"10sec street stang" ready for shortblock. Need suggestions!

Severisth · 08-19-2001, 10:40 PM

I have an 88 GT that I am building to be a 10sec street car.

So far, it has the following.

Fuel: 240lph fuel pump.
Engine: Completely stock between the K&N and the H-pipe.
Cooling: Aluminum radiator, electric fans.
Chassis: Subframes, strut tower brace, k-member brace.
Exhaust: Offroad H-pipe, 2 chamber Flowmasters.
Driveline: TKO 5-speed, alum driveshaft, 31 spline axles, 3.55 gears, detroit locker.
Suspension: Panhard bar.

I intend to plant every bit of power the engine makes. If I didn't have to rebuild the engine now (bad rings), I would have finished out the suspension with adjustable shocks and struts, 1.5" lowering springs, and the Maximum Motorsports torque arm setup. I'll do mini-tubs if I have to.

With that in mind, I figure I can pull high 10's with 450-500rwhp after I do weight reduction (I don't see why I couldn't get 2800 w/driver from the current 3200lbs).

So, the goal is 450-500 rwhp on a budget of 500-1000/month looking for high reliability. I love all forms of induction, forced or NA. I want to be driving the car until it is finished, which means I am going to put all the stock pieces back on the new shortblock until I can budget in better ones.

I am leaning towards a setup which will run 11's naturally aspirated and hit 10's on the juice. I am open to different ideas for reaching the 10sec zone.

With all of this in mind, what short block would you go with?

------------------

WADS56 · 08-19-2001, 11:25 PM

There are many ways that you can reach your goal, and It sounds like you know what it takes to get a car into the 10's. So All I am going to say is start off with a block that can handle the power that you want. Stock blocks can handle 10 second runs, but after that your on borrowed time. Don't go cheap on blocks!!! trust me... if you get your car into the 10's it still won't be fast enough. Get it done and over with so WHEN you want to go faster you won't give yourself a stroke wondering if the block will let go. My finger nails have been missing for a year now because of the stress.

------------------
NA 347 W/ stage 2 Canfield heads, out of the box Victor 5.0 intake, solid roller cam, Aeromotive fuel system.
MY CAR http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?1288

Severisth · 08-25-2001, 07:17 PM

Thanks for the great reply. Good point about wanting to go faster!

Thing is though, I want a 302 or maybe a 331; which seems to max out at around 400hp N/A. I planned on running a 200 shot on top of this, so the only reason to go with a better shortblock than the B50 Sportsman is if there is a safe way to go faster. Can you run a 300 or larger shot on a built 302? That would be nearly doubling the power!

exgmguy · 08-26-2001, 07:31 AM

With a budget in mind I would do the Bullet 306. If you get the car to 2800 lbs, and build a stout street 306, top it off with a 150 shot and you can hit 10's if you can make the car leave.

Generally a bare minimum of a 120 mph trap speed is required to hit a 10.

------------------
1988 Mustang GT
11.8 @ 123 (7/14/01)
1992 BadAzz Wrangler
1993 Explorer

See my car at: www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?179

08-19-2001, 10:40 PM	#1
Severisth Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Posts: 31	"10sec street stang" ready for shortblock. Need suggestions! I have an 88 GT that I am building to be a 10sec street car. So far, it has the following. Fuel: 240lph fuel pump. Engine: Completely stock between the K&N and the H-pipe. Cooling: Aluminum radiator, electric fans. Chassis: Subframes, strut tower brace, k-member brace. Exhaust: Offroad H-pipe, 2 chamber Flowmasters. Driveline: TKO 5-speed, alum driveshaft, 31 spline axles, 3.55 gears, detroit locker. Suspension: Panhard bar. I intend to plant every bit of power the engine makes. If I didn't have to rebuild the engine now (bad rings), I would have finished out the suspension with adjustable shocks and struts, 1.5" lowering springs, and the Maximum Motorsports torque arm setup. I'll do mini-tubs if I have to. With that in mind, I figure I can pull high 10's with 450-500rwhp after I do weight reduction (I don't see why I couldn't get 2800 w/driver from the current 3200lbs). So, the goal is 450-500 rwhp on a budget of 500-1000/month looking for high reliability. I love all forms of induction, forced or NA. I want to be driving the car until it is finished, which means I am going to put all the stock pieces back on the new shortblock until I can budget in better ones. I am leaning towards a setup which will run 11's naturally aspirated and hit 10's on the juice. I am open to different ideas for reaching the 10sec zone. With all of this in mind, what short block would you go with? ------------------

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08-19-2001, 11:25 PM	#2
WADS56 gear banger Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: CHICAGO Posts: 1,144	There are many ways that you can reach your goal, and It sounds like you know what it takes to get a car into the 10's. So All I am going to say is start off with a block that can handle the power that you want. Stock blocks can handle 10 second runs, but after that your on borrowed time. Don't go cheap on blocks!!! trust me... if you get your car into the 10's it still won't be fast enough. Get it done and over with so WHEN you want to go faster you won't give yourself a stroke wondering if the block will let go. My finger nails have been missing for a year now because of the stress. ------------------ NA 347 W/ stage 2 Canfield heads, out of the box Victor 5.0 intake, solid roller cam, Aeromotive fuel system. MY CAR http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?1288

08-25-2001, 07:17 PM	#3
Severisth Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Posts: 31	Thanks for the great reply. Good point about wanting to go faster! Thing is though, I want a 302 or maybe a 331; which seems to max out at around 400hp N/A. I planned on running a 200 shot on top of this, so the only reason to go with a better shortblock than the B50 Sportsman is if there is a safe way to go faster. Can you run a 300 or larger shot on a built 302? That would be nearly doubling the power!

08-26-2001, 07:31 AM	#4
exgmguy Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Utica, Michigan Posts: 2,631	With a budget in mind I would do the Bullet 306. If you get the car to 2800 lbs, and build a stout street 306, top it off with a 150 shot and you can hit 10's if you can make the car leave. Generally a bare minimum of a 120 mph trap speed is required to hit a 10. ------------------ 1988 Mustang GT 11.8 @ 123 (7/14/01) 1992 BadAzz Wrangler 1993 Explorer See my car at: www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?179