ATI ProCharger

NYC1 · 06-15-2002, 09:16 PM

I was thinking about getting a PS1sc or P600b procharger and adding it to my combo. My car has 130k. Am I looking at disaster? It's still running smooth. I'll probably check out Jimmy Larocca's in NJ.

Thanks for any info.

srv1 · 06-15-2002, 09:33 PM

talk to Jimmy. my opinion, is i wouldnt throw the S/C on with that mileage reguardless how well it runs. if it was my car, i wouldnt. people have done it before without doing any damage, and then again some have had some serious problems. its a chance you take. there is alot of Supercharged freaks

on here that can point you in the right direction. good luck!

929PhoenixSquid · 06-16-2002, 01:52 AM

Who cares about your mileage. If the motor dies, you just take the blower off it and install it on a new motor.......

NYC1 · 06-16-2002, 09:39 PM

Thanks srv1.

okee dokee 929. That's EXACTLY what I'm trying to avoid...

Mustangbelle306 · 06-16-2002, 10:07 PM

Well, I think it was a good suggestion, considering probably 90% of Mustangers think its retarded to strain an aged block with a blower, and you were asking that same exact question...

Obviously 929 assumed you were knowledgable, but perhaps had money to throw around on installation

I'm sure he won't make the same mistake next time

If you're at 130K, I'd rebuild/purchase a new engine, and slap the blower on the virgin one

929PhoenixSquid · 06-16-2002, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by NYC1
okee dokee 929. That's EXACTLY what I'm trying to avoid...

Umm, I sorta assumed you were building a backup motor. Most guys build a new motor while driving on the old one, buy a blower AFTER the new motor is finished and then for FUN, they slap the blower on the old one to blow it. Once it's blown, you simply take off the blower, slap it on the new one, and you're good to go.

Course, this assumes you can do the swaps yourself or have the $$$ to do it. Otherwise, that is just a very rediculous question......

NYC1 · 06-17-2002, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 929PhoenixSquid

Course, this assumes you can do the swaps yourself or have the $$$ to do it. Otherwise, that is just a very rediculous question......

You know, I thought my question was straight forward. I don't see anything r"i"diculous about it. I simpy asked to get advice. If you don't have any, why bother responding?

Mustangbelle306 · 06-17-2002, 10:38 AM

Hmm, why is it always the infrequent members that get snappish when asking the occasional technical question?

Perhaps you and 929 had some initial misunderstanding, but he did indeed provide you valid advice (albeit not what you were looking for) as well as srv1 also answered your question. Its pretty much common knowledge (hence calling the question ridiculous) that despite how well a high mile engine runs, its not always a good idea to subject it to the added stress of forced induction. Of course, no 2 engines are alike and some are indeed stronger than others, but as a rule I think most people prefer to have a blower/turbo on a newer engine.

If you can do the installation yourself, heck why not slap the blower on the one engine, and start a project in the meantime? It will give you a chance to decide if unnaturally aspirated is the thing for you, or maybe you'd be happier with N20 or an all-motor combination. Only one way to find out

Good luck to yah!

NYC1 · 06-17-2002, 11:37 AM

The only engine is the one that's in the car. I wouldn't be doing the install either, nor do I want anything to break easily. What are common things that usually go bad with power adders added to high mileage engines? Maybe I can get it/them replaced at the time of the install. Valve job? Engine rebuild?

Thanks

929PhoenixSquid · 06-17-2002, 10:06 PM

It depends. Do you have forged or hypereutectic pistons? Check your vacuum pressure, if it's low, then don't even bother.....

NYC1 · 06-18-2002, 08:38 AM

I'll check the Vac pressure. What's a good range. I'm not sure what kind of pistons are in there.

Thanks

06-15-2002, 09:16 PM	#1
NYC1 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Maryland, USA Posts: 169	ATI ProCharger I was thinking about getting a PS1sc or P600b procharger and adding it to my combo. My car has 130k. Am I looking at disaster? It's still running smooth. I'll probably check out Jimmy Larocca's in NJ. Thanks for any info. __________________ 94GT 5spd Coupe 1/4 = 13.6@103 60ft = 2.0315 on Michelin Pilots GT 40 Intake GT 40Y Aluminum heads 1.7 rockers, BBK Cold air Fluidyne, BBK long tubes & H-Pipe 65mm TB Al Driveshaft Hurst Shifter Cobra R hood HPM Subframes Control Arms Future mods = Procharger and/or 331/347 Stroker, Turbo? Rice Haters Club Member #77 FOR SALE: Strut Tower Brace $30

06-15-2002, 09:33 PM	#2
srv1 Get down..... Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Room 103 Posts: 2,095	Supercharge, or not to Supercharge, that is the question.. talk to Jimmy. my opinion, is i wouldnt throw the S/C on with that mileage reguardless how well it runs. if it was my car, i wouldnt. people have done it before without doing any damage, and then again some have had some serious problems. its a chance you take. there is alot of Supercharged freaks on here that can point you in the right direction. good luck! __________________ Cobra brakes are on! Finally..... ------------------------------------------------

06-16-2002, 01:52 AM	#3
929PhoenixSquid Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Joosey Shore Posts: 358	Who cares about your mileage. If the motor dies, you just take the blower off it and install it on a new motor....... __________________ 1988 5.0 notch: Previously never modified!! SN95 block front and rear seats, Mac catback, BBK off-road H-pipe, Steeda castor camber plates, Steeda lowering springs, Tokico shocks/struts, Alpine/MBQuart/PPI audio mods...

06-16-2002, 09:39 PM	#4
NYC1 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Maryland, USA Posts: 169	Thanks srv1. okee dokee 929. That's EXACTLY what I'm trying to avoid... __________________ 94GT 5spd Coupe 1/4 = 13.6@103 60ft = 2.0315 on Michelin Pilots GT 40 Intake GT 40Y Aluminum heads 1.7 rockers, BBK Cold air Fluidyne, BBK long tubes & H-Pipe 65mm TB Al Driveshaft Hurst Shifter Cobra R hood HPM Subframes Control Arms Future mods = Procharger and/or 331/347 Stroker, Turbo? Rice Haters Club Member #77 FOR SALE: Strut Tower Brace $30

06-17-2002, 11:37 AM	#9
NYC1 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Maryland, USA Posts: 169	The only engine is the one that's in the car. I wouldn't be doing the install either, nor do I want anything to break easily. What are common things that usually go bad with power adders added to high mileage engines? Maybe I can get it/them replaced at the time of the install. Valve job? Engine rebuild? Thanks __________________ 94GT 5spd Coupe 1/4 = 13.6@103 60ft = 2.0315 on Michelin Pilots GT 40 Intake GT 40Y Aluminum heads 1.7 rockers, BBK Cold air Fluidyne, BBK long tubes & H-Pipe 65mm TB Al Driveshaft Hurst Shifter Cobra R hood HPM Subframes Control Arms Future mods = Procharger and/or 331/347 Stroker, Turbo? Rice Haters Club Member #77 FOR SALE: Strut Tower Brace $30

06-16-2002, 10:07 PM	#5
Mustangbelle306 Yay for Chickys Join Date: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,532	Well, I think it was a good suggestion, considering probably 90% of Mustangers think its retarded to strain an aged block with a blower, and you were asking that same exact question... Obviously 929 assumed you were knowledgable, but perhaps had money to throw around on installation I'm sure he won't make the same mistake next time If you're at 130K, I'd rebuild/purchase a new engine, and slap the blower on the virgin one

06-17-2002, 10:38 AM	#8
Mustangbelle306 Yay for Chickys Join Date: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,532	Hmm, why is it always the infrequent members that get snappish when asking the occasional technical question? Perhaps you and 929 had some initial misunderstanding, but he did indeed provide you valid advice (albeit not what you were looking for) as well as srv1 also answered your question. Its pretty much common knowledge (hence calling the question ridiculous) that despite how well a high mile engine runs, its not always a good idea to subject it to the added stress of forced induction. Of course, no 2 engines are alike and some are indeed stronger than others, but as a rule I think most people prefer to have a blower/turbo on a newer engine. If you can do the installation yourself, heck why not slap the blower on the one engine, and start a project in the meantime? It will give you a chance to decide if unnaturally aspirated is the thing for you, or maybe you'd be happier with N20 or an all-motor combination. Only one way to find out Good luck to yah!

06-17-2002, 10:06 PM	#10
929PhoenixSquid Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Joosey Shore Posts: 358	It depends. Do you have forged or hypereutectic pistons? Check your vacuum pressure, if it's low, then don't even bother..... __________________ 1988 5.0 notch: Previously never modified!! SN95 block front and rear seats, Mac catback, BBK off-road H-pipe, Steeda castor camber plates, Steeda lowering springs, Tokico shocks/struts, Alpine/MBQuart/PPI audio mods...

06-18-2002, 08:38 AM	#11
NYC1 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Maryland, USA Posts: 169	I'll check the Vac pressure. What's a good range. I'm not sure what kind of pistons are in there. Thanks __________________ 94GT 5spd Coupe 1/4 = 13.6@103 60ft = 2.0315 on Michelin Pilots GT 40 Intake GT 40Y Aluminum heads 1.7 rockers, BBK Cold air Fluidyne, BBK long tubes & H-Pipe 65mm TB Al Driveshaft Hurst Shifter Cobra R hood HPM Subframes Control Arms Future mods = Procharger and/or 331/347 Stroker, Turbo? Rice Haters Club Member #77 FOR SALE: Strut Tower Brace $30

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