Oil Pan Gasket

Elvis · 11-06-2001, 04:59 PM

I have a '67 with a 289 and a leaking oil pan gasket. I bought a rubber replacement and I'm about ready get dirty. I know I will need to remove the starter and a cross member. Are there any other things I should know before I start? Do I need to use RTV or anything on the gasket? Is this too much for a non-mechanic to tackle? Thanks. E

Rev · 11-06-2001, 05:41 PM

Elvis, you're referring to a one-piece gasket aren't you? (like a Mr. Gasket-Ultra Seal). I use RTV on the side facing the block and not too much of it. Do you really need to remove the starter motor. I don't remember having to do that. Anyway, a fairly straight forward job. Don't over tighten those little bolts. It will only bend the pan and maybe break off those little bolts if you over tighten. Good luck with the job. If it's not a one-piece gasket, then get one.

Rev

------------------
'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

diablopony · 11-06-2001, 08:08 PM

While your there, be sure to clean out the screen for your oil pump. Might also want to concider changing the pump if it is the original.

------------------
'68 convert, 289, C-4, Edelbrock Performer package, Tri-Y headers, 3.25 rear gears

Rev · 11-06-2001, 08:14 PM

Diablo, just curious as to how your car does at the track? We might be close or maybe not.

Rev

------------------
'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

Elvis · 11-06-2001, 08:23 PM

Rev, yes the gasket I bought is the one piece item. The last time I looked under there it seemed that the oil pan could not be dropped without removing the starter. Having changed the starter before, it is really no big deal. I guess the best thing is to just get in there and do it. First time for everything. E

Rev · 11-06-2001, 08:30 PM

Can't think of anything really difficult there. disconnect the battery as you'll at least need to move the cables around and maybe disconnect them from the starter, but you knew that.

Rev

------------------
'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

Gearhead999 · 11-09-2001, 08:09 PM

Drop the idler arm too. Just pull the two bolts that hold it to the apron. This will give you room to lower the steering arms.

David Fulford · 11-17-2001, 07:49 PM

I second the idler arm suggestion. Had to pull oil pan to get oil pump drive rod out.(Hey, I never claimed to be a master mechanic) There are also some pieces you can get that wrap around the edge of the oil pan acting like one big washer and prevent from over tightening. They serve the same purpouse as valve cover hold downs do. Hope I explained it right. I got them from a specialty place in my town but I'm sure they're out there somewhere else.

KULTULZ · 11-18-2001, 12:57 AM

Oil pan reinforcing rails;

E7AZ 6A674-A
E7AZ 6A674-B

You can either buy these new or find take-offs. Just be sure your retaining cap screws are long enough for the extra thickness. A stud kit from ARP or Moroso would give you added insurance on torque value/retention.

11-06-2001, 04:59 PM	#1
Elvis Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Sherman, Texas Posts: 188	Oil Pan Gasket I have a '67 with a 289 and a leaking oil pan gasket. I bought a rubber replacement and I'm about ready get dirty. I know I will need to remove the starter and a cross member. Are there any other things I should know before I start? Do I need to use RTV or anything on the gasket? Is this too much for a non-mechanic to tackle? Thanks. E

11-17-2001, 07:49 PM	#8
David Fulford Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Charlotte NC Posts: 193	I second the idler arm suggestion. Had to pull oil pan to get oil pump drive rod out.(Hey, I never claimed to be a master mechanic) There are also some pieces you can get that wrap around the edge of the oil pan acting like one big washer and prevent from over tightening. They serve the same purpouse as valve cover hold downs do. Hope I explained it right. I got them from a specialty place in my town but I'm sure they're out there somewhere else. __________________ 1969 fast back; yellow; weld wheels; 302 roller with GT-40 heads; 3:55 gears; 5spd T-5; MSD 6AL; E-303; flows; Hedman headers; Holley 600;Weiand Accelerator;1.6 rockers

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Timing Chain cover gasket change	Chris_H	Windsor Power	6	11-18-2004 08:03 AM
Gt40x heads gasket?	drtbiker	Windsor Power	6	05-14-2003 06:52 PM
2002 valve cover gasket?	ponypower	Modular Madness	1	07-26-2002 05:22 PM
Header Gasket Help Needed	Phillip Long	Windsor Power	5	05-03-2002 01:59 PM
gasket matching intake ports	matt cook	Windsor Power	3	12-07-2001 04:44 PM

11-06-2001, 05:41 PM	#2
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Elvis, you're referring to a one-piece gasket aren't you? (like a Mr. Gasket-Ultra Seal). I use RTV on the side facing the block and not too much of it. Do you really need to remove the starter motor. I don't remember having to do that. Anyway, a fairly straight forward job. Don't over tighten those little bolts. It will only bend the pan and maybe break off those little bolts if you over tighten. Good luck with the job. If it's not a one-piece gasket, then get one. Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph 1/4 mi.

11-06-2001, 08:08 PM	#3
diablopony Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Clayton, CA USA Posts: 116	While your there, be sure to clean out the screen for your oil pump. Might also want to concider changing the pump if it is the original. ------------------ '68 convert, 289, C-4, Edelbrock Performer package, Tri-Y headers, 3.25 rear gears

11-06-2001, 08:14 PM	#4
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Diablo, just curious as to how your car does at the track? We might be close or maybe not. Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph 1/4 mi.

11-06-2001, 08:23 PM	#5
Elvis Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Sherman, Texas Posts: 188	Rev, yes the gasket I bought is the one piece item. The last time I looked under there it seemed that the oil pan could not be dropped without removing the starter. Having changed the starter before, it is really no big deal. I guess the best thing is to just get in there and do it. First time for everything. E

11-06-2001, 08:30 PM	#6
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Can't think of anything really difficult there. disconnect the battery as you'll at least need to move the cables around and maybe disconnect them from the starter, but you knew that. Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph 1/4 mi.

11-09-2001, 08:09 PM	#7
Gearhead999 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Oviedo, FL Posts: 992	Drop the idler arm too. Just pull the two bolts that hold it to the apron. This will give you room to lower the steering arms.

11-18-2001, 12:57 AM	#9
KULTULZ Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: WDC/BAL Metro Posts: 17	Oil pan reinforcing rails; E7AZ 6A674-A E7AZ 6A674-B You can either buy these new or find take-offs. Just be sure your retaining cap screws are long enough for the extra thickness. A stud kit from ARP or Moroso would give you added insurance on torque value/retention.