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Old 10-17-2001, 07:57 AM   #1
Stang_ROTY
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Post Ready to replace bearings and install cam......What's a good spec??

Well, it feels good to be back here! After all the time, energy and $$ I spent on my Stang I had to take some time off. Here's the situation. Me and my Uncle are yanking the engine out on 10/27 and having the bearings replaced. What I also want to do is get a more aggressive cam that is set to match my 3500 stall speed. The cam I have now is a custom grind from Comp Cams and is a close match to the emissions legal "E" cam from FRPP. That's how I passed emissions. Now that I'm clear from emissions testing for 2 years I figure I might as well get some more power from my 393. I know there is more HP to be found in there somewhere and short of porting the heads I think the cam would give me some serious HP if designed right. I have no ability to run a roller b/c I am not interested in buying the expensive conversion kit for a 5% HP gain. So, what do you guys think would be a good spec that would provide decent driveability with awesome power potential? I'm happy with what I have now but after subscribing to MM&FF and 5.0 for a year I know that there is more power to be found with a good cam on the larger cube engines.

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Red 1993 GT
1969 351 block w/393 stroker. Edlebrock Performer heads and Performer RPM EFI, FRPP 30lb injectors & Cartech fuel system. JMS chip & MSD ignition.
Dynamic Roller Myte C4, 8 pt cage, Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, adj. upper's, 3.73's, Koni rear shocks
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Old 10-17-2001, 08:19 AM   #2
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the cam choice would also depend on how you would like your idle and possible the vacume avail for power brakes. As an example, I have a 5.0 using a 498"lift Exh, & 220"duration. It idles a bit lumpy which is fine w/me. For a larger displacement engine like yours I would go higher, say 520" by 236". This would give you noticable power but w/a lumpy idle. my 2 cents....
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Old 10-17-2001, 11:25 AM   #3
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I would actually like a lumpier idle, it sounds great and would fit with the look of the car. As far as the brakes go, I'll sacrafice it for the the extra power. It's all about respecting the streets The seat of the pants HP and torque is what I like.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ALS85GT:
[B]the cam choice would also depend on how you would like your idle and possible the vacume avail for power brakes.
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Old 10-17-2001, 12:14 PM   #4
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Hey man, how ya doin? I thought we lost you. What's the compression your running (pistons), and what size MAF do you have?

As far as the brakes, an auxilary vacuum can will help.

~Chris

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Old 10-17-2001, 01:56 PM   #5
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Most cam/perf parts retailers will listen to what you are looking for and help you choose the right cam. I would get a few opinions before deciding. But I can't help but love the sound and feel of a beefy cam in a V-8.
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Old 10-17-2001, 03:41 PM   #6
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Hey Buddy!
How the hell are ya? I've been o.k. I've been real busy with work, school, trying to find a good Winter vehicle and raising my daughter and etc. I'll never be lost, just real frustrated if I have this bearing problem again. To answer your question, I'm running 10.5/1 Compression and my MAF is 75MM. Nice to hear from you!


Quote:
Originally posted by PKRWUD:
Hey man, how ya doin? I thought we lost you. What's the compression your running (pistons), and what size MAF do you have?

As far as the brakes, an auxilary vacuum can will help.

~Chris

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Old 10-17-2001, 10:12 PM   #7
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Listen... Do you hear it? The Comp Cams #32-225-4 is calling your name.

Take care,
~Chris

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Old 10-18-2001, 06:48 AM   #8
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I can hear it She sounds real lumpy and when I punch it...oh yeah!! Do you know what the specs are??
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Old 10-18-2001, 09:34 AM   #9
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Comp Cams #32-225-4:

Magnum Hydraulic
Operating range: 2000 - 6000 rpm
Duration (@.050") 230/230
Lift: .530/.530
Lobe sep angle: 110 degrees

"Good in street machines, mild conv., headers and gears. 9:1 - 10:1 comp. Rough idle."

It's significantly bigger than the one it's replacing, but still quite drivable.

Something just occured to me... Is your block a 351C or a 351W?



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Old 10-18-2001, 12:09 PM   #10
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I have a '69 Windsor block (C casting I believe). When I get home I'll check my cam spec card and I'll get back to you with my current #'s.

Quote:
Originally posted by PKRWUD:
Comp Cams #32-225-4:

Magnum Hydraulic
Operating range: 2000 - 6000 rpm
Duration (@.050") 230/230
Lift: .530/.530
Lobe sep angle: 110 degrees

"Good in street machines, mild conv., headers and gears. 9:1 - 10:1 comp. Rough idle."

It's significantly bigger than the one it's replacing, but still quite drivable.

Something just occured to me... Is your block a 351C or a 351W?

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Old 10-18-2001, 12:50 PM   #11
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That cam is for a 351C block. Post your current specs, and I'll find you a winner.

~C

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Old 10-18-2001, 11:26 PM   #12
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Try this instead:

Comp Cams #35-330-3
2500-6500
244/244
.518/.518
110*
"Great street/stripcam. 10:1 compression, headers, intake, gears and 3000 stall. Very rough idle"

Take care,
-Chris

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Old 10-19-2001, 07:38 PM   #13
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Here's what I'm using.

Comp Cams #35-000-5
2500-5500
224/231
.508/.513
112*

Chris- How much HP can you expect to gain from a cam swap?
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Old 10-23-2001, 04:52 AM   #14
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That's a tough question. i would estimate a 25 hp increase with the cam I suggested, but more importantly, it will extend your range, giving you a wider powerband.

Take care,
-Chris

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Old 10-23-2001, 03:38 PM   #15
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I need your opinion Chris. Right now my combo is mis-matched. I have a cam that's designed for a 2500 stall speed and my converter locks at 3500. If it were your car would you get a larger can to match the torque convertor (less $$), or try to get Dynamic Racing to either replace or give me another stall convertor set at 2500 to match my current cam design (either way more $$than a cam swap)?
My engine builder and some buddies think that I should get the smaller torque convertor (for driveability purposes on the street) but I want to your opinion. I guess I need to know what a better combo would be for my Edelbrock street legal unported/unpolished heads and intake. At this point all hopes are lost for a timeslip this season as the drag strip closes this Sunday. That sucks but now I can concentrate on next year and finishing everything the right way rather than rushing. I still need to get my hood and extra spoiler painted Thanks again!
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Old 10-23-2001, 04:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
My engine builder and some buddies think that I should get the smaller torque convertor (for driveability purposes on the street) but I want to your opinion.
FYI- A smaller torque convertor has a higher stall speed. A bigger torque convertor has a lower stall speed.

If this was your daily driver and grocery getter, I would say go with a lower stall convertor, then smack you for putting so much into a daily driver. But, if this is your "play" car, your "Weekend Warrior", then I would go with the cam I suggested above. It will still be driveable on the street, but it will scream on the track. I feel that with the new cam, you will be getting the most out of the work you have already done. There's not a huge difference between the cams, just enough to feed what you've already got. It will idle a bit rougher, but so what? Just don't set any beverages on the hood.

Take care,
-Chris

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[This message has been edited by PKRWUD (edited 10-23-2001).]
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Old 10-23-2001, 07:33 PM   #17
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A smaller stall speed is what I meant, sorry. That's what I get for posting msg's while at work

That's what I needed to hear. A larger cam would help and I don't think it'll take very long to reach that 3500 stall. I took her out for a ride tonight (probably the first in over 3 weeks) and it was nice and cool. Man she's got some power...Wow. All I can say is I had an ear to ear smile that lasted way after I got out of the car. Thanks again for all the help. I can't wait for next season....have you had any experience with those dashboard analyzers? My buddy is getting one and he told me I could use it. He said they are accurate to within .2 of a second.

Also, what do you think about a "powerpipe"? I'm running that BBK 65mm Cold Air kit in the fendewell but I noticed the 70??MM "powerpipe" isn't in the fender. How do they figure that hot engine air produces power? I never understood that concept.
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