simple nitrous questions

[1jimmy__d]

1)do I HAVE to change my plugs to autolite24's and gap them at .035? OR can i get away with other ones (i dont know what is in there now)?
2)AND I bought a warmer this time which will be installed with it. any thing special i should tell the guy who is going to install this for me?
3)any tips oh how to use the warmer or does it turn on and off by itself?
4)ALSO, can i buy a rocker panel at a local store to fit in the ash tray? I will have three switches now 1)fan 2)nitrous 3)warmer
I have the fan switch in the ash tray now.

Thanks

[ChunkFunky]

I cant speak for the nitrous install but as for the wiring, you can certainly install the switch to turn the warmer on, and another to ARM the system. I've never seen a custom switch panel specific for the mustang ashtray, but that's the best place, it's nice and low key.... and it gets covered if you want to... so as I type this I descided to do some searching.. check this out.. pretty trick install

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=2421280 048

I've seen a couple auctions for the same things... search ebay for "mustang ashtray" or "mustang ash tray"
-as

[Roket]

As far as the nitrous....run 1-2 step colder plugs then stock. Gap is good where u have it. They say 2 degrees for every 50hp. I ran 150hp on one step colder accel plugs with 10 degrees timing on a stock motor (had upgrade kit for fuel).

[Simi Stang]

1jimmy_d-
Are you still sticking with just the 75hp shot? If so, then your gap doesn't even matter much, being that you have that Jacobs ignition. Somewhere between .035-.045 would be fine. And yes, it would be a good idea to run one step colder plugs...which I belive is the Autolite 24s.

[1jimmy__d]

yeah it is the 75 shot. i will buy some and install them before the install on Tuesday. It sux reaching the plugs with headers on theses damn things! thanks,

jim

[1jimmy__d]

ok i installed the plugs. 20 minutes with these headers. my old stang had flowtech II headers which took 1/2 day! anyways i am getting it installed tomorrow. i plan to have the 2 new switches installed in the ash tray (if they can cut into it). i think they will fit perfect there. can the fuel pressure gauge which is inline stay there with the nitrous hooked up? do i need to worry about blowing up the bottle with the warmer at all? thanks,

jim

[Simi Stang]

Originally posted by 1jimmy__d
can the fuel pressure gauge which is inline stay there with the nitrous hooked up? do i need to worry about blowing up the bottle with the warmer at all? thanks,
jim

I'm getting confused. Is your nitrous system already hooked up and working...or no? Is your fuel pressure guage hooked up to where the schrader valve is (or was) on the hard, shiny fuel lines behind the alternator? If that's where it is & you are talking about hooking up the Hobbs fuel pressure safety switch (for the nitrous) in the same place...which is how mine is set up...then yes, both the fuel psi. guage and the nitrous cut off switch can be hooked up out of that same inlet where the schrader valve is. You just need to put a T in there. Any local hardware store should have the necessary pieces for the T. And I seriously doubt you'll ever blow your bottle up because of the bottle warmer. The warmer has a thermostat so that the warmer switches itself on & off at predetermined temperatures. Not sure if you can change those temperature settings yourself or not?? I've never used a bottle warmer being that I'm in So.Cal. But occasionally I've wished I had one when I'm at the track on a cold winter night. Of course turning on the heat in my truck I tow my car with and putting the nitrous bottle on the floor for a while works too...kind of.

[1jimmy__d]

yeah im confused myself! i meant what you said with the cut off switch and having the gauge hooked up. i am sure (hope) the place that installs it has a T connector thing. is there a way to test the solenoids before they install them. last year it wasnt working too well, actually only worked like 4 times, but i think it was because of the stock fuel pump or something (i hope). solenoids shouldnt go bad that fast should they (less than 1 year old?) thanks

jim

[Simi Stang]

Yes, you can test the solenoids without injecting nitrous into the motor. I forgot exactly how to do it though, it's been a few years...but I have done it in the past. If you have your manual & instructions that came with the nitrous kit, it should explain how to do the solenoid test in there. You just unhook one of the wires on one of the solenoids...sorry, not sure which one of the solenoids, nor am I sure if it's the + or - wire that you disconnect. Of course, you could always just disconnect the nitrous line that goes into your throttle body (if that's the application you have?), leave the solenoids connected and test it that way. Just make sure you are in a well ventilated area. Not sure if I was of any help...

[1jimmy__d]

thanks simi, apparently i was going to a shady mechanic guy who decided he didnt have enough time to do it today. i have to go back on monday would changing the plugsd cause my car to run any differently? it feels rougher when accelerating and when cold it takes a while to idle smoothly. did these new plugs cause that you think? thanks again!

[Simi Stang]

Originally posted by 1jimmy__d
thanks simi, apparently i was going to a shady mechanic guy who decided he didnt have enough time to do it today. i have to go back on monday would changing the plugsd cause my car to run any differently? it feels rougher when accelerating and when cold it takes a while to idle smoothly. did these new plugs cause that you think? thanks again!

No I don't think that just one step colder plugs (right?) would cause any difference in warm up or driveability...especially since you are running that Jacobs ignition. So what did you end up gapping them at? As for a rough acceleration you may want to recheck your timing. When was the last time you changed your fuel filter...cap & rotor? Sometimes it's the simple stuff.

[1jimmy__d]

i gapped them as close to .035 as possible. i dont know, maybe it is in my head, but it feels a little rougher when accelerating. not sure when cap and rotor were changed or fuel filter. i will email the kid who had it b4 me and ask him. thanks again!

[Simi Stang]

No problem. Yeah, you should pop off the distributor cap and take a look at the rotor & the tabs on the cap to make sure they are corrosion free and not too dirty. You can take some very light sand paper &/or alcohol and q-tips and clean the connections. I know you probably don't want to take your plugs out again, but I talked to NOS directly a few months ago about plug gapping and they said you can easily put them at .045 without having to worry about it. Plus you have an aftermarket ignition so there is no way that the spark is somehow going to be snuffed out by the incoming nitrous. And since you are probably like me, and only use your nitrous every once in a while...you really want your combination in tip top form for when you are running on motor too...so theorectically you could be losing a very small amount of power (on motor) by having the smaller plug gap, which really is only necessary when you hit the juice. But with your 75 shot...you could easily open your gap up to .045. That may smooth out your acceleration. But the fuel filter is an easy change, and you should definitely change it. All it takes is one fill up with some dirty gas and it could get partially clogged.

[1jimmy__d]

looks like i will pull these babies out again and regap them at .045. where is the fuel filter on this car. my honda was under the passenger side door. is thatwhere this one is? thanks again
jim

[Simi Stang]

No, the fuel filter is right by the fuel tank in the rear of the car, right between the fuel tank and where the spare tire hangs down underneath the car. Sounds like you should pick yourself up a Chiltons manual for your Mustang. It can guide you through pretty much any repair you can think of...just about. From changing your motor, rebuilding your rearend & even the little tune up stuff. Very informative. Just stay away from the Hanes manuals...I don't recommend those. They can be a bit confusing to follow. Let me know if the rough acceleration gets any better.