would just freshen it up rings bearings seals .

StalkerStang · 05-12-2003, 10:51 PM

I would not go boost on a 120k motor unless u wanna being picking up your bottom end off the road,I would go with a 306
they are a cheap short block and will handle the boost alot more ,dss has one for around $1500.00 I would get what you need first then get the power adders.....

NO SLO PK · 05-13-2003, 10:45 AM

If you know your engine was well maintained, e.g., frequent oil changes, not seen detonation, not overheated, not severely raced, then you may be okay. THAT'S A BIG MAYBE. There are some things you should consider first:

1) How much oil does your motor currently consume? A quart every 2,500, or a quart every 500 miles?

2) If there isn't much oil consumption, then you may want to do a leakdown test to confirm the rings are still sealing.

3) Is the oil pressure still good?

5) 14 psi is a lot for old rings to handle.

I've never seen or heard of a high mile motor blowing up just because someone added a supercharger to it. From what I've seen ring seals get worse, to the point where blowby is excessive and there is significant power loss combined with excessive oil consumption. Assuming this happens to you, then you would have had to rebuild your motor anyway...

My LX was supercharged since 1992...finally at 130k miles, I changed the short block...didn't have to, but just figured it was time.

Dave_mustang_50 · 05-13-2003, 04:08 PM

I talked to my speed shop and they recommend a r302 block. I am planning on getting a dss 331 and then bolting on the blower. I wasnt planning on getting the upgraded block though- thats like 3k more. They say the 331 is good for 650hp. It just kills me to see it sit there in the closet. Oh well- Patience is a virtue

NO SLO PK · 05-13-2003, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dave_mustang_50
I talked to my speed shop and they recommend a r302 block.

Who's trying to sell you on an R302 block? Let me know so I can stay away from those people!!!

Dave_mustang_50 · 05-15-2003, 04:35 PM

That r302 block is an extra 2 grand. For a complete total of 4500 Bucks! wow. Its rated by dss for 850 hp though. I`m gunning for 500 - 550 rwhp. So I am just going to do the 331 and save the 2k

moosejaw · 05-20-2003, 10:54 PM

If you buy the 331 get the block o-ring option. It is cheap and it will help keep the boost in. Otherwise if you want to rebuild that stock motor.....

New bearings, plasma moly rings, low compression forged pistons, Main girdle support, large oil pan, heavy duty oil driveshaft, sfi dampner, and there is more.

If you lower the boost to 10 or less then a normal build would hold but not to your 550hp.

With the DSS motor you should still get a big oil pan, HD oil driveshaft, sfi damper, and the main girdle is included on the 331.
Remember DSS builds on used stock blocks .030 or .040 over. Seasoned = used. Nothing wrong with that. Just don't think your buying a "new" block.

Mike

05-04-2003, 03:14 PM	#1
Dave_mustang_50 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 1999 Location: New Port Richey, Florida Posts: 483	14 lb procharger on a rebuilt block? Here`s the question, what would have to be done to a 120k stock block on a rebuild to add a blower. I would like to drop in a stroker but its not in the cards right now and a rebuild could happen soon. Bottom line is it would have to be reliable for 2 years- until i got the stroker short block. Am i nuts or can it be done cost effectively? Thanks __________________ 1969 Mach 1 351C with a c6(for now) Sold 92 Rag Top GT Procharged & intercooled DSS 331 LC Holley Systemax 2 Intake, Edelbrock RPM Heads,E 303 ,blow thru air meter, race bypass, 42 pph injectors,65mm tb,1.7 rr, Mac long tube headers w/off road H pipe, Force 2 catback, TKO,Pro 5.0, K&N, Alum DS,3 core radiator, subframe connectors,3.73`s, Nitto DR`s and a Heavy Foot.

05-05-2003, 10:12 AM	#2
BilLster Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Ontario canada Posts: 446	well to keep money down get a larger pulley and drop the boost on the blower and get rings and bearings freshened up. untill you tear it down you never know what it will cost . the diffrence between a good rebuild and a stroker is the crank. block prep, new pistons rings bearings ,ext so i would just freshen it up rings bearings seals . __________________ 89 with 331 t3'/t4 hybrids. upr Suspention worked out finnaly . 9.89 144 mph .

05-12-2003, 10:51 PM	#3
StalkerStang Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Odessa, Tx Posts: 25	I would not go boost on a 120k motor unless u wanna being picking up your bottom end off the road,I would go with a 306 they are a cheap short block and will handle the boost alot more ,dss has one for around $1500.00 I would get what you need first then get the power adders..... __________________ 98 Mustang 56mm TB,msd ignition, spec clutch,steeda suspension,off road h-pipe,STALKER KIT ~~~You laughed you pointed and then you got beat compliments of the bottle behind my seat!~~~

05-13-2003, 10:45 AM	#4
NO SLO PK Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Arcadia, CA, USA Posts: 731	If you know your engine was well maintained, e.g., frequent oil changes, not seen detonation, not overheated, not severely raced, then you may be okay. THAT'S A BIG MAYBE. There are some things you should consider first: 1) How much oil does your motor currently consume? A quart every 2,500, or a quart every 500 miles? 2) If there isn't much oil consumption, then you may want to do a leakdown test to confirm the rings are still sealing. 3) Is the oil pressure still good? 5) 14 psi is a lot for old rings to handle. I've never seen or heard of a high mile motor blowing up just because someone added a supercharger to it. From what I've seen ring seals get worse, to the point where blowby is excessive and there is significant power loss combined with excessive oil consumption. Assuming this happens to you, then you would have had to rebuild your motor anyway... My LX was supercharged since 1992...finally at 130k miles, I changed the short block...didn't have to, but just figured it was time. __________________ Russ L '91 LX - 331 w/ Procharger '03 Cobra Convertible - Pullied '94 Lightning '65 Mustang Coupe Last edited by NO SLO PK; 05-13-2003 at 04:20 PM..

05-13-2003, 04:08 PM	#5
Dave_mustang_50 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 1999 Location: New Port Richey, Florida Posts: 483	I talked to my speed shop and they recommend a r302 block. I am planning on getting a dss 331 and then bolting on the blower. I wasnt planning on getting the upgraded block though- thats like 3k more. They say the 331 is good for 650hp. It just kills me to see it sit there in the closet. Oh well- Patience is a virtue __________________ 1969 Mach 1 351C with a c6(for now) Sold 92 Rag Top GT Procharged & intercooled DSS 331 LC Holley Systemax 2 Intake, Edelbrock RPM Heads,E 303 ,blow thru air meter, race bypass, 42 pph injectors,65mm tb,1.7 rr, Mac long tube headers w/off road H pipe, Force 2 catback, TKO,Pro 5.0, K&N, Alum DS,3 core radiator, subframe connectors,3.73`s, Nitto DR`s and a Heavy Foot.

05-15-2003, 04:35 PM	#7
Dave_mustang_50 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 1999 Location: New Port Richey, Florida Posts: 483	That r302 block is an extra 2 grand. For a complete total of 4500 Bucks! wow. Its rated by dss for 850 hp though. I`m gunning for 500 - 550 rwhp. So I am just going to do the 331 and save the 2k __________________ 1969 Mach 1 351C with a c6(for now) Sold 92 Rag Top GT Procharged & intercooled DSS 331 LC Holley Systemax 2 Intake, Edelbrock RPM Heads,E 303 ,blow thru air meter, race bypass, 42 pph injectors,65mm tb,1.7 rr, Mac long tube headers w/off road H pipe, Force 2 catback, TKO,Pro 5.0, K&N, Alum DS,3 core radiator, subframe connectors,3.73`s, Nitto DR`s and a Heavy Foot.

05-20-2003, 10:54 PM	#8
moosejaw Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: St.Louis,MO Posts: 274	If you buy the 331 get the block o-ring option. It is cheap and it will help keep the boost in. Otherwise if you want to rebuild that stock motor..... New bearings, plasma moly rings, low compression forged pistons, Main girdle support, large oil pan, heavy duty oil driveshaft, sfi dampner, and there is more. If you lower the boost to 10 or less then a normal build would hold but not to your 550hp. With the DSS motor you should still get a big oil pan, HD oil driveshaft, sfi damper, and the main girdle is included on the 331. Remember DSS builds on used stock blocks .030 or .040 over. Seasoned = used. Nothing wrong with that. Just don't think your buying a "new" block. Mike __________________ Live near St.Louis? Check out Mustang Muscle and Dyno in High Ridge, MO

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