Windshield Molding Clip Removal

Kisner · 04-22-2003, 11:18 PM

Can anyone give me some tips on how to remove the molding around the front and rear glass on my 68 Mustang?

I finished restoring the car last winter and installed the front and rear glass with all new gaskets, molding clips, and gobs of sealant. I knew I wouldn't water test them until this spring due to the cold, and was so confident they couldn't possibly leak, I went ahead and snapped on all the molding.

Well, just like my luck runs they both slightly leak and need to add some more sealant. Since I wasn't sure how to remove the molding from the clips and not wanting to damage the paint, I thought I was being smart and took to what I thought was a reputable nationwide company that specializes in glass removal and installation - "Dixie Glass." To make an already long story short, they chipped the hell out of the paint around the rear glass, gave up because they didn't want to do any more damage, then backed my show-quality, wet-sanded, buffed out candayapple red paint job right out the shop door and along side a sheet of glass that took off a massive amount of paint on the passenger side (closest I ever came to going to jail for manslaughter). They paid for me for the damage but it didn't help.

I have now vowed to do all repair work myself no matter what and nobody will touch it again. So back to my question - I bought the molding clip tool but can't figure out how to get it in under the molding to somehow spring the clips to release the molding. It appears the tool will have to go in under the molding but to get down under the clip looks like you'd have to bend the molding back quite a bit. Not sure if it will go back to original shape or not if I do that. Any help would be greatly appreciated. P.S. for anyone thinking of taking their vehicles to "Dixie Glass" for any kind of work - forget it - they're idiots - at least the ones in Ocean Springs, Mississippi.

Frankenstang65 · 04-24-2003, 09:37 PM

hey, I feel your frustration on both the shop damaging the car and getting the mouldings off, as I have unfortunatley dealt with both.

Anyways, it is really tough to describe the action of using the removal tool... but I'll try.

Basically, pull up on the mouldings as high as you can comfortably without bending them. This should give you plenty of space to get the tool in, and if your lucky, you may even be able to see exactly where the clips are. Once you have located them, slide the sharp end of the tool along the bottom of the moulding untill it contacts the clip and stops. At that point, make sure the very point of the tool is wedged between the moulding and the clip. You should be able to sense this because there will be a slight give as it wedges into the gap. Now that you are that far, all you need to do is pivot the handle clockwise (if you are attacking from the right side of the clip) or counter clockwise (if working from the left side). The point of the tool will be pivoting towards you, and if you are in the right spot you should be able to feel the moulding lift up slightly from the glass under tension just before it is about to release. It may help to grab onto the moulding with one hand and wiggle it a little at this point, to help it get completely free.

You should feel that there is tension on the tool when you pivot (about an inch of travel or so), but you should also be able to feel some give. In essence, this causes the pointed part of the tool to put pressure on the clip and this allows it to unhook from the rolled edge on the moulding. All the action is parallel with the glass (so no need to pull up on it other than to get the tool in) and on the side of the moulding furthest from the painted surface. If you do it this way and take your time, there really should be little risk as far as damaging the finish. That really only happens when people don't understand how the clip works, or they use the wrong tools (screwdirvers, putty knives. etc...lol).

Hopefully that makes sense...lol..good luck with it! It reallys isn't all that bad once you get the first couple unhooked.

Kisner · 04-25-2003, 08:02 AM

Thanks for the advice. Made my first serious attempt to get them off yesterday and struck out. I am starting, however, with the hardest one - the one at the bottom of the back glass. I slipped it under the molding but can't seem to get the tool under the clip. It seems the clips are too deep and I can't bend the molding back far enough to get it down there. I do think all the other pieces (front and rear) should be easier but the critical one I have to get off and re-seal is the bottom back. I know there's some flex in the moldings but it seems I'm having to bend back too far and still can't get under the notch in the clip. Maybe my new windshield gaskets are thicker than the original? Will try again this weekend.

Dark Knight · 04-25-2003, 01:08 PM

I haven't been able to get the bottom one off my 68 either...the rest weren't to bad... but that one sucks..

Rev · 04-25-2003, 03:17 PM

I can't remember exactly how I did get it off, but it was before the paint job. It is somewhat of a b-i-t-c-h though , even with the correct tool. If given the choice, I would sacrifice the molding and then put repro back on, rather than mess up the paint. I say that because I did chip the paint on removal/replacement just like the Dixie Glass folks. I did do that myself though, so I can't whine.

Rev

Kisner · 04-27-2003, 10:12 AM

Tried once again and just can't get it off. Called another so-called reputable glass company and they're coming to my house Monday to remove for me. If they can get off with a minor chip here and there that i can fix, great. If they do serious damage to the paint job, you'll know because I won't be responding back to this message board - I'll be in jail awaiting trial. Wish me luck.

Kisner · 04-29-2003, 10:55 AM

Update - contacted another glass company to remove the windshield moldings for me. Individual came by yesterday and had lots of experience removing the older Mustang moldings. He removed them all with no damage to the paint or anything. Front windshield he had all removed within 10 minutes and top back took about 2 minutes. However, the bottom one at the back (the one I had started with and couldn't get one clip undone) took him about 30 minutes. Was a hell of a task even for this seasoned professional. I could have never done it. Advice - don't attempt it unless you have lots of experience and #2 - don't ever snap on the moldings "without" first water testing the windshields. I learned my lesson the hard way.

Frankenstang65 · 04-30-2003, 04:10 PM

Good to hear they were finally removed, and this time with no damage. Wow, I dunno my car must like me or something cause I've had both the front and back sets of mouldings off twice now, and probably spent no more than hour total (hopefully won't be doing it again for while).

good deal though, glad it worked out

04-22-2003, 11:18 PM	#1
Kisner Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 290	Windshield Molding Clip Removal Can anyone give me some tips on how to remove the molding around the front and rear glass on my 68 Mustang? I finished restoring the car last winter and installed the front and rear glass with all new gaskets, molding clips, and gobs of sealant. I knew I wouldn't water test them until this spring due to the cold, and was so confident they couldn't possibly leak, I went ahead and snapped on all the molding. Well, just like my luck runs they both slightly leak and need to add some more sealant. Since I wasn't sure how to remove the molding from the clips and not wanting to damage the paint, I thought I was being smart and took to what I thought was a reputable nationwide company that specializes in glass removal and installation - "Dixie Glass." To make an already long story short, they chipped the hell out of the paint around the rear glass, gave up because they didn't want to do any more damage, then backed my show-quality, wet-sanded, buffed out candayapple red paint job right out the shop door and along side a sheet of glass that took off a massive amount of paint on the passenger side (closest I ever came to going to jail for manslaughter). They paid for me for the damage but it didn't help. I have now vowed to do all repair work myself no matter what and nobody will touch it again. So back to my question - I bought the molding clip tool but can't figure out how to get it in under the molding to somehow spring the clips to release the molding. It appears the tool will have to go in under the molding but to get down under the clip looks like you'd have to bend the molding back quite a bit. Not sure if it will go back to original shape or not if I do that. Any help would be greatly appreciated. P.S. for anyone thinking of taking their vehicles to "Dixie Glass" for any kind of work - forget it - they're idiots - at least the ones in Ocean Springs, Mississippi.

04-25-2003, 01:08 PM	#4
Dark Knight Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Az Posts: 854	I haven't been able to get the bottom one off my 68 either...the rest weren't to bad... but that one sucks.. __________________ 84 convt,roller 302,AFR's, performer 3.55's, underdrives BBK shorties stock cam, 1.7's 13.58@102.84 and a '68 stang .. project 8 sec street car... 557 big block + N20 :-) http://members.cox.net/darkknight302/68nwrear.jpg

04-25-2003, 03:17 PM	#5
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Molding? I can't remember exactly how I did get it off, but it was before the paint job. It is somewhat of a b-i-t-c-h though , even with the correct tool. If given the choice, I would sacrifice the molding and then put repro back on, rather than mess up the paint. I say that because I did chip the paint on removal/replacement just like the Dixie Glass folks. I did do that myself though, so I can't whine. Rev __________________ '66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe

04-30-2003, 04:10 PM	#8
Frankenstang65 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 79	Good to hear they were finally removed, and this time with no damage. Wow, I dunno my car must like me or something cause I've had both the front and back sets of mouldings off twice now, and probably spent no more than hour total (hopefully won't be doing it again for while). good deal though, glad it worked out __________________ 1965 Coupe: 351W, comp cam, Aluminum Systemax II heads (2.02/1.60), 1.7 Cobra full roller rockers, Edelbrock intake, Holley 650 double pumper, Mallory Unilite, MSD-6AL, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD heli-core plug wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" exhaust (GT style) w/ 40 series delta flows, 69 C4 w/ shift kit, shelby traction bars, 3.55:1 rear Daily Driver: 1989 GT- 5spd, K&N (no silencer), Shorty Headers, King Cobra Clutch, Flowmaster Force II Cat-back

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04-24-2003, 09:37 PM	#2
Frankenstang65 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 79	hey, I feel your frustration on both the shop damaging the car and getting the mouldings off, as I have unfortunatley dealt with both. Anyways, it is really tough to describe the action of using the removal tool... but I'll try. Basically, pull up on the mouldings as high as you can comfortably without bending them. This should give you plenty of space to get the tool in, and if your lucky, you may even be able to see exactly where the clips are. Once you have located them, slide the sharp end of the tool along the bottom of the moulding untill it contacts the clip and stops. At that point, make sure the very point of the tool is wedged between the moulding and the clip. You should be able to sense this because there will be a slight give as it wedges into the gap. Now that you are that far, all you need to do is pivot the handle clockwise (if you are attacking from the right side of the clip) or counter clockwise (if working from the left side). The point of the tool will be pivoting towards you, and if you are in the right spot you should be able to feel the moulding lift up slightly from the glass under tension just before it is about to release. It may help to grab onto the moulding with one hand and wiggle it a little at this point, to help it get completely free. You should feel that there is tension on the tool when you pivot (about an inch of travel or so), but you should also be able to feel some give. In essence, this causes the pointed part of the tool to put pressure on the clip and this allows it to unhook from the rolled edge on the moulding. All the action is parallel with the glass (so no need to pull up on it other than to get the tool in) and on the side of the moulding furthest from the painted surface. If you do it this way and take your time, there really should be little risk as far as damaging the finish. That really only happens when people don't understand how the clip works, or they use the wrong tools (screwdirvers, putty knives. etc...lol). Hopefully that makes sense...lol..good luck with it! It reallys isn't all that bad once you get the first couple unhooked. __________________ 1965 Coupe: 351W, comp cam, Aluminum Systemax II heads (2.02/1.60), 1.7 Cobra full roller rockers, Edelbrock intake, Holley 650 double pumper, Mallory Unilite, MSD-6AL, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD heli-core plug wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" exhaust (GT style) w/ 40 series delta flows, 69 C4 w/ shift kit, shelby traction bars, 3.55:1 rear Daily Driver: 1989 GT- 5spd, K&N (no silencer), Shorty Headers, King Cobra Clutch, Flowmaster Force II Cat-back

04-25-2003, 08:02 AM	#3
Kisner Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 290	Thanks for the advice. Made my first serious attempt to get them off yesterday and struck out. I am starting, however, with the hardest one - the one at the bottom of the back glass. I slipped it under the molding but can't seem to get the tool under the clip. It seems the clips are too deep and I can't bend the molding back far enough to get it down there. I do think all the other pieces (front and rear) should be easier but the critical one I have to get off and re-seal is the bottom back. I know there's some flex in the moldings but it seems I'm having to bend back too far and still can't get under the notch in the clip. Maybe my new windshield gaskets are thicker than the original? Will try again this weekend.

04-27-2003, 10:12 AM	#6
Kisner Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 290	Tried once again and just can't get it off. Called another so-called reputable glass company and they're coming to my house Monday to remove for me. If they can get off with a minor chip here and there that i can fix, great. If they do serious damage to the paint job, you'll know because I won't be responding back to this message board - I'll be in jail awaiting trial. Wish me luck.

04-29-2003, 10:55 AM	#7
Kisner Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 290	Update - contacted another glass company to remove the windshield moldings for me. Individual came by yesterday and had lots of experience removing the older Mustang moldings. He removed them all with no damage to the paint or anything. Front windshield he had all removed within 10 minutes and top back took about 2 minutes. However, the bottom one at the back (the one I had started with and couldn't get one clip undone) took him about 30 minutes. Was a hell of a task even for this seasoned professional. I could have never done it. Advice - don't attempt it unless you have lots of experience and #2 - don't ever snap on the moldings "without" first water testing the windshields. I learned my lesson the hard way.