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Old 04-24-2003, 09:37 PM   #2
Frankenstang65
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 79
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hey, I feel your frustration on both the shop damaging the car and getting the mouldings off, as I have unfortunatley dealt with both.

Anyways, it is really tough to describe the action of using the removal tool... but I'll try.

Basically, pull up on the mouldings as high as you can comfortably without bending them. This should give you plenty of space to get the tool in, and if your lucky, you may even be able to see exactly where the clips are. Once you have located them, slide the sharp end of the tool along the bottom of the moulding untill it contacts the clip and stops. At that point, make sure the very point of the tool is wedged between the moulding and the clip. You should be able to sense this because there will be a slight give as it wedges into the gap. Now that you are that far, all you need to do is pivot the handle clockwise (if you are attacking from the right side of the clip) or counter clockwise (if working from the left side). The point of the tool will be pivoting towards you, and if you are in the right spot you should be able to feel the moulding lift up slightly from the glass under tension just before it is about to release. It may help to grab onto the moulding with one hand and wiggle it a little at this point, to help it get completely free.

You should feel that there is tension on the tool when you pivot (about an inch of travel or so), but you should also be able to feel some give. In essence, this causes the pointed part of the tool to put pressure on the clip and this allows it to unhook from the rolled edge on the moulding. All the action is parallel with the glass (so no need to pull up on it other than to get the tool in) and on the side of the moulding furthest from the painted surface. If you do it this way and take your time, there really should be little risk as far as damaging the finish. That really only happens when people don't understand how the clip works, or they use the wrong tools (screwdirvers, putty knives. etc...lol).

Hopefully that makes sense...lol..good luck with it! It reallys isn't all that bad once you get the first couple unhooked.
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1965 Coupe: 351W, comp cam, Aluminum Systemax II heads (2.02/1.60), 1.7 Cobra full roller rockers, Edelbrock intake, Holley 650 double pumper, Mallory Unilite, MSD-6AL, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD heli-core plug wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" exhaust (GT style) w/ 40 series delta flows, 69 C4 w/ shift kit, shelby traction bars, 3.55:1 rear

Daily Driver:
1989 GT- 5spd, K&N (no silencer), Shorty Headers, King Cobra Clutch, Flowmaster Force II Cat-back
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