TFI Module Revelation

[Chevyguy]

I just finished stage 1 of my failed inspection repair. Yesterday I swapped the new wells TFI module in, and replaced the plugs and cleaned out the TB. The plugs looked fine, only about 20k or so on em, kept them for emergency. I found out you have to rotate the dist to remove the TFI, and I had to use that funny ford ignition wrench I got years ago cus the screws were so deep in there.

I fired it back up and forgot to mark the tdc on the balancer, got some chalk and fired it up again. I reset the base timing to a hair under 10 deg up from 8 as it was set, ok I still run 87!

Noticed a more stable idle, and now it pulls MUCH smoother when you lug it down in the 1k to 2k rpm range. The plugs were clean, and the TB was not too dirty either. I thought a TFI would only hard fault and make the motor stall or not run!

Of course this was the original Motorcraft unit with 125K miles, no recall

Best $30 ive spent so far

[PKRWUD]

Glad to hear things are better. That being said, i doubt the TFI had much to do with your improved pulling smoothness. They really are more like a switch than anything else. They either work or they don't. They can alternate from not working to working, but it's rare that they would effect low rpm "smoothness". The 2 degrees of timing, and the plugs, are probably the parts that deserve the credit. Plugs that look good still can have damaged electrodes inside the porcelian (sp?) where you can't see it, yet it has an effect. Honestly, just moving your plug wires while swapping the plugs could cause the effect you mentioned. Either way, I'm happy for you that it's better now!

Take care,
-Chris

[Chevyguy]

Well that's why I kept changing all the plugs even though they looked fine, replaced with the same Motorcraft ASF 42 whatever stock plug, 0.054" gap. I paid extra attention to making sure all the plug boots made good contact. The fms 9 mm wires I have don't snap on really obviously, one wire I actually had to pinch the end tighter to get a better click feel. None of the plugs were black, but any misfiring there would certianly cause an increase in HC emissions. I did use some anti seize on the plug threads this time which probably gave me better ground.

I too thought an Igniton module was go/no go affair to but figured the plugs were not any problem and only 2 deg timing is no big jump. I was beating on the car today and it pulls better up to and past 5000 rpms now. I also changed the PCV screen that looked pretty pluged up! While I was at the dealer trying to describe the screen, a tech in line in front of me said " those are in crown vics below the PCV, when they plug up the motor blows every gasket since it cant breathe"

HMMM I have had a leaky oil pan gasket, and it gets worse when I jump on it, and will get oil on the cats, and smoke. After tonight , no smoke hmm, sounds pretty good to me for $7.00 I would have been pissed if I blew a new pan gasket, still got to change it out, but now know why it started to leak.

One bummer is the O2 sensors would not budge for me today, The 7/8" special O2 sensor socket fits tight on the new Bosh ones, but could not turn the ones on the car even after soaking with PB blaster. I knew I should have pulled them out when the H pipe was on my buddys shop floor!!!!!! Looks like a job for the big red wrench! Or anyone in mass have a stock 86-93 H pipe they want to give away??

[PKRWUD]

Frank-
replacing the PCV filter in the intake is probably the most ignored suggestion I give to people. No one ever believes it's important. Oh well. Their loss.

As far as the O2, try heating up the threads with propane first.

Take care,
-Chris

[Mr 5 0]

Good advice all around from PKRWUD.

When I removed my original 02 sensors a few years ago, one side came out like unscrewing a lightbulb but the other side needed much banging and finally a big dose of torch-heat to finally get it out. Almost a one-hour job but necessary.

The PVC is something much overlooked but well worth the $7.00. I replaced my unit some time ago and keep it clean with bi-annual checks.

You should probably consider new wires, soon. I use Taylor Spiral-Pro's which have low resistance and excellent boot grip. Come in colors, too. About $65.

[86GT]

Definitely do the PCV change, very overlooked and well worth it. Also I find that no matter what, even using anti-seize on the 02 sensor they'll always need to be heated up or banged on to get them out.

Anyone know where to get the rubber grommet the PCV valve sits in? My local dealer doesn't have a clue.

[Chevyguy]

Ford part#'s can be tricky to unearth. I go to a local dealer at lunch and often there are tecs waiting for parts there sometimes they help translate to Ford for me! It took me three trys to get the rubber inner boot for my shifter, it bolts to the floor not the trans!!, but the part that "bolts to the trans" was the right one, oh man I got the leather boot, some other weird one, and the little one that clips to the shifter B4 the right one.

The grommet is a valid part#, maybe I can find my slip at home for you.