Simi Stang:
Thanks for the advice. That was really the kind of specifics that I was looking for, though, ultimately I'de like to find a 4.6 guy with a good set up that can point me towards a specific system.
OK, here is what I have learned (from here and from articles):
1 - No2 is safe if done right.
2 - Dry kits are safe, simple, and less expensive as long as you take the right precautions.
3 - Don't get carried away with using it.
4 - You need to use colder plugs. These plugs do not affect performance when not using the juice.
5 - To avoid blowing up your motor, you need to be able to shut-off your fuel if pressure drops...fuel shut-off. A larger volume fuel pump might be recomended.
6 - Timing needs to be retarded. The amount depends on how much boost. Obviously, retarding the timing will affect performance when not running ther juice. Will a custom chip do this trick? Can someone help me a little more with this area?
7 - 100 hp boost is probably the max to use to be safe and allow some margin.
I should add that I do have the C&L tru-flow pipe. I bought it cheap. Mostly, I liked the look with my other mods, but it has a spot to inject dry NO2. I am leaning towards a dry kit at this time.
I really need to get a better understanding of the whole timing issue and just how to do this before I move forward.
Thanks for the help guys!
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My Stang:
2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)
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