NOVI 2000 and stock motor
 

My son is looking hard at a NOVI2000 charger for our 88GT project car. How effective will the NOVI2000 be with speed density(upgrading to MAF), stock intake, heads, and bottom end?

You could probably still put 350-400 HP to the wheels.

Ditch the Speed density.

I would tear the motor down, get the heads surfaced and put some bad *** head gaskets on first.

You could go really low 12's maybe high 11's with that set up.

The Novi 2000 is a bad boy:cool:

how many miles on the motor? I would seriously think about a rebuild with strong internals, with better flowing heads, and intake.

about 90K on the motor - have run wet/dry compression and all 8 are in spec (can't remember not enough coffee in my brain yet) and within 5-10lbs of each other.

the numbers sound good, just make sure after the install you get a good tune. But I would def. throw some heads, a cam, and an intake to see the potential of the Novi 2000.

have you thogh abuot nitrous? alot cleaner under the hood and you use it when yuo want to. nirtous is safe if you run colder plugs and good fuel and retard timing, i have run both blower and nitruos and will stick with nitrous any day of the week, when you run nitous the power comes on instanlty where as the blower takes time to produce the gains and the novi2000 is 3 g`s
were as a kick *** nitrous system is abotu $1000 after accessories good luck whatver you do

In my opinion the Novi 2000 is the best blower out there for the money. You can run it on a stock motor in a mild setup, or build a large stroker and pulley it for 15+ psi and make over 900 horsepower. I'll be buying one for my combo this winter.

I have the little brother of the 2k, running the Novi 1k. Definately a good kit even for an entry level. Seeing 7.5psi at 4100ft elevation with stock heads/cam, and just a crank pulley off an F-150 for $15. If you have the money I would definately say go for it. For some more info, go to http://www.novipower.com Everybody there is great for questions like this. They have a forum for both the 1k and 2k systems.

Chris

Currently running NOS, you're right the initial cost out of pocket is cheaper but it gets pretty expensive running thru bottles at the track.

what does a fill up cost?

Like they say "with nitrous all you are doing is financing a blower"...

about $3.5 / lb - which equals $35 each time you fill the ole bottle with funny juice

How much nitrous do you use on a run, or how many runs does a 10 lb bottle last? Thanks

My son gets about 4-5 runs on a bottle. As you can see it'll get pretty expensive at the track running 10+ times.

I have found if you can find a welding supply store with a small bottle fill station it only cost $10.00 to fill a full N20 bottle but a speed shop charges way more. I also have filled my paint ball stuff at the welding supply shop for pennies. also if you use a bottle warmer you should get more than 3-4 run on a full bottle also use a pressure gauge.

consentrate on getting the car running strong n/a. if it were me i would take the money and investe in a good h/c/i combo. then get it to run a number then move on to forced induction.

With a good h/c/i combo and some additional work to the suspension, what do you think we could turn in the quarter with these N/A mods without NOVI?

Currently running mid 13s with these mods: LT headers, underdrive pullies, BlackMagic fan, King Cobra clutch, 3.73s, Maximum Motor Sports lower control arms, and a 100 shoot of juice. Doing the mid 13s on BFG TA Radials - slip sliddin away with this rubber.

Mid 12s would be pretty easy with a nice set of aluminum heads, strong cam, and good intake (and some better tires), maybe even high 11s or lower with a great driver and some tuning...It also depends if you just want this car to do good in a straight line...i know im sacrificing at least a half a sec in the quarter cause my car is setup for handling. Suspension can make a huge difference. Also you might try putting your car on a diet.

the suspension, me personally if you want it to hook and still drive pretty good i would put four cylinder stuff all the way around, this offers the best bang for the buck so to speak, not to mention i know of cars cutting 1.45 60's on 4 cylinder springs and shocks with 70/30's for struts. go with a good set of heads go with a decent cam(not to big) and match the intake with the h/c and mid to low 12's with a set of tires is what the combo could see. i have friend with a 3100 coupe. the car has out of the box tw heads, small cam, systemax intake, everything has been matched and with the suspension above he cuts 1.7x 60's runs 12.4x's on the motor and on a 150 shot the car goes 11.5x. it's all in getting the parts to match. putting the car on a diet is a good "free" way to gain some et/mph. just my .02 cents

I agree completely

realstreet, do you run a realstreet car or just dreaming like me?:)

I'd really love to build a purestreet or realstreet car. Those seem like they'd be the most fun/competitive classes right now in the NMRA.


Anyway, back to the topic at hand. If it were me, I would also start with suspension work. No matter how stock it is, any car will greatly improve with the right suspension. This way, you'll get the most out of the car, and it will already be done when you upgrade the drivetrain later.

Whats your overall plan for the car? Street/strip car? Pure drag machine? You've gotta set a goal and go after that.

If it were me in your situation. I would slap a new set of rings and bearings in your stock motor, give your heads and intake a mild port job, and see what you can do with that Novi. Then upgrade the h/c/i later.