A path to follow (long)

Stefan · 07-24-2000, 09:32 AM

Damn, how do you guys learn all this S**T?
Thanks for the info, there is a logical pattern there (just what I wanted). I want to avoid just buying bolt ons that brag about horsepower and go for the combo that works from all the separate pieces. Ballpark figures here, what is a rough cost (all parts and labor figured) for the 99-2000 heads and intake swap? This seems like a logical step as they are a direct bolt on. What can be done for just pure acceleration? I think I want more than that but I'm just curious.

Thanks for the thought that went into your response Cravnpup. Any others want to pipe in?

I'm still on a budget, but open to all possibilities.

Stefan

------------------
66 Standard coupe
200 inline 6 - Pertronix ignition, Flamethrower Coil, K&N, Clifford Perf. 6 into 2 headers, Holley carb, three row radiator

96 GT Convertible
Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, B&M Ripper
K&N, removed air silencer, Tokico non-adjustable struts/ shocks (more to come)
Next up: 3:73's and side exhaust
www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?258

Stefan · 07-24-2000, 09:39 AM

That was wierd, my post ended up at the bottom of the list after I responded to Cravnpup's input. Just wanted to bring it to the top again, so nobody missed it.

Stefan

------------------
66 Standard coupe
200 inline 6 - Pertronix ignition, Flamethrower Coil, K&N, Clifford Perf. 6 into 2 headers, Holley carb, three row radiator

96 GT Convertible
Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, B&M Ripper
K&N, removed air silencer, Tokico non-adjustable struts/ shocks (more to come)
Next up: 3:73's and side exhaust
www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?258

Stefan · 08-24-2000, 05:09 PM

Ok, here's the scoop. Some large bills of mine are going to be paid off in the next few months which will start freeing up some fun money for me. Can you guys help guide me to the right mods? I've been keeping a tight ear to this board so I have a general idea of what works but I am not confident in making my own decision here. You can look at my sig to see what has been done so far (the 3:73's are a definate mod and the side exhaust kit is from Borla).

That being said, the car will remain a daily driver so we're not talking a balls out strip car here. I know plans always change when the thirst for speed comes into the picture but this car is first and formost a daily driver (I'll tear the hell out of a Cobra later down the road). Am I right that on the 4.6's the high flow H pipes are better for lower end torque and the X's are for upper end HP? If so, consider an H pipe part of the to do list.

Daily driver (car has 63,000 miles)
looking for around 300 RWHP.
What do I do? Build me a combo.

Sorry if this seems vague and let me know any other info I can provide

Thanks in advance for the help.

Stefan

------------------
66 Standard coupe
200 inline 6 - Pertronix ignition, Flamethrower Coil, K&N, Clifford Perf. 6 into 2 headers, Holley carb, three row radiator

96 GT Convertible
Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, B&M Ripper
K&N, removed air silencer, Tokico non-adjustable struts/ shocks (more to come)
Next up: 3:73's and side exhaust
www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?258

cravnpup · 08-24-2000, 09:29 PM

If you have the cash, I would say 99 heads and a motorsport intake are a must. the 96-98 heads are very restrictive, and will limit the power potential of your 4.6. If these are too expensive. Go for Long Tube headers + H-pipe + Catback. Then you can go to the intake and fuel side of things with a larger MAF, Larger TB, 155 lph fuel pump, 24# injectors, a fuel pressure regulator, an EEC chip, and MSD ignition. This setup should get you close to or better than 300rwhp as long as you include the 99 heads and intake... Otherwise you're looking at about 240rwhp. Just remember that when doing the fuel system you have to calibrate it for the larger injectors. This means retuning the EEC or the MAF (EEC is better). If this is not enough you could always opt for a blower. All of the above should be suitable for the daily driver... Then if you are looking for just better acceleration without a ton of engine mods there are plenty of things to do in this area. You just need to decide on a plan of action and go with it...

------------------
2000 GT Conv. 5speed
Triple Black
Current Mods: K&N, Mobile 1
Upcoming Mods: BBK Longtubes, BBK H-pipe w/cats, MagnaFlow Cat-Back, and much much more

Stefan · 08-25-2000, 11:01 AM

Sorry, just tryin' to bring it to the top again.

Stefan

King Snake · 08-25-2000, 11:20 AM

How about a cold air intake kit and underdrive pulleys?

------------------
'97 Cobra, K&N, Rio Red

Hammer · 08-25-2000, 12:58 PM

99/00 or FMS heads with FMS intake is a great route. (I intend to do the same when cash flow permits)
Another possible route is forced induction...
Depending on how much cash you have to spend, the FMS Roots style blower\intake might be an option. Its designed to bolt right on in place of the stock intake, how it might work with the FMS heads would be a good question for an SVO rep as I believe a special computer chip is required for both the SVO heads and the blower.

Another forced induction alternative (for a LOT less money) would be my favorite Nitrous Kit, Zex.

Although I don't think you'll hit 300 RWHP with the small 75 shot, it does give you a nice boost with the safest nitrous setup I've seen yet.

Hope this helps...

------------------
"The Yellowjacket"
1998 Mustang GT
13.97@103
"Traction Impaired" or "Nitto Needy"

"They think they can make fuel from horse manure.... Now, I don't know if your car will be able to get 30 miles to the gallon, but it's sure gonna put a stop to siphoning."
- Billie Holliday

Stefan · 08-25-2000, 01:43 PM

Thanks Hammer. I was pretty interested in your ZEX install a few months ago. Can you see any problems with me adding that 75 hp shot system to my stock 63,000 engine? A 75 hp shot should be safe enough but I want to make sure. Wasn't it like $500 or so for the whole package? When I can afford the 99-2000 heads and intake I am definately going to do it. King Snake mentioned a cold air intake and pulleys. The pulleys are on the list now, but would the cold air induction be worth it initially? As part of a larger picture I am sure it would help, but could money be better spent on something else first?

Keep the info comin' and thanks everybody. I'm getting this narrowed down little by little.

Stefan

------------------
66 Standard coupe
200 inline 6 - Pertronix ignition, Flamethrower Coil, K&N, Clifford Perf. 6 into 2 headers, Holley carb, three row radiator

96 GT Convertible
Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, B&M Ripper
K&N, removed air silencer, Tokico non-adjustable struts/ shocks (more to come)
Next up: 3:73's and side exhaust
www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?258

George98GT · 08-25-2000, 02:12 PM

FMS heads and intake will give you 70hp right off the bat with a s-trim Vortech and 36# injectors you be over goal of 300rwhp and still be drive able And don't forget to up your rearend to 3.73 or 4.10

Hammer · 08-25-2000, 02:48 PM

On a 63,000 mile engine, you'll want to make darn sure you are running perfectly tuned, and be sure to gap your plugs correctly.

Any forced induction on a motor that needs a rebuild is a recipe for disaster.
However, if the engine runs well, you should be fine.

The system was around 500 dollars, and more info can be found at www.zex.com.

A cold air kit should really be purchased at the same time as an aftermarket MAF.

The larger MAF and cold air kit compliment each other and improve 2 major things:

1. If you live in the Heat of Dallas like I do...100 every day... Your intake charge will run cooler longer, even though the temp will eventually even out.

2. On nice cool nights, you will be able to feel a small difference in get-up-n-go.
(Guesstimate of 5-7 hp with both the MAF and Cold Air combined)

The price I paid for my Roush kit ($225) is too much, if you can get a good deal on one, I would grab it with another MAF.

------------------
"The Yellowjacket"
1998 Mustang GT
13.97@103
"Traction Impaired" or "Nitto Needy"

"They think they can make fuel from horse manure.... Now, I don't know if your car will be able to get 30 miles to the gallon, but it's sure gonna put a stop to siphoning."
- Billie Holliday

Stefan · 08-27-2000, 08:40 PM

I love it, people helping to spend my hard earned money. Everyone's input has been helpful. I am just trying to avoid going a certain route with a bolt on and then not knowing what other parts need to go along with it to complete the package. So from what I gather from everyone it's going to be a fartpipe and stickers. Thanks and goodnight! No, seriously, you guys have been a big help. I'll just start saving and start with the 99-2000 heads and intake. I think that would give me a good foundation.

Stefan

------------------
66 Standard coupe
200 inline 6 - Pertronix ignition, Flamethrower Coil, K&N, Clifford Perf. 6 into 2 headers, Holley carb, three row radiator

96 GT Convertible
Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, B&M Ripper
K&N, removed air silencer, Tokico non-adjustable struts/ shocks (more to come)
Next up: 3:73's and side exhaust
www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?258

cravnpup · 08-28-2000, 08:16 AM

You might want to give steeda a call (954) 960-0774, they will tell you everything you need to know about the heads/intake installation. You'll probably have to recalibrate your fuel system for the increase flow of the heads/intake. It shouldn't be too expensive, but it is money well spent because it will provide a solid base for future mods...

------------------
2000 GT Conv. 5speed
Triple Black
Current Mods: K&N, Mobile 1
Upcoming Mods: BBK Longtubes, BBK H-pipe w/cats, MagnaFlow Cat-Back, and much much more

Stefan · 08-28-2000, 08:29 AM

Cool.

------------------
66 Standard coupe
200 inline 6 - Pertronix ignition, Flamethrower Coil, K&N, Clifford Perf. 6 into 2 headers, Holley carb, three row radiator

96 GT Convertible
Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, B&M Ripper
K&N, removed air silencer, Tokico non-adjustable struts/ shocks (more to come)
Next up: 3:73's and side exhaust
www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?258

08-24-2000, 05:09 PM	#3
Stefan Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Manhattan, KS 66502 Posts: 599	A path to follow (long) Ok, here's the scoop. Some large bills of mine are going to be paid off in the next few months which will start freeing up some fun money for me. Can you guys help guide me to the right mods? I've been keeping a tight ear to this board so I have a general idea of what works but I am not confident in making my own decision here. You can look at my sig to see what has been done so far (the 3:73's are a definate mod and the side exhaust kit is from Borla). That being said, the car will remain a daily driver so we're not talking a balls out strip car here. I know plans always change when the thirst for speed comes into the picture but this car is first and formost a daily driver (I'll tear the hell out of a Cobra later down the road). Am I right that on the 4.6's the high flow H pipes are better for lower end torque and the X's are for upper end HP? If so, consider an H pipe part of the to do list. Daily driver (car has 63,000 miles) looking for around 300 RWHP. What do I do? Build me a combo. Sorry if this seems vague and let me know any other info I can provide Thanks in advance for the help. Stefan ------------------ 66 Standard coupe 200 inline 6 - Pertronix ignition, Flamethrower Coil, K&N, Clifford Perf. 6 into 2 headers, Holley carb, three row radiator 96 GT Convertible Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, B&M Ripper K&N, removed air silencer, Tokico non-adjustable struts/ shocks (more to come) Next up: 3:73's and side exhaust www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?258

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07-24-2000, 09:32 AM	#1
Stefan Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Manhattan, KS 66502 Posts: 599	Damn, how do you guys learn all this S**T? Thanks for the info, there is a logical pattern there (just what I wanted). I want to avoid just buying bolt ons that brag about horsepower and go for the combo that works from all the separate pieces. Ballpark figures here, what is a rough cost (all parts and labor figured) for the 99-2000 heads and intake swap? This seems like a logical step as they are a direct bolt on. What can be done for just pure acceleration? I think I want more than that but I'm just curious. Thanks for the thought that went into your response Cravnpup. Any others want to pipe in? I'm still on a budget, but open to all possibilities. Stefan ------------------ 66 Standard coupe 200 inline 6 - Pertronix ignition, Flamethrower Coil, K&N, Clifford Perf. 6 into 2 headers, Holley carb, three row radiator 96 GT Convertible Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, B&M Ripper K&N, removed air silencer, Tokico non-adjustable struts/ shocks (more to come) Next up: 3:73's and side exhaust www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?258

07-24-2000, 09:39 AM	#2
Stefan Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Manhattan, KS 66502 Posts: 599	That was wierd, my post ended up at the bottom of the list after I responded to Cravnpup's input. Just wanted to bring it to the top again, so nobody missed it. Stefan ------------------ 66 Standard coupe 200 inline 6 - Pertronix ignition, Flamethrower Coil, K&N, Clifford Perf. 6 into 2 headers, Holley carb, three row radiator 96 GT Convertible Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, B&M Ripper K&N, removed air silencer, Tokico non-adjustable struts/ shocks (more to come) Next up: 3:73's and side exhaust www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?258

08-24-2000, 09:29 PM	#4
cravnpup Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Torrington, CT, USA Posts: 145	If you have the cash, I would say 99 heads and a motorsport intake are a must. the 96-98 heads are very restrictive, and will limit the power potential of your 4.6. If these are too expensive. Go for Long Tube headers + H-pipe + Catback. Then you can go to the intake and fuel side of things with a larger MAF, Larger TB, 155 lph fuel pump, 24# injectors, a fuel pressure regulator, an EEC chip, and MSD ignition. This setup should get you close to or better than 300rwhp as long as you include the 99 heads and intake... Otherwise you're looking at about 240rwhp. Just remember that when doing the fuel system you have to calibrate it for the larger injectors. This means retuning the EEC or the MAF (EEC is better). If this is not enough you could always opt for a blower. All of the above should be suitable for the daily driver... Then if you are looking for just better acceleration without a ton of engine mods there are plenty of things to do in this area. You just need to decide on a plan of action and go with it... ------------------ 2000 GT Conv. 5speed Triple Black Current Mods: K&N, Mobile 1 Upcoming Mods: BBK Longtubes, BBK H-pipe w/cats, MagnaFlow Cat-Back, and much much more

08-25-2000, 11:01 AM	#5
Stefan Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Manhattan, KS 66502 Posts: 599	Sorry, just tryin' to bring it to the top again. Stefan

08-25-2000, 11:20 AM	#6
King Snake Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Warner Robins, GA, USA Posts: 210	How about a cold air intake kit and underdrive pulleys? ------------------ '97 Cobra, K&N, Rio Red

08-25-2000, 12:58 PM	#7
Hammer AKA "Dr. Evil" Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: South Fork Ranch Posts: 1,721	99/00 or FMS heads with FMS intake is a great route. (I intend to do the same when cash flow permits) Another possible route is forced induction... Depending on how much cash you have to spend, the FMS Roots style blower\intake might be an option. Its designed to bolt right on in place of the stock intake, how it might work with the FMS heads would be a good question for an SVO rep as I believe a special computer chip is required for both the SVO heads and the blower. Another forced induction alternative (for a LOT less money) would be my favorite Nitrous Kit, Zex. Although I don't think you'll hit 300 RWHP with the small 75 shot, it does give you a nice boost with the safest nitrous setup I've seen yet. Hope this helps... ------------------ "The Yellowjacket" 1998 Mustang GT 13.97@103 "Traction Impaired" or "Nitto Needy" "They think they can make fuel from horse manure.... Now, I don't know if your car will be able to get 30 miles to the gallon, but it's sure gonna put a stop to siphoning." - Billie Holliday

08-25-2000, 01:43 PM	#8
Stefan Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Manhattan, KS 66502 Posts: 599	Thanks Hammer. I was pretty interested in your ZEX install a few months ago. Can you see any problems with me adding that 75 hp shot system to my stock 63,000 engine? A 75 hp shot should be safe enough but I want to make sure. Wasn't it like $500 or so for the whole package? When I can afford the 99-2000 heads and intake I am definately going to do it. King Snake mentioned a cold air intake and pulleys. The pulleys are on the list now, but would the cold air induction be worth it initially? As part of a larger picture I am sure it would help, but could money be better spent on something else first? Keep the info comin' and thanks everybody. I'm getting this narrowed down little by little. Stefan ------------------ 66 Standard coupe 200 inline 6 - Pertronix ignition, Flamethrower Coil, K&N, Clifford Perf. 6 into 2 headers, Holley carb, three row radiator 96 GT Convertible Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, B&M Ripper K&N, removed air silencer, Tokico non-adjustable struts/ shocks (more to come) Next up: 3:73's and side exhaust www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?258

08-25-2000, 02:12 PM	#9
George98GT Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: St Paul, MN Posts: 5	FMS heads and intake will give you 70hp right off the bat with a s-trim Vortech and 36# injectors you be over goal of 300rwhp and still be drive able And don't forget to up your rearend to 3.73 or 4.10

08-25-2000, 02:48 PM	#10
Hammer AKA "Dr. Evil" Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: South Fork Ranch Posts: 1,721	On a 63,000 mile engine, you'll want to make darn sure you are running perfectly tuned, and be sure to gap your plugs correctly. Any forced induction on a motor that needs a rebuild is a recipe for disaster. However, if the engine runs well, you should be fine. The system was around 500 dollars, and more info can be found at www.zex.com. A cold air kit should really be purchased at the same time as an aftermarket MAF. The larger MAF and cold air kit compliment each other and improve 2 major things: 1. If you live in the Heat of Dallas like I do...100 every day... Your intake charge will run cooler longer, even though the temp will eventually even out. 2. On nice cool nights, you will be able to feel a small difference in get-up-n-go. (Guesstimate of 5-7 hp with both the MAF and Cold Air combined) The price I paid for my Roush kit ($225) is too much, if you can get a good deal on one, I would grab it with another MAF. ------------------ "The Yellowjacket" 1998 Mustang GT 13.97@103 "Traction Impaired" or "Nitto Needy" "They think they can make fuel from horse manure.... Now, I don't know if your car will be able to get 30 miles to the gallon, but it's sure gonna put a stop to siphoning." - Billie Holliday

08-27-2000, 08:40 PM	#11
Stefan Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Manhattan, KS 66502 Posts: 599	I love it, people helping to spend my hard earned money. Everyone's input has been helpful. I am just trying to avoid going a certain route with a bolt on and then not knowing what other parts need to go along with it to complete the package. So from what I gather from everyone it's going to be a fartpipe and stickers. Thanks and goodnight! No, seriously, you guys have been a big help. I'll just start saving and start with the 99-2000 heads and intake. I think that would give me a good foundation. Stefan ------------------ 66 Standard coupe 200 inline 6 - Pertronix ignition, Flamethrower Coil, K&N, Clifford Perf. 6 into 2 headers, Holley carb, three row radiator 96 GT Convertible Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, B&M Ripper K&N, removed air silencer, Tokico non-adjustable struts/ shocks (more to come) Next up: 3:73's and side exhaust www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?258

08-28-2000, 08:16 AM	#12
cravnpup Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Torrington, CT, USA Posts: 145	You might want to give steeda a call (954) 960-0774, they will tell you everything you need to know about the heads/intake installation. You'll probably have to recalibrate your fuel system for the increase flow of the heads/intake. It shouldn't be too expensive, but it is money well spent because it will provide a solid base for future mods... ------------------ 2000 GT Conv. 5speed Triple Black Current Mods: K&N, Mobile 1 Upcoming Mods: BBK Longtubes, BBK H-pipe w/cats, MagnaFlow Cat-Back, and much much more

08-28-2000, 08:29 AM	#13
Stefan Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Manhattan, KS 66502 Posts: 599	Cool. ------------------ 66 Standard coupe 200 inline 6 - Pertronix ignition, Flamethrower Coil, K&N, Clifford Perf. 6 into 2 headers, Holley carb, three row radiator 96 GT Convertible Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, B&M Ripper K&N, removed air silencer, Tokico non-adjustable struts/ shocks (more to come) Next up: 3:73's and side exhaust www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?258