simple nitrous questions
 

1)do I HAVE to change my plugs to autolite24's and gap them at .035? OR can i get away with other ones (i dont know what is in there now)?
2)AND I bought a warmer this time which will be installed with it. any thing special i should tell the guy who is going to install this for me?
3)any tips oh how to use the warmer or does it turn on and off by itself?
4)ALSO, can i buy a rocker panel at a local store to fit in the ash tray? I will have three switches now 1)fan 2)nitrous 3)warmer
I have the fan switch in the ash tray now.

Thanks

I cant speak for the nitrous install but as for the wiring, you can certainly install the switch to turn the warmer on, and another to ARM the system. I've never seen a custom switch panel specific for the mustang ashtray, but that's the best place, it's nice and low key.... and it gets covered if you want to... so as I type this I descided to do some searching.. check this out.. pretty trick install

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2421280048

I've seen a couple auctions for the same things... search ebay for "mustang ashtray" or "mustang ash tray"
-as

As far as the nitrous....run 1-2 step colder plugs then stock. Gap is good where u have it. They say 2 degrees for every 50hp. I ran 150hp on one step colder accel plugs with 10 degrees timing on a stock motor (had upgrade kit for fuel).

nitrous
 

1jimmy_d-
Are you still sticking with just the 75hp shot? If so, then your gap doesn't even matter much, being that you have that Jacobs ignition. Somewhere between .035-.045 would be fine. And yes, it would be a good idea to run one step colder plugs...which I belive is the Autolite 24s.

yeah it is the 75 shot. i will buy some and install them before the install on Tuesday. It sux reaching the plugs with headers on theses damn things! thanks,

jim

ok i installed the plugs. 20 minutes with these headers. my old stang had flowtech II headers which took 1/2 day! anyways i am getting it installed tomorrow. i plan to have the 2 new switches installed in the ash tray (if they can cut into it). i think they will fit perfect there. can the fuel pressure gauge which is inline stay there with the nitrous hooked up? do i need to worry about blowing up the bottle with the warmer at all? thanks,

jim

nitrous
 

I'm getting confused. Is your nitrous system already hooked up and working...or no? Is your fuel pressure guage hooked up to where the schrader valve is (or was) on the hard, shiny fuel lines behind the alternator? If that's where it is & you are talking about hooking up the Hobbs fuel pressure safety switch (for the nitrous) in the same place...which is how mine is set up...then yes, both the fuel psi. guage and the nitrous cut off switch can be hooked up out of that same inlet where the schrader valve is. You just need to put a T in there. Any local hardware store should have the necessary pieces for the T. And I seriously doubt you'll ever blow your bottle up because of the bottle warmer. :p The warmer has a thermostat so that the warmer switches itself on & off at predetermined temperatures. Not sure if you can change those temperature settings yourself or not?? I've never used a bottle warmer being that I'm in So.Cal. But occasionally I've wished I had one when I'm at the track on a cold winter night. Of course turning on the heat in my truck I tow my car with and putting the nitrous bottle on the floor for a while works too...kind of. :eek: :D

yeah im confused myself! i meant what you said with the cut off switch and having the gauge hooked up. i am sure (hope) the place that installs it has a T connector thing. is there a way to test the solenoids before they install them. last year it wasnt working too well, actually only worked like 4 times, but i think it was because of the stock fuel pump or something (i hope). solenoids shouldnt go bad that fast should they (less than 1 year old?) thanks

jim

nitrous setup
 

Yes, you can test the solenoids without injecting nitrous into the motor. I forgot exactly how to do it though, it's been a few years...but I have done it in the past. If you have your manual & instructions that came with the nitrous kit, it should explain how to do the solenoid test in there. You just unhook one of the wires on one of the solenoids...sorry, not sure which one of the solenoids, nor am I sure if it's the + or - wire that you disconnect. Of course, you could always just disconnect the nitrous line that goes into your throttle body (if that's the application you have?), leave the solenoids connected and test it that way. Just make sure you are in a well ventilated area. ;) Not sure if I was of any help...

thanks simi, apparently i was going to a shady mechanic guy who decided he didnt have enough time to do it today. i have to go back on monday :mad: would changing the plugsd cause my car to run any differently? it feels rougher when accelerating and when cold it takes a while to idle smoothly. did these new plugs cause that you think? thanks again!

plugs
 

No I don't think that just one step colder plugs (right?) would cause any difference in warm up or driveability...especially since you are running that Jacobs ignition. So what did you end up gapping them at? As for a rough acceleration you may want to recheck your timing. When was the last time you changed your fuel filter...cap & rotor? Sometimes it's the simple stuff.

i gapped them as close to .035 as possible. i dont know, maybe it is in my head, but it feels a little rougher when accelerating. not sure when cap and rotor were changed or fuel filter. i will email the kid who had it b4 me and ask him. thanks again!

tuning
 

No problem. Yeah, you should pop off the distributor cap and take a look at the rotor & the tabs on the cap to make sure they are corrosion free and not too dirty. You can take some very light sand paper &/or alcohol and q-tips and clean the connections. I know you probably don't want to take your plugs out again, but I talked to NOS directly a few months ago about plug gapping and they said you can easily put them at .045 without having to worry about it. Plus you have an aftermarket ignition so there is no way that the spark is somehow going to be snuffed out by the incoming nitrous. And since you are probably like me, and only use your nitrous every once in a while...you really want your combination in tip top form for when you are running on motor too...so theorectically you could be losing a very small amount of power (on motor) by having the smaller plug gap, which really is only necessary when you hit the juice. But with your 75 shot...you could easily open your gap up to .045. That may smooth out your acceleration. But the fuel filter is an easy change, and you should definitely change it. All it takes is one fill up with some dirty gas and it could get partially clogged.

looks like i will pull these babies out again and regap them at .045. where is the fuel filter on this car. my honda was under the passenger side door. is thatwhere this one is? thanks again
jim

fuel filter
 

No, the fuel filter is right by the fuel tank in the rear of the car, right between the fuel tank and where the spare tire hangs down underneath the car. Sounds like you should pick yourself up a Chiltons manual for your Mustang. It can guide you through pretty much any repair you can think of...just about. From changing your motor, rebuilding your rearend & even the little tune up stuff. Very informative. Just stay away from the Hanes manuals...I don't recommend those. They can be a bit confusing to follow. Let me know if the rough acceleration gets any better.

hey thanks for all replies simi. your right i think i will steal one (chiltons) from my public library and not return it! :p

i just looked at the plugs he had in there and they were autolite 65's. doe sthat tell me anything as far as jumping to 24's? thanks

spark plugs
 

Hey, that's what we're here for. I don't mind helping a fellow funny gas user out. Plus you have a similar combination to me, so that helps out. I'm not familiar with the Autolite 65s. But the 24s are perfect for your combo. I think that's what I used to run...but I have some NGK ones in there now, because my friend is a dealer for them.
Have a good 4th of July weekend. I know I will. I just adjusted my valves (for the first time) last weekend and washed my stang last night. It's all ready for me to take out and beat the $#@% out of this weekend. Can't wait! :D

Well I regapped them at a hair over .040 seeing as how this is as high as gapper i had! when i start the car when it is cold, it idles ok now. aceleraytion feels better too! that is weird, i didnt think gapping would have an affect like that. when i drove the car after i regapped them for 10 minutes, i pulled it in the garage to check the oil. when i pulled the dip stick out smoke came out of there a little! the temp outside was about 90 degrees and the cars temp was about 190 when i turned it off. it was about 3/4 quart low. Would this cause smoke to come out of there? and is this normal? thanks simi, this should be my last question (yeah right!) :D

hope you had a good fourth of july amd car is running good :p

dip stick
 

Thanks, the 4th was fun. Drove my car a little, but it was so darn hot outside (& I don't have A/C) that I wasn't able to drive my car near as much as I would have liked to. :mad: Glad to hear your car's acceleration got smoother. As for the smoke coming out of your dip stick...that's a new one to me! Hopefully it was because your motor was low on oil & the warm weather. But why was your motor so low on oil? Does your car normally burn oil? Maybe someone else can chime in here on the smoke coming out of the dipstick... :confused:

anderson motoersports sell a panel with 3 switchs and a momentery switch for purge, the panel slips right into the ash tray hole, after removing the ash tray. i have one looks nice to

well i have it installed and it looks like the hobbs switch is broken after only being used like 10 times! i bypassed the switch by screwing both wires to one terminal:( i tried it after and it worked! i think nos should send me a new one for free. i bought this last summer and it worked barely at all! how much are they if they wont give me one for free? seems to pick up pretty good, NOT as good as my other mustang though. i think becaseu this car has a lot more power than my other one did, but this gives a little push towards the bacl of the seat :D

AS far as that poopping before, it is stil there only when the car is cold and accelerating harder than a smooth increase. when the car gets up to operating temp, the popping stops! ANY ideas?

PS I kept the timing at 12 for now, it seems to work with no problem. take care!

jim

hobbs switch
 

How do you know the Hobbs switch is broken? Do not use your nitrous system without that switch properly hooked up! Seriously, you could ruin your motor. When I was had the stock 5.0 under my hood...& I was young and dumb...I was having trouble getting my nitrous system to work properly. It would work for a second then shut off, or sputter. So I stupidly unhooked the Hobbs safety switch. I went to the track a few weeks later and began melting spark plug tips! I mis shifted once with the nitrous on and blew a 6ft. flame out of one of my tailpipes! Fast & the Furious style...no joke! :p You can get a new switch at your local speed shop. Who installed this system for you? Or did you? If you had it installed by someone that knew anything about dry nitrous systems on fuel injected cars they should have known how important the Hobbs switch is and that it must be connected and working properly to assure the safety of your motor. Did you say there is a larger than stock fuel pump in that car? That's strange though because even the stock fuel pump flows enough volume & pressure so that the system should work fine. That's the key to a safe nitrous system...making sure that your fuel system flows enough volume to hold the boosted fuel pressure up to around 80+psi. for an entire 1/4 mile run. When I had a 100hp shot of nitrous my 155lph intank pump was sufficient. But when I stepped up to the 150hp shot...that's when the Hobbs switch began cutting off the nitrous flow because I didn't have enough fuel volume. So now I run a MSD inline pump that flows about 200gph (I think??...it's been a while). I still don't understand why your new Mustang with all the mods it has on it doesn't feel as fast as your old stang?! Or did you mean just when using the nitrous on the 2 cars? Did you even use the nitrous system on the other one? Sorry for all the questions. Just trying to get a feel for what exactly is going on here. Give me some more details and we'll figure this bug out. About the popping...did you ever change your fuel filter?

i went to a shop who installed it. i am thinking it is the switch because it tested fine when he unhooked the line to the TB and the car was off. when i bypassed the switch that is the only time it worked. is there a way to test to see if this thing is working any other way. i have a 155lph fuel pump and a gague hooked up under the car. the gague never drops to 0 though, should it? (i mean after the car is off?) it says it idles at 38 psi and when i give it gas, it goes to 35. i think the gauge may be broken. do these numbers sound right?

i actually just rehooked the lines to the hobbs switch and tested it again. i may be going crazy but i think it worked in 2nd gear but couldnt tell when i shifted it into 3rd. in 2nd i punched it waited to go above 3 grand , then triggered the arming switch. it seemed to pep up a little then. i tried the sam ein third and couldnt feel a jump when i hit it, (which i think i should). i think i am just going crazy.

can i test the hobbs switch by starting the car and unhooking the line to the TB. then giving it full gas to see if it sprays?
about the 2 mustangs, this car is a LOT faster , i was talking about when hitting nitrous only! MAN, I should just go to the track and try it without a couple runs, then with it. :confused:

oh yeah i never changed the filter, the guy before me changed it about 7 thousand miles ago.

oh boy :mad: i come home tonight after being gone for about 5 hours and hear a hissing noise coming from under the hood. i pop the hood and notice that nitrous is leaking from the line that comes from the bottle to the solenoid!!! the whole solenoid is covered with ice and probably lost all my f-n nitrous. i tried to tighten it up to see if it would help, but it didnt. it must be coming from the connection that is directly touching the solenoid. maybe it needs to be tightened some or it needs some more sealent crap on there. what a pain in the ***. i am going to bring it back to the guy again tomorrow and see what this *&%$ has to say:confused:

nitrous setup
 

Do you have the manual that came with the nitrous kit? If so, that should explain how to properly test the system. However...you could do it the way you said with the nitrous line removed from the throttle body. But then you'll have a big hole in your incoming air tube that would cause a big vacuum leak. Not sure if that would matter or not really? It could possibly affect the way the computer adjusts the timing & fuel...but don't quote me on that. A new Hobbs switch is cheap though. And you should be able to buy one from your local speed shop, or from the place that installed the system. Your 155lph pump should be sufficient for your 75 shot. Are you sure you have the 75hp shot nitrous jetting in there, and not possibly bigger jetting? Just a thought. But even with the 75hp shot you really should know if & when it is working. I mean...it's frickin nitrous! If your system is working properly...then you should definitely know when it kicks in. And you really shouldn't be using the nitrous under 2500rpms...3000 is even better. Your timing at 12 sounds fine. although it wouldn't hurt to put it at 10 just to be safe. You can always pull your plugs right after a nitrous run and try to get a feel for how the nitrous & fuel is burning in them there cylinders. I would seriously recommend changing your fuel filter. All it takes is one dirty tank of gas to clog that thing up. Even if the guy did change it just 7,000 miles ago...you should change it again. Just another thing to eliminate as the problem, you know.
As for the nitrous leaking out now, I'd seriously think about taking it somewhere else to have your system checked out. But being that you already paid this other shop I'm sure...you'll probably want to go back there first and demand that they get this thing running correctly. A nitrous system is fairly easy to install. I can't belive yours is leaking. I hope this mechanic knows that he should be using liquid teflon on all the nitrous connections and not teflon tape. That crap can clog your solenoids and then you'll have to get them rebuilt. Is this system new? If not, then maybe you do need to have your solenoids checked for dirt and gunk and get them rebuilt. It's not that expensive. Sorry this is so long. Try to answer my questions about the manual and whether or not this system is new. don't worry...we'll get this thing figured out. ;)

hey simi! I do have the manual for the kit and the kit was in my other car, which worked only a few times. i changed the fuel filter yesterday but havent tried it out yet. i am not sure how much nitrous is left after it leaking out that other night. i ended up just tightening up the actual bolt that is on the solenoid. the kit was pretty much already assembled from being in my other car. he did use the appropriate teflon as well. i hope with me tightening it up that things may work. i am not sure if my fuel pressure gauge under the hood is working or not. it is at 37 when at idle and when given more gas, it drops down a little then goes back to 37. after shutting the car off it goes down to 15 after a long while, but never 0, (should it?) I am going to go tonight to a guy who has a fuel pressure gauge i can hook up to the schrader vavle and see what the pressure is for sure. I tried adjusting the fuel pressure through the FPR by BBK, but that didnt work ou to well. When i went to loosen the nut to adjust the allen wrench screw, it would turn both at the same time! PLus it didnt seem to adjust the fuel pressure at all according to the gauge. so now i may have really screwed up the pressure which is why i will take it tonight hopefully to see what it is idling at for sure. What should the pressure be, 40 at idle? and 80 with nitrous? If I have enough pressure and it isnt working still, i would say it is the hobbs switch. everything wlse seems to be working fine. now i may have to fill up the bottle again to be sure there is enough in there!!! Thanks simi, take care,

jim

oh yeah, if the solenoids are gunked up, would it spray only a little nitrous in there, or none at all?

nitrous
 

Your fuel pressure should be at around 38psi. with the vacuum tube attached the the FPR. With the vac. tube disconnected I believe it's more like 42 or 43psi. So it sounded like yours "was" set correctly before you messed with it. Yes, it's normal for the fuel pressure to drop down a few psi. when you give the motor some throttle. As for setting the adjustable FPR...you have to use both a wrench (or socket) and an allen wrench. The nut locks the allen bolt in place. So you crack the nut loose with a rachet & socket, or wrench...then use an allen wrench to adjust the fuel psi. Then lock it down by tightening the nut, but keep an eye on the guage to make sure the proper setting stays where it should be. It's really pretty easy. But since you messed around with it now, it's probably a good idea that you are using your buddy's fuel pressure guage to properly set it. Did you say that yours is under you car?? If so, that is a strange place to have it. Mine is hooked up to my Schrader valve, like I mentioned before (I think?) with a T connector and the Hobbs switch on the other side of the T.
As far as the solenoids still functioning if they are gunked up...that's a tough call really, because you don't really know how bad they are...if they are even dirty at all. But when mine were jammed up with teflon tape, the system still worked some of the time. But the power seemed to be down and the system didn't work consistently. Good luck Jim. Keep me posted.

Shad-

Man, I must have just missed this post before i left. thats why i posted that other one. damn- Well after going to my mechanic (not the guy who installed it this time; a guy who does work for me on the side) I believe we figured out what the problem was. I arrived at his house at 9:30 and left at 1:00 in the morning. It turns ou that one of the solenoids wasnt working and the fpr needed adjusting. He disassembled the one bad solenoid and he thought it may have been caught up or something, then reassembled it. It worked fine after that. He also saw that there wasnt continuity with the hobbs switch. He adjusted the thing to where we saw continuity and then that worked. (this may not make any sense as it really didnt to me either last night:p ). anyways, we set the fuel pressure at 44 to make sure there was enough fuel, if i need to i can back it off to your recommended 38. I drove it home last night and it seemed to work :p I gave my mechanic 40 bucks which i think is cheap for the aggrevation that I went through (plus he said he only wanted 20 bucks). So i think I will keep the fuel pressure at 44 for the time being UNLESS you think i should drop it to 38 for sure ;)

the gauge IS located on the schrader valve as well. I must have meant under the hood, not car.

Thanks for all your help SImi, I really appreciate it:) hopefully this will be the last post from me about this topic. If you could answer my LASt question (haha) about that fuel poressure, that would be great. Take care,
***** I actually just went and changed the pressure so it runs at 39-40 psi. I figured you would say to lower it anyways*******

Thanks again,

Jim

With N2O too much fuel is as bad as not enough fuel....both can damge pistons. I would suggest going back to the reccomended pressure and see how the plugs read, and go from there.

fuel pressure
 

Glad you pinpointed the problem Jim. Sounds like that was it. As for the fuel pressure, definitely leave it at stock...even with a motor that sucks in more air & fuel then a stock 5.0...you still don't need to raise the fuel pressure above the stock setting. Your computer already does that for you when necessary. And the nitrous kit you are using is set up to work off of the stock fuel pressure setting...which, as you already know...it then boosts it up to around 80psi. to compensate for the nitrous. Glad to have helped you out. Let us know how the nitrous is working for you now...or some new track times when you get around to going. Take care.

Shad-